First off, how many people here actually use this product? I’m going to be handlaying my turnouts at the bench, and I can’t really make a stable base out of cork, so I think I’m going to buy some Homabed turnout pads to try, as I don’t have a saw to cut pieces of luan plywood, which was a little too hard for my liking.
Anyway, my question is this: I’m going to be doing some #5 turnouts from BK Enterprises. Unfortunately, the First Quarter of 2008 was when these pads were to be made available, but they’re not. SO, I thought about using the Walthers/Shinohara pads; they’ll be close enough. however, I had an idea while browsing their site: Do you think its feasable for me to buy, say, a pad for a #8, or even #10 turnout so that I would be able to make the stock rails longer and avoid rail joints near the points?
also, an important question: How thick is cork roadbed? I’m going to be using that for my flextrack and non-turnout track. Homabed offers 1/4" and 1/8" inch thicknesses. Which would better match up with traditional Midwest HO cork roadbed?
NOBODY uses Homabed here? damn.
does anyone at least know how thick HO cork is? lol
I’ve used Homabed over the last twenty or so years. I’ve only purchased from the original producer, however, who apparently sold his business to a California company which has greatly expanded the product line. Based on my experience, I would use an alternative product only if Homabed wasn’t available. It is great for spiking handlaid rail, and seems it will last forever rather than crumbling apart as some other products might.
Mark
I have used ‘Homabed’ for over 20 years as well. The basic material is 1/4" thick sanded Homasote. The stuff is great to spike into for handlaid track. I have never used turnout ‘pads’, I like to form the turnout using the standard roadbed material, But for had spiking, I can see using a single solid piece.
BTW, cork roadbed is 3/16" thick. I use it for all of my sidings/spurs. I just sand down the Homabed with a taper over 12" or so for the transition.
Jim
Using a #10 for a #5 switch won’t work as well because the geometry will be different and the #10 piece will end up only half as wide as you need.
Dave H.
Hello Greg,
I use HomaBed and I like it a lot for handlaying track. I don’t use the turnout pads, however, and make my turnout roadbed by splicing the standard sections. That way I can use any size turnout I want, and most of mine are Santa Fe-standard no. 6-1/2s. I build my turnouts in place, however, not on the bench, so I don’t need one-piece pads.
You may do better to buy HomaBed yard panels (plain, roadbed-height Homasote) and cut out turnout blocks to fit the turnouts you want to build. You don’t need to worry about cutting beveled edges. Just cut them square to the width of the ties and let the ballast find its natural slope.
Good luck with your layout,
Andy
I use homabed for my hand laid track, and have had excellent results. I used the turnout pads to build my turnouts right on the layout. However, the bigger yard sheets could be cut for turnouts not fitting the pads. A great product, and holds spikes very well.
Have fun!
Hal
Great, thanks for all the replies. I think I’m going to give these guys a shot and see how it goes.
But why don’t you think I could use a #8 or #10 pad for a #5 turnout? The length of the diverging route isn’t as important as being able to have extended stock rails past the points without a joint in the rails.