Hobbies that move

Classic Toy Trains Forum
1

There basically are 3 types of hobbies:

  1. Those that just sit there.

  2. Those that you move manually.

  3. Those that move under their own power.

Examples of #1 are coins, stamps, and static model boats and cars.

Examples of #2 are Brio trains, classic cars (you can open the hood or trunk and pu***hem around if the wheels rotate), and Barbie and other dolls that can bend in various positions.

Examples of #3 are model trains and action accessories, operating in 3 dimensions; 4 if you include “time.” Also, computer animation games (3-d Simulations) and R/C boats and planes.

Another example of #3 are model rockets that you launch into the stratosphere and slot cars that you race.

(A 4th type of hobby would be things that move and think: dogs, cats, possibly an “intelligent” robot etc.)

People who play with toy trains are esp. drawn to movement, whereas people in HO and N often have inanimate industries and accessories that either don’t move or you move by hand.

Hobbies that move stimulate more sensory perceptions than do stationary hobbies: tactile and auditory, as well as visual; and if you throw in some smoke, olifactory.

Things that move are certainly the most interesting of the hobbies. If you can incorporate R/C boats and planes and computer graphics on your toy train layout, then you’ve really got movement.

Some examples I’ve seen: motorized boats on real water, drive-in motion picture theater using miniature TV hooked up to a VCR and moving cars using a german system of magnets with hidden wires.

The future of the hobby, IMO will continue to be in movement. And, microelectronics and robotics will be part of most layouts by 2020.

dav

2

Let’s not forget Erector sets! I like to integrate things I build with mine (the classic, pre-60’s sets) into my layouts.

3

#1 hobby, my girlfriend… She just sits there and… ouch! I got hit by something…
#2 to move manually which has to be my old car…
#3 Those that move by themselves… That are the bits you need when repairing a locomotive. Everything gets lost and isn’t there anymore where you put it… I think I have a black hole under my layout.

4

My son [28] loves trains but no where to build a layout. He races radio controled cars. Got one with nitrous. For him, those that move; him working radar. Those that don’t move; druggie that wants to “bow up”. Whack, there goes another druggie hit across the knees with paton.

5

For us on the west coast everything falls into category #3 when the earth shakes.[(-D]

6

dougdagrump, that is the best one yet. [:D]

7

My Grand National moves down the 1/4 about in 9 seconds…[}:)]

8

I have to second the motion for Erector Sets. They are my other collection outside of Trains.

Here are two of my prized sets. I currently have 11.

9

Yeah, I saw a couple of vintage Gilbert Erector sets at an estate sale last weekend where I was shopping for trains. I didn’t know what a fair price was so I didn’t get them. One of them was the Ferris Wheel set and I would have liked to have had that. Since a Marx set with a Commodore Vanderbilt shell (no motor, just the shell), 551 tender, 553 tanker and 556 caboose was priced at $65, I suspect the Erector sets were probably overpriced too. (That Marx “set” was probably worth closer to $5-$10 in the condition it was in–earlier that week I’d bought similar cars from a local dealer for $4-$6 apiece.) I did spot a “set” of 4-wheel passenger cars. It was actually two Lionels and a Bing. The paint was completely flaked off. Marked at $39. I offered $20 and they took it.

Took me about 5 minutes to get those cars running smoothly when I got them home. :slight_smile: Now I just need to come up with a paint scheme for them.

10

Dave,
What sort of prices were they asking for those sets?

A reasonably complete(all major parts, like the motor, baseplates, and boiler) 8 1/2 Ferris Wheel set can bring anywhere from $50 to $150, depending on the year and condition. Most collectors will give $75 for a mid-1950s 8 1/2, provided that they are able to examine it, and make sure that it is mostly complete. A fully restored 8 1/2, with the parts clipped onto reproduction inserts, and completed down to the last nut and bolt is worth $275-300

11

They were asking between $75 and $90. There were three sets there and I don’t remember what the other two were. Condition was reasonable–if it had been a toy train I probably would have graded them EX+. But I’m not in a position to judge their completeness.

Sounds like their Erector prices were better than most of their train prices. But it wouldn’t surprise me if they ended up having to have another sale next week. I was there a couple of hours after it started, and came back two days later, an hour before it ended, and 66-75% of the stuff was still there.

Thanks for the info, Ben.

12

Dave,
If you are interested, I’d be glad to take a picture of a reasonably complete 8 1/2, and point out the key parts to look for to you.

Also, on condition, look for paint scrapes on the box, damaged parts, and complete labels. Excellent with an Erector set means little to no rust, no major damaged parts, and labels complete aside from small scuffs or tears around the edges. The labels should also all be clean, bright, and clearly legible. Be sure to check the bottom of the box for rust, as this is a big problem.

Just another couple of things to look for. A manual should be present, but, if it’s not, reproductions are readily available. Check the two box latches on the front of the box. They should both be present and operational. There are no reproductions of these available, so, if it’s missing one or both, you have to make them yourself. Check the condition of the motor cord, as it may need to be replaced(a 20 minute job if you are carful). Check the motor gearbox to see if all components are present. Coming off of the worm gear, there should be a shaft on the top and a shaft on the bottom, each with a worm wheel and two pinion gears. More towards the middle of the gearbox, there should be a sliding shaft with a large gear and a small, wide gear. There should also be some sort of shift lever on this shaft. There should be either a notched guard plate on top of the gear box, or a thin metal shaft(the thin metal strap is often broken off, and it’s no big deal if it is).

13

If I could figure out how to post a picture on here, I’d show one of my pride and joy: a mammoth 12 1/2 Erector set from 1958…the one that comes with the sound effects kit.

14

I’ll post it for you, just attche the picture ( jpeg format ) to Chris@CSX-Sucks.com

15

Well…this might qualify for #3 (moves under its own power)

Hey Chris - No freakin’ way this is a 9 second ride…maybe in the 1/8 with a 90 MPH tailwind…(wink).

jd

16

Jim,

I don’t have my 79 Vette anymore. Wish I did ( L-82 350, close ratio 4 speed, FE-7 suspension). I guess I just have to share in my son’s “#3” hobby - his 99 Jeep TJ that he keeps fitting out. It’s not a Corvette, but it’s fun slashing through mud!

17

Dr. J - The Holy Grail? 1967 w/L88. In the meantime…

Marry those two this afternoon GOOD! Not too many seem to last very long anymore…

jd

18

My favorite was my 65 GTO, after doing a few modifications to the engine I couldn’t put gas into the tank fast enuff to keep that thirsty beast going, I swear the carb was the size of a 5 gallon garbage can. Kinda difficult keeping rear tires on too.
Thank goodness it is long gone, at $3+ a gallon, standard pump stuff not the really GOOD stuff, would cost way to much to keep it. [:(]

19

Doug,

I love those old Goats! You’re right about gas, though - premium is through the roof!

Jim, I agree with you about the 67 L-88. I always thought that was the pinnacle for Stingrays! Had a friend that owned a 63 split-window with a 327. Great car and very drivable, paid a little over $3,000 for it brand new! I’d love to drive an L-88, but I couldn’t afford the gas and I like AC too much!

Maybe one day when the kids are through college, I might seek out an old 60s era Vette.

20

Sadly, even today’s “Premium” is about 10 octane points below what these old American Muscle Cars prefer to drink…maybe we should convert them all over to TMCC/DCS, duct tape some rails to the highways, and run 'em on ELECTRIC power…our toy trains just may be the way of the future…! HA!