Here is a question that I have not yet seen posted. How do you provide 110 volts to your power supplies/power packs? Are you using surge supressors, power strips, extension cords? Are these plugged directly into wall outlets or have you installed 110 outlets in the layout itself?
I am using a not too conveniently located surge supressor and am thinking about different methods so am interested in what other arrangements are being used.
Harold, I felt that I needed a surge protector between my layout and the wall socket because we get severe winter wind and rain storms that cause power outages, brown-outs, and the like. The authority is very good about bringing power back on line, so we don’t get severe spikes that way. But when the storms hit, we often get wonky power. Also, I have been told that the power on the Island is ‘dirty’. So, our good LCD TV and sound system and my PC are each on a good protector, or at least their manufacturers offered a pretty attractive warranty. For my trains, I felt it wise to invest a bit in a good quality surge protector, but not one of the $160 Monster brand ones sold for very expensive and finnicky electronics. I think I went to Future Shop or Canadian Tire, forget which, and paid maybe $50-60 for one. I don’t use the small toggle on my DB150 base station from Digitrax…it is too close to the scale selector toggle, and I have inadvertently flicked one at the same time as the other. Not cool to meter my tracks and find the reading at 19 volts!!! So, I have all appliances plugged into one of the six or seven sockets on the protector, and that includes the power supply for my Walthers built-up turntable and a DC power pack to run interior lighting in one building. I rock the rocker switch on the surge protector and the whole thing comes alive…so far.
-Crandell
After loosing my previous layout and a great number of the contents of my house do to a oil burner blow back caused by a power surge which took out the electronic safety I was determined to never have this nightmare ever happen again. So after disusing it with the electrician who helped me wire my shop I installed a whole house surge protector on my service panel. They range in price from around $30 to Several hundred dollars. We actually picked one up in Home Depot for around $250 and I now have the piece of mind knowing that not only my DCC command station and all other things electronic in the train room are protected but also every thing else in the house that is in one way or another connected to the service panel. I couldn’t believe how much damage could happen in literally a matter of seconds. Everything that was plugged into an electrical outlet with a power supply got destroyed. TV’S computers, monitors, stereo’s, ceiling fans wall clocks, telephones etc. I had a pile of burnt out junk in my driveway for the insurance adjuster that could have filled two pick up trucks. This is by far a worth wile investment trust me I learned this the hard way.
As far as wiring the layout itself at present I have everything running off of circuit breaker protected power strips. You need to only use the one’s with the circuit breaker on the end not the El cheapo dollar store kind. I have the entire layout wiring roughed in all 14ga wire and individual boxes mounted in strategic places through out the layout for things such as the DCC command station, the power boosters, battery chargers for tools, under layout service lighting and even a dedicated outlet for my shopvac that resides under the layout. I will also have all of the lighting on the layout controlled by a separate set of switches form the room lighting.
My biggest mistake was not gutting the train room before I started construction and doing all of this before I even put up the first piece of bench work. Lessons learned I g
Like Allegheny says, a surge protector is a good idea. In fact I might take his advice about a whole house unit. Think of a surge protector as a small insurance policy. It isn’t necessary, but when an unfortunate event happens, you’ll be glad you had it. You don’t need an expensive power strip, just one that is affordable and is UL listed (which I think all of them are). In fact, the power strip I use only cost me $7.
On my last layout I used a plug strip mounted on one of the legs so it was convenient to get to. I will do the same on my new layout. I had to run an extention cord so I use one the same gauge as the strip. I have seen layouts with 110 outlets on them and had one a layout with outlets on it. I was lucky to have a freind who was an electical contractor to do the wiring for me.When it comes to wiring 110v DON’T DO IT YOUR SELF!!! I have fought fires caused by do it your selfers wiring.
Where I live unplugging everything that isnt needed everyday is a necessity. TV’s are on surge protectors along with the major appliances. The reason is simple- Lightning! I live on top of a mountain and being that much closer to the sky sure does attract it more. Lightning surges have hit the satellite, our oven, and even hit the phone lines and fried the modem in my computer. So simply, when it comes to my trains, they remain unplugged and are plugged up when I use them and even then theres a surge protector.
My layout is powered by one humongous, rather complex, extension cord (at least, that’s what the local code inspector told me it is.) Power enters from the ceiling socket for the garage door opener that vanished with the previous owner. It then runs to a GFI outlet in the fascia across from the room light switch at the entrance door. The hot side is switched by a standard wall toggle, then power cascades to a string of outlets conveniently located along the main L-girder (actually a C-girder - heavyweight steel stud.) All the interconnecting wire (so far) originated with a 20-amp outdoor extension cord (once used to power an electric chain saw when I lived on a wood lot.) The accessory power supply plugs into the system, but the track power will be routed to a separate set of outlets connected to a layout-wide emergency kill circuit when I get to the point that permanent track power will be connected.
All of this is assembled to NEC standards for house wiring, and I am absolutely religious about hooking up the ground connection to EVERY grounding screw. This is an area where taking shortcuts can have lethal consequences, and I don’t plan to die from accidental electrocution!
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - carefully)
Hi,
this is a very good and valid question. I myself, once I can purchase a basement with some kind of dwelling unit on top, will do the following wiring.
1 Install a house surge surpessor, as mentioned by others it is great and cheap insurance for all of the appliances in the house, as well as the layout
2 Run a total of three dedicated 20 amp circuits for the layout, terminating in a pair of duplex receptacles each, giving me a total of 4 outlets on 2 circuits. This eliminates the possibility of voltage spikes due to the changing load demand on the circuit supplying the model railroad. Also these plugs will be of a different colour to prevent the confusion between regular plugs and layout dedicated plugs
3 The third ciruit would be designated for layout lighting. This circuit would be used for lights designated to the layout specifically, be it for structure lights or the highlights of scenes on the layout.
4 The relay that is used for switching these three cirucuits would be de-energized by the light switch that also turns the regular room lights off.
In case you are wondering, yes that is a bit of overkill, but at the same time one does not have to worry about future expansion plans and shortages of power. Also when one plugs and unplugs heavy current drawing appliances in a receptacle circuit it produces voltage spikes as well. By wiring designated circuits it prevents these spikes from happening.
As for now, being that all I got is a wall outlet in a spare bedroom I use a power bar type surge protector, for if heavy loads are switched on the circuit that this receptacle is it will cause spikes on this circuit.
Hope it helps
Frank
Here are a few things to consider.
If lightning strikes your house, it’s game over. It is so powerful, no surge suppressor will likely help. Make sure your home owner’s insurance covers lightning.
I don’t know about you, but I’ve never lived in a house that got struck by lightning. However, every house I’ve ever lived in has had lightning strike within a hundred yards. A whole-house surge suppressor will protect you most of the time, and save you making an insurance claim.
Many of your household appliances are actually the source of spikes and surges, the AC, fridge, and microwave the main culprits. Do your lights dim when the AC compressor cycles on? When the lights brighten, a surge just went through your line. In the summer, how many times a day does your AC go on and off? Remember, surge damage is cumulative. Multiple small surges will cause as much damage as one large one. A whole-house suppressor will probably not protect you from internally generated surges. Power strips with surge suppression built in will help you here.
Today’s electronics are not only damaged by spikes and surges, but by momentary power outages. (I’m talking about the ones that are a split-second to a few seconds long.) The devices start to go through a shutdown cycle, and when power is restored before that task is complete, most times they will lock up. Or worse, lose their programming. But you can find back-up power supplies with surge protection for as little as $40. My computer as well as my TVs and cable boxes all have these, called UPS (Uninteruptible Power Supply) by the manufacturers. You can be sure when I install my DCC system, I will have it on a UPS too.
Don
The whole house surge protector is a good idea, but the company that installed my home entertainment center recommended a dedicated surge protector in addition to the whole house protector on high value items like the TV, stereo, cable box, computer, and similar items. Just think of how many items are electronic these days including clocks, telephones, and even compact fluroescent lights. Practically all kitchen appliances have electronic controls; anything with a digital display has electronic controls. The list goes on and on, and it is not cost effective to have a dedicated surge protector on them all. That is where the whole house protector comes in.
Last December we had a serious power failure that had a number of dips and surges as it went down. It blew our whole house surge protector and a dimmer control for the track lights in the living room. It was covered as storm damage on our homeowners insurance, after the deductible. I feel the whole house protector did its job as we had no other damage.
My entire layout is plugged into a single switched surge suppressing power strip which is mounted on a leg of the bench work.
That power strip is plugged into the same APC uninterruptible power supply as the computer that sits beside the layout.
Surge suppression is a prudent move-especially with anything that is operated with ICs, etc.
Most residential power in this country is 120/240VAC. THis power source, although generally pretty reliable, isn’t perfect, and is subject to lightening strikes, and other sources of voltage surges.
My suggestion is NOT to use the strips; but instead, use a HOSPITAL GRADE surge suppressor that you install as part of your electrical system. These devices are much more reliable than any strip, in my opinion. When you wire this device in, make sure you do ground it properly. If you aren’t sure about what you may be attemping, then call a licensed electrical contractor .
Rich
owner, Richards Electric
Burlington, Ct.
I don’t bother with the “surge suppressor” power strips. They have a gizmo called a metal oxide varistor (MOV) soldered between hot and neutral. When the voltage spikes the MOV switches on and conducts thge spike thru itself. This heats up the MOV. If the spike is too big, it burns out the MOV. Then the next spike goes right thru and hits the “protected” equipment. MOV’s cannot be tested with ordinary equipment, and a burned out MOV looks just like a factory frest MOV. So you never know if a “surge suppressor” will actually suppress even a small surge.
Then remember, NOTHING will protect against a direct lightening strike. If your power line, or worse your service entrance, gets struck, lightening is loose on your house wiring and everything plugged in gets zapped. The only protection is to unplug stuff when not in use.
I have never used a whole house surge suppressor, and know nothing about them. But I would certainly read the makers claims of protection VERY carefully before spending serious money on one.
Thanks for all the great information. All of the electronics in my house are on surge protectors and when this place was built I didn’'t think about a whole house protector - it probably isn’t too late to install one.
With regard to the layout, the surge protector I have is plugged into a GFI circuit - however, getting to the protector isn’t too convenient so mounting it on a leg might be an option. I was looking to see if anyone has wired 120 volt outlets into the layout and, based on the feedback and even though some of you have done that, it doesn’t sound as if that is a preferred method. In any event, it is probably a job for a licensed electrician.
I agree.
My parents house got hit when I was a kid. Those stories you hear about the TV glowing are true. Everything that was plugged into a socket was destoyed including the well
I agree with the use of surge protectors. But I would never put a 110-outlet wired permanently into your layout. Leave all house AC to the pros! A single surge strip with all the power needs of your layout running to it is a great idea so as to turn it all off with just one switch.
My 120 volt outlets are installed on the layout, about one per six linear feet of aisleway, protected by GFI - but the main power lead plugs into a hard-wired socket. As a result, the layout electricals are considered to be an extension cord.
If I had gone inside the electrical box behind the ceiling socket and hard-wired there, I would have had to get a permit, then schedule (and pay for) rough-in and final electrical inspections. And then would have to go through the same process every time i extend the benchwork and add another receptacle or two. Since I am the homeowner I can do my own (but nobody else’s) electrical work (not true in all jurisdictions.)
Amazing what a difference there is between a three-prong plug and three wire nuts…
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Just remember that a GFI will not protect equipnent against a line surge; it does protect against a grounded someone or something contacting a hot lead, i.e. hopefully no electric shock or electrocution. They are particularly good for protection in wet or damp locations
David Starr wrote:
" don’t bother with the “surge suppressor” power strips. They have a gizmo called a metal oxide varistor (MOV) soldered between hot and neutral. When the voltage spikes the MOV switches on and conducts thge spike thru itself. This heats up the MOV. If the spike is too big, it burns out the MOV. Then the next spike goes right thru and hits the “protected” equipment. MOV’s cannot be tested with ordinary equipment, and a burned out MOV looks just like a factory frest MOV. So you never know if a “surge suppressor” will actually suppress even a small surge. "
Most surge suppressors do use an MOV. (The better ones use a gas-discharge tube.) And it is true that many times a compromised MOV will not be distinguishable from an undamaged one. However, I have also seen them smoked, pocked, and completely blown apart. But whatever the case, manufacturers do not want you regularly opening the suppressor to examine the device. ( They usually assemble them with security screws to prevent that.) Instead, they have installed an indicator light that tells if the unit is functioning properly---- if lit, you’re fine; if not, time for a new suppressor.
Don
I use a computer power strip with a built in surge protector. When not in use, i unplug the power strip from the wall outlet as additional protection.