How do I raise buildings to match elevated cork underlay?

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

Hello,

now that I’ve completed my railway design and gathering up track, I’d like to use cork underlay to elevate the track for realism and also for quieter running.

My fairly newie question is how do I raise my goods yard station to match the raised road bed? It is as simple as placing extra cork underneath the station with minimal overhang to raise the buildings up, or is there another technique that I can use?

I did a search of the whole internet but found very little information on the subject.

2

That will work.

3

I went with the same cork roadbed for my station base, at the time it was the easiest way to go for me.

Mel

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

4

I model in HO scale, so I find that 3/16 white foam board from a craft store works perfectly for this. It’s a lot cheaper than using cork or roadbed foam under structures.

5

I agree with Mister Beasley! I over bought cork roadbed when I was laying my track, I still have a lot left 25 years later.

Mel

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

6

For stations, I use 1/4" or stacked 1/8" Masonite, leftovers from making the layout fascia, to raise the platforms. With code 83 rail on Central Valley ties, it puts the top of the platform level with the head of the rail, so no tripping hazard for the LPBs if they need to cross the track to an appropriate platform (the crossover walkways are not yet in place)…

For industries on their own sidings, though, it’s better to bring the track down to the same level as the surface on which the industries are placed.
Once past the turnout, the cork for the industrial track can be easily tapered down to “ground level” using coarse sandpaper. The example shown below is quite short, but causes no difficulties with derailments or unwanted uncouplings, since the longest cars that would see use on it are 50’-ers…

If you’re running autoracks or similarly long cars, though, it would be wise to make the transition more gradual.

Wayne

7

Hello all,

Check out this thread:

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/264028.aspx

Another option is to “lower” the trackage along the goods yard station as the prototypical sometimes does.

To do this simply sand or plane down the cork roadbed to provide a transition.

Hope this helps.

8

I’ve seen Walmart stock 12 x12 3/16 inch cork tiles in 5 pack bundles.

9

Thankyou to everyone for your help[:)] I’m only running an 8x4 and my sidings require the trains to back up into them, but the idea of dropping the rails down will work perfectly on my longer one of the two Where I’m planning on placing the sugar refining kit from Walthers.

the pictures really help a new comer to the hobby like me. I’ve tried to plan this out so I dont just jump in.

lifting the buildings with cork seems like it will work too. Thankfully cork is fairly cheap here in Australia! I can paint the cork base and after placing my goods yard on it bring the gravel up to the base and weather it in.

its a long way down the track for me but just trying to get over these hurdles before diving in!!