I’m new to the hobby and was in a local hobby shop and was bewildered at the variety of tracks. Which is the best Atlas flex track, Bachman ez track or lifelike track. The newer tracks have road beds attached and snap together. I do not have big plans but would like to put together a small layout that can grow with time. Any advice as to which is the best way to go. I have some old atlas style track and switches I pick up from a flee market but I’m not commited to it.
Thanks Gary
For the greatest flexibility go with conventional track, Atlas, Peco or whatever, they are all pretty much interchangagle.
For ease of use, go with the other stuff. However, the pieces are limited, and can’t be mixed between brands.
Nick
First of all, [#welcome][#welcome][#welcome]
Next, I’d suggest if you have any brass track, to scrap it. It will oxidize, and when it odes, the oxidation will not conduct electricity. The Nickle Silver will oxidize, too, but at least the oxidation will conduct electricity.
As far as type or brand of track, you basically have a choice of 2 routes, you can use a “roadbes included” type, or the snap track/flex track type (without roadbed). The roadbed track is not interchangeable with different brands. Some brands will detach from the roadbed, and will then be interchangeable with other brands. Which brings us to…
Code size of the rail is basically the height (thickness) of the rail in thousandths of an inch. Thus, code 100 is .100" high, code 83 is .083", and you also have code 70 and 55. The code 100 represents rail that is slightly larger than anything ever used in North America (about 160 pounds per yard of prototype rail). The code 83, which is becoming very popular, represents 132 lb./yard, which is very common mainline size rail. The code 70 equates to about 90-110 lb./yard, commonly seen in yards and sidings, or mainline rail in bygone days. Code 55 equals about 60-75 lb./yard rail, which is rare today, but would have been yard/siding rail in the '50’s, or mainline rail around turn of the century through the '20’s. There are companies that make code 40 rail, but not HO track, you would have to handlay the track. That size would relate to about 35-50 lb./yard rail, used in the 1850’s-1890’s.
Personally, I am using all 4 (but not code 40) on my layout for comparison and demonstration purposes since mine is a portable layout for public display. Plus, I like the variation, and when using smaller rail on a siding, you could impose an operating restriction such as “no heavy cars or locomotives on ‘x’ track”. That may sound restricting, and it is, but that’s part of the fun. I would suggest for a beginner, use either code 100 or 83, and get into m
[#ditto] what he said …i’ve found that nickel silver flex track on cork roadbed is the most versatile track …Atlas flex track is good track but if you are into saving money, model power makes a good track … it’s just stiffer than atlas but will yield the same results…there is a store in MRR magazine called “Trainworld” that usually has the best deals on a 100 count box of 3’ flex track…their cork road bed is reasonable too…all you have to do is call in the order …have the stock numbers from their MRR advertisment page available for the operator that takes the order because train world doesn’t look up stock numbers or help you find stuff you’re looking for…chuck