Ho Shell's that fit?

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Good Night/ Morning to all,
I need help on getting the right chassis for 2 shell’s I have manucatured by " Model Power"
1st, I have an Ho emd E8/9 shell made by Model Power and I want to add a good running chassis for the shell. Problem is, I kind of guess what chassis it might fit. I was looking at P2K E8/-9 Ffor a good chassis, but I don’t know if it would fit correctly.

2nd. Same ordeal, I have a “Model Power” F2B Dummy. I was going to place the shell on a Atherarns F Unit chassis, But then I noticed that the shell is a couple of inches longer than the Athearns chassis. Now I feel like a dummy because I’m stuck with a dummy. I particular don’t do dummies. If it could run with power, then why not. I got both these item’s mentioned for the shell.
Could someone please tell me what “smooth running” chassis would fit the F2B. I didn’t do the measurments of the F2B because I just got it. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
A Train

2

A good running chassis will cost more than a whole good running locomotive.

You can get a P2K E8 and FB2 models for a very reasonable price from Trainworld and other sources.

The MP E9 and FA/FB models were made by Roco. ConCor later aquired several of the models in the line.

3

ATrain,

Regarding your 4 axle unit. I think you have an “Alco FB2”. These units were just a little longer than the EMD F-units. This is why you’re seeing the discrepancy. Athearn doesn’t offer the Alco F units, just the EMD versions.

I’m in a similar situation in that I have a Rivorossi E8 body that’s in perfect shape. Problem is that in doing my research, I could easily get P2K E units for under $50 on Ebay. The chassis is adaptable, but P2K has the superior body detailing, so I don’t want to wind up with a spare P2K shell that looks far superior to the Rivorossi shell.

Not trying to discourage you, but IMHO Nigel is correct in that it’s cheaper to get an entire P2K locomotive instead of just trying to get a chassis. If you still want an E unit for that chassis, go to Ebay and type in Proto 2000 E7. (Here’s an Ebay tip: Don’t type in P2K E8, as these are still going for $60 to $90) If you’re patient, you’ll snag an E7 “new” for about $55 or less as scores of them keep showing up.

In my case, I’ve decided to set my E8 shell aside and if use it for airbru***esting as well as body parts (if needed).

Hope this helps.

4

Ok, but I would have to get the chassis because P2K doesn’t make the road name that I have a shell for. It’s a Burlington Northern shell. Very Nice detail. Thanks for the tip on “EMD F UNITS” and “Alco F2” .

5

If you like building kits, than Hobbytown of Boston makes some diesel drive kits that will fit both of your engines.
http://bearlocomo.zoovy.com/category/hobbytown_kits/
I haven’t built one, but I’ve heard that these are really tough diesels that will last a long time. (tough as in powerful and reliable, not difficult)

6

Thanks for the tip. The kind I’ve been looking for.

7

Occasionally you will see just a chassis for certain loco’s on E-Bay and they will go rather cheaply. I looked at those Hobbytown drives and they appear to only be powered at one end and are rather expensive. I have one for a SD24 that I was going to put under a ConCor shell before Atlas released their SD24, now as you might imagine the project has been shelved.

Bob DeWoody

8

Your right about thoes hobbytown kits. All I need to know is what chassis would fit the shell of and F2 A or B. Should I just get a Model Power F2A? I don’t really trust Model Power locos. How are the FA2 on the market today?

9

First; Bob is incorrect about the Hobbytown drives, all wheels are powered.

Above, it was determined that you have a FA2, not a F2a. They are very different, like a Ford Explorer vs a Chevy Suburban.

Model Power has not imported a model of the Alco FA2 in well over a decade. ConCor has the tooling.

The Life Like P2K FA2 is a very good model, infinitely superior to the model Model Power imported from Austria, made by Roco.