<><>I’m trying to identify the G Gauge motorized chassis used to motorize this Mr. Rogers Trolley. What I know is the following:
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Brass wheels are 1.275 inches in diameter. Axel to axel wheelbase is 3 inches 2. There are 2 visible brass strips that rub on the back of the brass wheels that serve as power pickups. 3. motor is completly enclosed in the chassis. Worm and gear drive to both sets of wheels 4. Very quiet runner.
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The Trolley is a dead ringer in painting and size that is used on the Mr. Rogers television show.
<>6. The motorized chassis sits under the Trolley seats and is almost invisible. The top of the chassis is slightly rounded in the same plane as the motor inside. I’ve had the chassis apart to lube it (it was bone dry - not surprising cinsidering it sat doing nothing for 10 years).
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The wooden Trolley bodies were purchased from Holgate and the motorized chassis was installed by D.L. Suiters of Pa. They made about 500 (mine is # 486) and each had a label that identified the item.
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I found no identifying information in or on the motorized chassis. I would like to get a spare chassis.
sorry you lost me after you said mr rogers
What do you need to know?
You have identified the manufacturers of the components.
The chassis manufacturer is still around, but last I heard doing work for another big large-scale outfit.
I mean, is it broken, do you need parts, or what?
I would suggest Barry’s Big Trains for repairs, as he is familiar with the manufacturer.
Okay, more info.
Suiters was the assembly point. The motor blocks are MDC.
If yours runs good, it is probably worth a fortune. In all the iterations I have seen and owned of those MDC blocks, not one ran worth a hoot.
I still have 2/3 of one in service under a Model “A” rail truck.
Running only one worm seemed to work.
Since MDC has been sold and the large-scale line allowed to become fairly dormant, the chances of parts for those blocks are little and none.
That doesn’t mean you won’t find any, it just means it might be a little more difficult.
The brass wheels are hard to keep clean. If I recall, the square axle bushings are a problem to get back in the right place, but it’s been a while.
The clips that hold the bottom cover on tend to get quite brittle with age, which is why you will often see any blocks with black tape wrapped around them to keep them together.
One of the locals built an early oil-electric engine, using those blocks (he had convinced himself they were “perfect”), but within a year had put USA blocks under it to get it to function reliably.
TOC
William i am with you on this one, I understodd it but couldn’t offer much.
Rgds ian
Curmudgeon…
<>Thank you for your VERY informative responses to my questions. Who is/was MDC? My example was brand new when I received it - has a total of less than 20 hours on it. Runs like a clock. I noticed the construction of the chassis and concluded it would be a good idea to have another one just in case… Looks like my instincts were right on that idea but that I may need to use another mfg chassis instead of trying to get another like the original. Will probably use an LGB if I can find something suitable. I looked but can’t find info about doing messages on this site - the way my original post looks is a clear example of not knowing what is going on.
The Holgate Trolley is only the second G gauge item I’ve had. The other one was a Lionel set from the early 90’s that only worked the first year I had it - finallly ditched the critter after I got tired of messing with it. Salvaged the power pack, track etc. from the set and am using that with the Trolley.
Thanks again,
Joe O’Loughlin
That is the problem.
The chassis was most likely chosen for fit. Those MDC blocks don’t stick up very far.
Most LGB’s do.
USA would most likely work, Hartland for sure.
TOC
I built my own using the Holgate trolley and a HLW Mack block. It sits quite a bit higher than it should, but it runs really well. – If I had to do it over again I probably would have removed some more material from the underside of the benches to lower it a bit more, or used a different motor block