I am lucky enough that my wife is letting me build a 33x43 building in our back yard for my train room. Part of my planning among many things is the 115ac plugs and amps required for a 30x31 HO layout using Digitrax DCC. I am new to DCC but I hear you put boosters for the layout. Do they need to be on different circuits or not. Also what is the rule-of-thumb for how many boosters.
The DCC system’s draw on the AC is going to be minimal. Just for raw foiguring, let’s say you have 3 10A boosters (pretty unlikely) and that they each ate another 5A in overhead. So now you are at 45A, at maybe 15V, total power is 675W, less than 10 light bulbs worth, less than 1/3 of the capacity of a 20A circuit. And those numbers are almost certainly more than you’ll use. Lighting is much more likely to be the driving factor, power wise, on your layout. No need for boosters to be on different circuits.
As far as how many boosters, there isn’t a clear rule of thumb, you’ll need to fugure out what you expect to draw (pretty much how many locos are running at once at 0.5A each, more or less), add some extra capacity for fun, and figure out what boosters suit you best.
With a building that size, I would run at least 100amp 220v service. You’ll use a lot more juice for heating/cooling/ ventilation and lighting than you will for your railroad.
Since the building will be of substantial size, you’re going to need to run electrical service to a panel in the building, be it a 100 AMP Subpanel or something similar in size. From that panel, you can run circuits for lighting, outlets and A/C if desired. I would check with an electrician to find out what the local code calls for in delivering power to your new building, then decide how many outlets you want in the building along with the lighting requirements.
sounds like you have quite the project on your mind. Just a couple of items before you start with this building.
Do a potential load calculation. That is consider how you will heat the building, what other purposes will it serve, how much lighting required, size of AC, etc. All these items are factors with regards to the size of the service that you need. For example if the heating is by gas, no stove or welder just a fridge and some lights and plugs then maybe a 60 amp service is big enough. Let’s not forget that most apartments only have a 60 amp service and most houses only have a 100 amp service.
Consider the size of the house service and how much of an extra load it is that it can take. It would be highly recommendable to have a profesional look at your project.
Since you will be digging a trench most likely to install the electrical, put in a couple of extra conduits for such items as an alarm system, telephone, computer line, etc. Hey you already tore up the back yard might as well take advantage of the situation.
Lastly when I finally get my train room I will wire in a three pole contactor that is turned on and off by a light switch. This three pole contactor will control three circuits which will power different items on the layout. Ie one circuit for the lights, one for the receptacles which will be another colour from the rest of the receptacles in the room and the last circuit would be a spare or power another set of receptacles. This way all you have to do is hit a light switch and you can be assured that all the power to the model railroad is OFF.
Approximately what I did. Then again I AM a professional electrician among other hats.
I have two safety switches, one is very obvious as I leave the train room. Both must be on to power any part of the layout. Also remember when you calculate load that you are only allowed to load a circuit up to 80%. IE a 20 amp circuit can only carry a continuous load of 16 amps and a 15 amp ckt only 12. Definitely bring in a 240/120 line so that you can run big AC units at the higher voltage. 60 Amps will be fine. Insulate the building well to save on energy costs. They have the potential to be substantial in a building of that size.
BTW: Most of the new houses in my area use 100 or 200 amp services for everything, even electric heat when necessary.
As has been noted, the load for building overhead will be far greater than any load your layout is likely to impose. What I have done for my 17 x 20 double garage filler is to provide a dedicated 20A circuit (originally meant for the garage door opener that isn’t there) for all layout needs. My room lighting and utility outlets are on separate circuits, each with its own breaker.
You might want to check with your local code authorities for any special installation requirements. Locally, our code only requires one utility outlet in a garage or outbuilding - nowhere near adequate for model railroading needs.
I had a 100 amp sub panel installed for my basement. Since I had the luxury of the extra circuits, I have 3 for the train room, 15Aeach for Layout & Wall Receptacles, 20A for Lights (flour. work lights and layout lighting).The rest of the panel feeds the remainder of the basement. The furnace and water heater are still connected to the main panel upstairs.
I have Digitrax DCC, with a Command Station (DCS-100) and two Booster Units (DC-150) each with a maximum rating of five amps. I plan on one additional booster unit. When my house was built I had the electrical contractor put in a seperate 20 amp circuit for the layout power (4 Digitrax units). This circuit has its own cut off switch at the base of the stairs so I can turn the power to the layout off as I leave the room.
Right now I have a two track modular “plywood pacific” in operation, until the new layout can be constructed. The layout is level and I usually run two 3 unit trains and a single switcher. I have a mixture of PK2, Atlas and Athearn locmotives. I am running this layout with only the one DCS-100 as the newer locomotives do not draw as much current. I am planing on adding sound units shortly whcih could change things.