The 1x4, 2 inch foam, shelf brackets on the wall thing, is what I’m using. My benchwork modules are ready to attach to the brackets, but, I want to see how the forum folks are putting the modules up so they don’t fall.
My brackets are 16 inches, modules are 24 inches. I was planning on a L-girder running at right angles to the brackets, but, thought there may be other ways. I’m really looking for a way that will add minimal height to the base, due to some space constraints.
So, how are you attaching the benchwork to the brackets so the brackets support the benchwork?
I saw a layout this weekend that looks like this. As one can tell, that’s 2" foam glued on a 1 by. The 1 by is screwed to each bracket from the bottom.
You’ve got 1x4’s glued to the foam, right? In that case, use 2" drywall screws, and drill through the brackets into the 1x4. Some of the screw will penetrate the foam, adding a bit more support.
Hmmmm, the wheels are turning, after seeing the pic from Tom Bryant.
So far, the only module I have in place is in the closet and I support that on 2x’s attached to the wall.
Riddle me this.
Would two layers of 2 inch pink foam, sandwich together , with 1/4 ply / masonite facia, work for my app? Supports are roughly every 16-24 inches, but, due to some interesting construction, there is a gap of 30 inches on one wall, and 65 inches on the other (window). (Thinking an L-girder lengthwise on this part) Would attach the foam to L-shaped 1x1 molding that line up with the brackets, screw the wood into the bracket.
I remember MR had the layout (Marty McGuirk maybe?) that was two layers of the pink stuff.
With TWO layers of 2" foam, you can pretty much skip the wood! Make sure the pieces of foam are bonded together well. Foam does have a ‘grain’ to it (easier to cut in one direction than the other), so if you can laminate them at right angles, the resulting piece will be even stronger. The 30" gap is no sweat. The 65" gap could be problematic. You might get enough additional support from your fascia panel. If necessary, you can add an additional support between your shelf brackets. A single 1x2" mounted with the 1" side up should give you more than adequate support unless you plan on walking on your layout. For peace of mind, you can make that support piece an L-girder.
If you are using shelf brackets as in Tom’s picture, you will have to drill through both sides of the bracket. Pre-drill the 1x2", then run a pan head screw through the bracket and into the end of your 1x2". If you are adventurous, you can even use a piece of foam as the support brace! Many, many years ago, someone made a TV commercial that had a bridge made out of laminated cardboard. Then they drove a CAR over it! Laminated foam is even better!
darrell: thanks for the info. the brackets i’m using are not the double, but, standard duty (as opposed to light or heavy duty) single bracket. the standards are full-height 6 footers, tied into the studs with (12) 9 x 3. i’ve “tested” these weight-wise, using books for the last two years, with no problem, so i don’t think module weight will stress them out, especially as i don’t plan on having 400 lb plaster mountains. [:0]
the single bracket is what was throwing me off on how to attach, as i also wasn’t planning on specifically spacing the cross pieces to match the brackets. now that the error my ways has been identified, i will correct that.
of course, just might do the two layers of foam… got something to occupy my gourd during work meetings today.[:D]
Standard brackets are plenty strong, as your testing has shown. I have my magazine collections in magazine holders on shelves with single brackets. They weigh a TON and I have no trouble with them!
The single brackets can move side-to-side, where the double brackets don’t wiggle at all. I will be using shelf brackets for my new layout and will use the double brackets to eliminate lateral movement.
One other idea for you that will provide additional support and reduce lateral movement is to use 1x2" or 2x2" lumber to span between the brackets. Rather than screwing through the brackets, lay the lumber on top of the shelf brackets. Make saw kerfs where the lumber brace crosses over the bracket and the brace will fit down over the bracket. Use a long brace across the back. Long or short braces can be used across the front of the backets as needed. You don’t really need the long brace at the back. It’s just there to keep the layout level. Another advantage of using the braces across the brackets is that your layout can be in standardized sections since, with the braces, the sections don’t have to meet over a shelf bracket. The braces will support a joint half-way between the shelf brackets.
If you use the lumber braces across the shelf brackets, you won’t need to double up the 2" foam. The brackets and braces will give you more than enough support for your layout.
Just more ideas for you to ponder in all those meetings. Just keep the doodling hidden from your co-workers. LOL
Definitely have the side-to-side play with the single brackets. If I was doing it over again, (and the stores were keeping them in stock like they are now) I would go with the doubles. Both for the rigidity and the ease of attaching the benchwork.
Saw Kerf!! Good idea![tup] Got to give you your props on that one!.
Eggg-salent!
I’m looking in Kalmbach’s Basic Model Rairoad Track Plans - Small Starter Layouts You Can Build. In chapter 17 entitled, “Let’s build the Wildcat Central” (pg. 60), the author, Jim Kelly, shows a diagram where he uses 8" wide, 1/8" Masonite “cleats” and 1-1/2" sheet metal screws to attach the ends of the individual foam sections to one another. From what I can tell, after the author attaches the foam sections together with the cleats, he just lays the foam on top of the L-brackets made from 1 x 2 and reinforced with 1/8" hardboard braces - without glue or screwing them down. The L-brackets are 24" high and the width of the foam piece.
Tom
P.S. Len, after a little research, it appears that MR magazine also had this article in their Jan 2001 issue. The book may be easier to locate than the back issue.
