Well, I got 3 used HO locos and a dozen freight cars used. And the price was really low, as I keep telling my husband[:D] The track that came with them is from Lifeline, and had 1973 price tags “29 cents at Boscovs” … it is total junk! And we are having some derailments. I have added weight to the freight cars but there are still issue…
I am thinking about some replacement tracks, and looking for brand suggestions. Any comments?
Thanks, Claire
Claire,
First off, [#welcome] to the forum! I’d suggest looking into Atlas sectional track or flextrack as a first step. It might also help to sketch out some idea of what you want your layout to look like to get an idea of what will work in your given space. There are others here on the forum that are much more knowledgeable and will give you plenty of advice to get you on your way to creating your railroad empire.
Don Z.
[#welcome] Claire
Atlas is a good solid choice with lots of options with their track, the difference of opinions willl most likely come from the choice of switches and switch manufactures.
It all depends on your goals really , which werent stated, for basic runing and reliability I have had no problems with my atlas track.
I would also venture out on a limb and say that track reliability is 90% how well its laid down… cheap track can provide hours of faultless entertainment, and the most expensive can cause hours of frustration. Take time laying it down, aligning and ensuring smooth running before making it permanent(semi permanent)
Have fun & be safe,
Karl.
My goal is to amuse the 3-year-old!
I was looking a few other places… 1) am I supposed to replace the little connectors when I hook the track together?
2) Do you suggest soldering the tracks?
3) Should I need weights in the Bachmann freight cars, to prevent derail?
Welcome to the active part of the forums!
I have built a “grandkid’s Christmas” layout with Atlas snap-track, have laid just about every kind of flex track available (including fiber-tie Atlas when that was state of the art) and have hand-laid track.
It’s all in the installation!
As long as the curves are smooth and the tangents are straight, operation can approach perfection. The only little “extra” I practice is to de-burr EVERY rail end, and cut a little bevel on the flange side of the railhead at every joint. I have done this with an emory board as well as with files. If you can run a finger along the railhead and it doesn’t snag, top or inside edge, wheels should track properly.
Others will tell you to solder (or not solder) rail joints. There are a number of ways to assure that electricity is conducted from one rail to another; all of them work, but the wholly reliable ones require soldering, either wires to the rails or the rail ends themselves.
Life-like track has one extra problem. It has to be pushed into absolute alignment - listen for the “snap” as it locks. Deburring the rail ends works for it, too - I use some (acquired at yard sales) for setting up test grades and such.
Happy tracklaying, and smooth operating.
Chuck
If you buy atlas track, which I would suggest you do. You should also pick up a couple packs of rail joiners. Personally I solder my joints, that way i can close the gaps completely and make them stay closed. But if the layout isnt in a climate controlled place you should probably leaven them unsoldered with gaps built in to allow for expansion and contraction. The bachmann cars may or may not need weight, but if you have cheap engines as well you might want to keep them light since they dont roll very well to begin with.
Happy Railroading.
IF the track is older, it might be brass. Brass corrodes easily and must be cleaned often.
I don’t believe I’m going to say this…if you are not gluing down or otherwise securing the track, you might be better off going with one of the snap together section tracks with the built in roadbeds, like EZ track.
EZ track sounds like a good option Chip, now the goals have been established (entertaining a 3 yr old) it will make a good solid connection and wont fall apart everytime the little one touches it or bumps it. It will also be more robust for setup and teardown. There is also a fairly good selection of track pieces that I have seen.
note: the connectors are pretty much non removable ( at least they are on the EZ Track I have laying around somewhere from a spectrum set ) so replacement shouldnt be a regular issue. But a packet of spares should still be aquired for emergency repairs.
Keep us posted.
Have fun & be safe,
Karl.