So we have all posted photos from time to time that showed something wrong with what we are looking at, maybe a derailment that wasn’t picked up until after the pic was posted or a cow in the background that had fallen over or something similar.
I just noticed something wrong in this photo that I have since fixed, but come on Brent how did I miss it?
Can you find it and can you post a similar booboo?
Edit; it is not the track that has joiners on it that doesn’t line up with the pit, it is something else.
I would not knit pic other’s photos either, but if I don’t laugh at myself no one will and some of my jokes deserve at least a chuckle.
Anyway, the glaring error is one of the doors was hung backward, it has since been turned around. The doors on the Walthers RH hang freely so you can open and close them. While I was working on it and moving it around that one kept falling off and I guess in my haste I didn’t notice I had put it on backward.
Mel, I had to go check on the missing ladder as I thought you may be right but alas there is no ladder to be seen on the box photo or in the directions.[B]
I’ve posted lots of photos with booboos, but folks are generally pretty considerate, and don’t usually go out of their way to point out my errors.
However, this one, posted in one of my early forays on-line, was pointed out almost immediately after I posted it…
I was aware of the hovering front wheel on the car, but didn’t think that it would be all that obvious to viewers.
It left me wondering whether the fault was in my assembly of the Jordan vehicle, or my technique wielding the drywall knife to create that not-very-smooth-pavement. The fact that I took the photo and used it, despite its flaws, never really bothered me all that much, though.
The mistakes which do bother me most, though, are the ones I make writing the blather which is meant to go with the photos, whether it’s spellng mistakes, or grammatical ones, or simply not expressing that which I’m trying to convey in an easily understood manner.
Whenever an older thread is revived (usually by a newer member) and I discover input of my own doing, I’ll check it for such errors, and correct them as needed.
Indeed Wayne, it is not obvious. In fact, I think that you are being far too critical of yourself by pointing it out. The gap between the tire and the road is barely visible, at least in the picture anyhow.
However, if you want us to get really picky, the rear wheel doesn’t appear to be on straight. It looks like it is tilted. In fact it looks like it has an old Triumph TR6 rear suspension. They were famous for the rear wheels sitting on an angle to the road.
There you go! One more thing to beat yourself up about![swg][(-D][(-D][(-D] Please don’t hesitate to ask if you want me to provide more excuses for you to be critical of your absolutely masterful modelling![swg][(-D][(-D][(-D]
There is a company that specializes in making resin tires for 1/48 scale aircraft that have a realistic “bulge” to show the weight of the airplane. Most tires included in plastic model kits have no bulge, like the plane is flying with the landing gear down.
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I use these tires on all my 1/48 scale aircraft I build. If there is no resin tire made for a certain aircraft… I pass on the kit.
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Not having the bulge on HO scale tires has begun to bother me.
I was refering to the turntable pit pointing to the stall with the mishung door. Again, I didn’t want to give it away without being able to share a photo of my own for the next I spy subject.
I scratch built the superstructure on my CMR turntable using the October 1989 MR as a go-by, it had a ladder. The CMR Kit didn’t have any superstructure.
This is from construction in 2007.
The CMR out of the box had only the handrails, very close to a Southern Pacific turntable and I’m an SP Nut.
When we moved to Bakersfield the Santa Fe turntable and roundhouse were still operational. I fell in love with that turntable so my
Maybe not, Ed, but your spiders seem to work pretty-much true to HO scale.
I generally don’t mind the spiders too much unless they get carried away with web-building…
…and am not too shy about advertising my own oversights, either…
I thought that this photo would be a good souvenir for the friend for whom I had built this locomotive…
…but didn’t notice until viewing the picture that it was displaying its tendency to do what had originally earned the loco its nickname.
When first running the completed loco for its owner, it displayed a tendency to derail the lead truck on curves, then self-correct the issue as soon as straight track was encountered. On that occasion, I remarked, in my best eastern European accent, “Holy schmoley, eeze real Beeg Boy, nothink eeze stoppink heem!” As a result, we always refer to that loco as Beeg Boy, while its roundhouse stable-mates are usually referred to by number or their CNR alpha/numeric class I.D.s
In the photo above, the lifted wheel was manually created when I placed the loco on the track, and unwittingly (Pay attention, boy!) snapped the photo.
Yeah, I remember those cars, but my 15 year old Mazda has the same look, and it’s actually set-up to those specs, with surprisingly little adverse effects as far as tire wear is concerned. It handles like a marble down a drain pipe, and sticks to the road like you-know-what to a wool blanket.
I’ve had similar problems with most Sylvan and Jordan vehicles - the latter’s Model A Fords are probably the best of the bunch for good solid wheel positioning, while many of their models are too concerned with scale and not concerned enough with durability and ease of construction. On many of my more recently-built Jordan and Sylvan models, I alter or replace the suspension parts with simpler and stronger alternatives made from styrene and/or wire, as the underbodies are not visible under normal viewing conditions.
