Here’s a hot topic - I have a Tech II 2800 power pack connected to my layout. I’ve noticed that it’s been getting very hot on one side. Right now the other side isn’t hooked up but that’s soon to change and I’m afraid it might just crap it’s pants on me.
Do I have to worry about it overheating and shutting down or is this par for the course with the 2800?
I had one of those years ago and if it’s hot that’s ok (mine got hot also) …it’s when the internal breaker starts tripping is when it starts to affect the operation of your layout…what i learned to do was run the trains for a short while and then stop then until it cools off a bit…the two throttles are independant of each other so connecting the other side won’t hurt it…chuck
Hot topic, eh? Lawls…
I recently had to replace one of my very faithful power packs because it started overheating. It was 40 years old sometime this decade. It’s brother is still operational, but it’s replacement isn’t as good as you’d expect for 15 years of advancement. (Just look at me)
Trainboy
Thanks for the replies. I have a Tech II 2500 which has been working great since 1984 so I have a lot of faith in MRC packs. I picked the 2800 up from e-Bay and am planning on using it on my layout at our club’s open house which means it’ll be running a single train for roughly 10 hours a day. I was concerned when I felt it get so hot after only about 30 min of running that it wouldn’t make it the entire 10 or so hours. Guess in a few weeks I’ll find out. The 2500 is ready and standing by just in case.
One thing I noticed with power packs that use reostats to control speed is that they will sometime heat up more at lower power settings (slow train speed) than if you allow the trains to run a little faster. This is because the reostat indroduces resistance into the circuit to drop the voltage from say 12 volts to six volts. Higher resistance in the circuit results in less voltage (speed) for the trains. The current flowing through this resistance generates heat. Running the trains at a higher speed may cause the engine to use more current, but with less resistance being introduced by the reostat, there is less heat generated in the power pack. Solid state power packs that control the output voltage without resorting to variable resistance introduction will not heat up at lower speed settings.
I had a problem with my 2500 tripping off from overheating even though it was not feeding more than the nameplate load. My solution was a bit drastic, but I’ve never had a problem yet! Probably ended up doubling the effective capacity of the power supply.
I installed a cooling fan. If you open up the unit you’ll find a transformer and a main circuit board with a cheap-o sheet of aluminum for the heat sink. Doesn’t work worth squat inside a sealed up plastic box to cool the electronics. My solution was to install a 1" diameter fan from Radio Shack on one side near the top / back side, and then drill 1/8" holes around the bottom for air inuts. I cut a 3/4" hole behind the fan for exhaust. The fan is powered by the 12VDC output. The higher the setting the faster the fan. The fan is very quiet under most conditions.
I’ve since bought a second fan and have another PS to retrofit as well.
Definately NOT something for the faint in heart to do!