I just bought a Stewart S-8. Can someone tell me how to remove the Cab/Hood?
The instructions say to use a small screwdriver to press the tabs to release the hood.
As much as I have tried I have been unable to do that.
I can’t tell which way to press the tabs, to the inside or towards the outside.
Anyone out there that can help?
I have another that is a Stewart V-1000. It came with the cab already removed so I didn’t have to do this previously. The V-1000 is very smooth and is the reason I purchased another Stewart.
On the VO-660, you can just pry the sides of the shell out and pull it off the frame whole. Once you’ve done that, you’ll be able to see the 4 tabs that hold the hood on the rest of the shell. Hope that helps…
I haven’t taken my DS4-4-1000 apart since I installed the decoder but I think on that one you push IN on the isdes of the hood near the front and near the cab and gently rock it side to side until the tabs release. It wasn’t easy the first couple of times.
Where is this information about Bowser having sold them? No such info is on the Bowser or Stewart web site.
I have an F7 and a DS-4-4-1000 and love them both. They run smooth and quiet for me, althought I run them in DC right now. I also like them better them my PROTO 2000.
Stewart Products is a different company. They make cast metal details and kits, such as a nice diesel fuel rack. Someone here built one and showed a picture of their completed work - Tom maybe?
DigitalGriffin and Randy, thanks for the post. I was looking at a Stewart DS4-4-1000 this weekend at LHS. He has a MP that I want for my layout. This thread has sold me.
That makes sense. Tomar also bought Alexander Scale Models (ASM), who manufactured cast metal windows, doors, parts, and machinary. They are in the process or reissuing the ASM craftsman structure kits again.
Of all the locomotives in my fleet, the Stewarts (both Kato and Beulher <sp?> drives) have been the most reliable and overall finest running. The FTs trucks are vertically a little stiff, so a dip on an outside curve rail will cause a derailment (eg bad track). The truck’s sideframes don’t “snap” back onto the main part well after they have been disassembled. Other than those two really picky things, I love them.
While I have not put a decoder into a VO unit yet (although I should as I have about 10 sitting here on the project to-do list), all the other DCC conversions have been easy to do. Both with and without sound. I would think that a speaker for the sound would be the most challenging aspect.
