How did you build your helix?

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

What’s the best way to build a helix? If you built one, please tell me how you did it.

2

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=42326
Here’s a thread I started a while back. It might be helpful.

3

Thanks for the link, very interesting. I have just learned a lot about grades and radius.

If we are talking about the construction of the helix, is there a standard method?

Is there other solutions then a helix for a multideck layout?

4

The way I built my helix is basically the same as the way l laid my other track. Plywood subroadbed going up on risers, and the usual cork roadbed and flextrack. It’s not too hard, just use your normal tracklaying methods.
Matthew

5

One thing even if you cut out your segments all at once, do the inlet easement and start the first layer of plywood, go 6"wide for single track 8 1/2" wide for double track (preferred because the outside track can be your up track and the larger radius eases the grade. Note the 2 1/2" center distance between tracks so you can get at any derailed cars. Go with cork roadbed and flex track. do half to one layer at a time, being sure to get smooth curves and joints . if 1/2" plywood, use the same to splice the joints in the segments, say 6" lap under each side of the joint. screw or glue and clamp until set up. Always be sure not to have a roadbed or rail joint on top of a splice joint. Work upward one layer at a time. Be sure to use a generous radius because a lot of newer modern and passengerequipment is 85 feet long. 30" is good but larger is better. If you have the room use 42-48"radius and keep your grade around 1 1/2% certainly no more than 2%. If you follow this guide you will have a smooth running helix that you can even stop-start trains on using it for staging if you wish.

6

Our club built a helix, 4 tracks wide, 5-1/2 turns, several years ago. It’s been in operation successfully since then. The individual levels are supported by threaded rod secured at the top and bottom, and each level has a plywood strip running from inside to out and held in place by nuts and washers, which makes it adjustable to compensate for shifting and warping. I have pictures of it so you can email me if you’re interested.