I have several non DCC turnouts already installed (but not glued) on my layout. Where can I get information on how to modify them. I know that the frog needs to be isolated somehow but that’s about all.
Thank you all,
Bruce in the Peg
Depending on their construction, Bruce, you might benefit from soldering tiny strands of wire jumpers to cross the gap or to bridge the hinge mechanism between the moving points segments and their butts that end up wing guards at the frogs. I have found that some commercial turnouts don’t permit or maintain a reliable contact between the points and the stock rails, and as a result you get power failure somewhere along the point after a diversion. I had to do this for the first time ever (and did a stellar job, despite my all-thumbs soldering history) on a three-way Walthers/Shinohara #6 at the second set of points. All locos shorted (so I knew to start gapping), and/or stalled as they traversed or got beyond the inner points. I took three strands of very fine wire, braided them, wicked molten solder into them, and then made a little “omega” with the ears soldered to the rail ends on either side of the point hinge. Power works great now.
The Pecos, if you have any, may need to have the diversion, immediately after the frog insulation plastic, widened very carefully with e Dremel type cut-off, or you simply paint the rail surfaces for a distance of about 5/16" with a clear varnish or finger nail lacquer. The rail ends are so close on the Pecos that a standard metal wheel will most often connect ever so briefly with both rail tops and cause your system to beep and shut down due to an indicated short.
Other than those things, I have found all my turnouts, EZ-Track, Peco, Walthers/Shinohara, and especially my own handmade Fastracks #8’s and a single #6 Double Slip to keep my Super Empire Builder quite content. EZ-Track are no longer in use.
-Crandell
Side from the great advice above, I have found this website to be helpful (I like diagrams)…