How are the Bachmann EMD E7s?

One more second round of the thoughts, on a general note.

Again speaking to the idea that different “details” matter, or don’t matter, to different people.

So many people are more and more hung up on our models being “correct” and are quick to criticize models that are generic, or freelanced, selectively compressed, or simply close stand ins.

Yet many of the those same people will overlook cars/locomotives grossly coupled with large gaps between them as they squeek around way too sharp a curve, kinda like a piece of LIONEL.

To my eyes, all that accurate model beauty is LOST as soon as you do that.

You may as well tie them together with strings and run them around 18" radius at that point.

Am I a radius snob? - you bet.

It is what makes the WHOLE SCENE look realistic.

So to my eyes, even though they are not specific models of actual passenger cars, my close coupled 72’ cars with touching working diaphragms, pulled by my Proto E units and PA’s, also close coupled with touching diaphragms, are realisticly graceful as they weave thru my 36" radius and larger curves.

I’m interested in building a working, operating model railroad that gives some sort of big picture realism to the moving train as a whole, not in just accumulating accurate individual “display” models of railroad equipment.

But we all have different goals and interests. And the details I consider important likely matter not to others, and vice versa.

So, for many people, the Bachmann E7 is likely just fine, and for someone not spending $1200 on a single passenger train, a good value for their money.

Others will feel differently, myself included. While I have lots of Bachmann products, not one “mainline” diesel they have offered is up to my detail standards.

I do have Bachmann GE 44 and 70 Tonners, and a fleet of their doodlebugs. The rest of my Bachmann stuff is steam, most

Sheldon, I get your point. After re-reading your post a few times, it seems that you are going after the anti-Bachmann crowd than the BLI followers. But, I have to defend my BLI E-units.

I don’t see where Proto E-units are any more detailed than BLI E-units. I came across a 2017 critique this morning where a modeler darn near rebuilt his Proto E-units to achieve more realism and detail.

Yes, the BLI diaphragms do touch out of the box.

That opening in the front of the BLI E-unit doesn’t seem very big to me, no more so than photos of the actual prototype. And, there is a spare part in every BLI E-unit box to completely cover the opening and forego the coupler which is unnecessary anyhow except for back-to-back consisting.

All of my BLI E-units were purch

The issue of close coupling and working diaphragms is an issue with not only BLI but also Bachmann and Proto 2000, at least out of the box. It takes time, effort and money to accomplish close coupling and working diaphragms.

The same is true for passenger cars. Walthers is probably the manufacturer who has produced more 85’ passenger cars than any other passenger car manufacturer. Other threads on this forum have pointed out the necessity of “fine tuning” these cars, not only couplers and diaphragms but also trucks and wheelsets.

You do have a decided advantage with 36" radius curves. Most modelers do not have that luxury of space. I come close with 32" radius curves, but I still cannot accomplish the objectives of close coupling and working diaphragms out of the box, be it locomotives or passenger cars.

Rich

[quote user=“richhotrain”]

ATLANTIC CENTRAL

One more second round of the thoughts, on a general note.

So many people are more and more hung up on our models being “correct” and are quick to criticize models that are generic, or freelanced, selectively compressed, or simply close stand ins.

Yet many of the those same people will overlook cars/locomotives grossly coupled with large gaps between them as they squeek around way too sharp a curve, kinda like a piece of LIONEL.

To my eyes, all that accurate model beauty is LOST as soon as you do that.

You may as well tie them together with strings and run them around 18" radius at that point.

Am I a radius snob? - you bet.

It is what makes the WHOLE SCENE look realistic.

So to my eyes, even though they are not specific models of actual passenger cars, my close coupled 72’ cars with touching working diaphragms, pulled by my Proto E units and PA’s, also close coupled with touching diaphragms, are realisticly graceful as they weave thru my 36" radius and larger curves.

The issue of close coupling and working diaphragms is an issue with not only BLI but also Bachmann and Proto 2000, at least out of the box. It takes time, effort and money to accomplish close coupling and working diaphragms.

The same is true for passenger cars. Walthers is probably the manufacturer who has produced more 85’ passenger cars than any other passenger car manufacturer. Other threads on this forum have pointed out the necessity of “fine tuning” these cars, not only couplers and diaphragms but also trucks and wheelsets.

You do have a decided advantage with 36" radius curves. Most modelers do not have

I am going to leave you with this thought, Sheldon, and I hope that in some small way you will feel bad.

I went down to my layout and assembled all of my BLI E-units together. I said to them, Listen Up. A fellow modeler told me the following. Quote.

“I’ll tell you what E unit I would never buy, the over priced crappy, bulky oversized detail Broadway models with front couplers that stick out too far, oversized couple holes in the pilot, no other pilot details and crappy diaphragms”.

Sheldon, if you listen closely, you can actually hear the sobbing, weeping, and gnashing of teeth. My layout will never be the same. I hope you’re happy.

[:'(]

Rich

So they are going for the JC Penny or domestic automaker route of a high list price, then lots of discounts so people seem to think they are getting a deal? Ouch. Or are they just unable to sell them at their list price, and have to discount them?

Great.

[quote user="ATLANTIC CENTRA

Which is pathetic. Model manufactures are not sports teams or political parties. They don’t need to be defended. And someone who has a different opinion about them doesn’t need to be “gone after”.

They are on eBay for $140

I don’t want a Proto EMD E7 because they are a tad too detailed, I’m using Trainline ALCO FAs so highly detailed models might clash if you set them together.

This discussion went south REALLY quickly

[quote user=“n012944”]

ATLANTIC CENTRAL

n012944

Trainman440

They lack detail (especially prototype specific detail), but are dimensionally accurate. They got the sound value decoders which basically give it horn bell prime mover sound.

If you dont mind the value decoder and detail isnt important to you, then its fine…but I agree an old proto 2000 model is far superior.

$300 for a crappy decoder and non proto detail is deal breaker.

https://mrr.trains.com/news-reviews/staff-reviews/2017/03/bachmann-soundvalue-ho-scale-emd-e7a

First of all, they are not really $300. You can buy all the sound and value Bachmann E7’s you want for $180 each. And you can buy the DC version for $80 and put in whatever decoder you like.

So they are going for the JC Penny or domestic automaker route of a high list price, then lots of discounts so people seem to think they are getting a deal? Ouch. Or are they just unable to sell them at their list price, and have to discount them?

Let the locos know I am sorry, and they are worthy despite any short comings. I will work on some remedial upgrades for their couplers, espeically those front ones out in space.

Sheldon

If I were to repaint an E7 into GN, would the Bachmann one be the easiest?

Well, not in my opinion because you should likely strip the paint off.

The easiest would be to find a Proto units already lettered GN, or find an undecorated Proto and paint it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Proto-2000-E7A-Locomotive-920-40960-Great-Northern-511-A-A-Unit-w-Sound-DCC/154043468625?epid=1400425625&hash=item23ddb4cb51:g:418AAOSwD~FfND~p

Sheldon

So, you asking would the Bachmann shell be easier to paint than the Proto shell?

Either way, you should strip the excisting/old paint off first.

I don’t know if one would strip easier than the other. To me, it wouldn’t matter, I would pick the loco that fits what I want, strip it, and repaint and decal it, and add the appropriate details.

Mike.

There are currently 4 undecorated Proto E7’s on Ebay right now, all less than $100.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Life-Like-PROTO-2000-HO-Scale-UNDECORATED-E7A-LOCOMOTIVE-with-DCC/265056776247?hash=item3db69d7037:g:DxYAAOSwraBgLHzH

Seems like a no brainer to me.

Sheldon

So your trolling? Sad. There was a recent thread going after Broadway for issues with their new NP 4-8-4. Maybe you were uninformed of this? Broadway seems to be taking their lumps, justified it seems, over their Paragon 3 issues. I haven’t seen anyone give them a “soft pass”.

Go ahead and keep “ragging” on Broadway. I don’t own stock in them, I don’t know the owners, so your “ragging” does not bother me. I bet people who you think “pick on Bachmann unfairly” feel the same. Although it is a pretty hypocritical stance you have chosen to take.

I admit, I did not know the price one could get a Bachmann E7 for. I am not surprised, and feel sorry for anyone that paid list price for that model. Really, if someone didn’t get it for at least 60% off, they overpaid. As for the curtness, I give what I get. You are not shy about giving your opinions about models, don’t get upset when someone else givers theirs.

I ordered a Bachmann EMD E7 in CB&Q, time to see how good they are

Well, after all of the different points of view expressed in this thread, be sure to keep us posted on your assessment of the Bachmann CB&Q EMD E7.

Rich