Ho track laying HELIX & Magnetic coupling

Been working diligently on a track plan and have already determined most of my stock works on 22” radius curves. Though some don’t and I intend to run a 26” min. Main line basically a dog bone loop setup. And a 22” min. for the working tracks. Part of my testing rolling stock and engines has had me start to build a Helix to service the mining branch line. To make sure i am ok with the 2.5% grade. It all seems fine even with a 8.5” long tank car i have no intention of running on that track.

  1. One of the things i have been reading and seeing is the idea of leaving a small say 1/32” gap in between the rails at unsoldered joints every 6-9 feet. To allow for thermal expansion. Would this also be a good idea in the helix or will the fact that the track is say tacked ever 6” but not glued allow for this and i should not worry and i am safest to solder all the joints in it?


2). When installing magnets under the track for decoupling do i need to first install 6” (enough track for my longest cars to be straight) after the switch before locating my magnetic pad?

Thanks for any input your experience can provide.

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I solder every joint in my helix and I glue the track down with permanent adhesive caulk.

Radii are 37.5" and 40".

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when straight, the track has no where to go except sideways which isn’t so much of an issue on a curve. how much would the radius increase if the circumference of the track increased by 0.05 - 0.1"?

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Thank you both. And may i say wow that’s a very impressive looking helix.

And thats a great point regarding the fact that it wont matter on a curve. Ill get the soldering iron heating up.

Thanks

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I too soldered the joints in my helix with no problems in 13 years. That said, my basement is finished, insulated walls, dropped ceiling and dehumidifier in summer months. Yearly temps vary from 68 to 74.

Regards, Chris

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