I do not know how to install them when it’s not mounted to the car
I am putting Bachmann knuckle couplers on it but I can’t post the image cuz only 1 imagine limit, I’ll post it in the comments
kadee couplers come with boxes that can be glued in place to hold the coupler
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What limit do you mean?
I’ll give you an honest answer to your question.
First, remove the wheelset shown in the picture. Then, look closely at this part and analyze how the manufacturer installed the coupler. Once you can imagine how, remove the coupler in reverse order. You can probably do this easily with a small “flat-head” screwdriver.
Next, it should be obvious how to install the new E-Z Mate coupler. Be careful not to get the coupler upside down. Good luck.
The coupler that came attached to the product is called a horn-hook coupler, and the E-Z Mate coupler is a type of knuckle couplers.
If you would like to make full use of the knuckle couplers, there is a completely different procedure. In that case, please contact us again.
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The big issue with your description is the mounting lug is a different size. The horn hook coupler uses a locating pin which is significantly smaller than the pin needed for the new couplers.
One could fabricate a new coupler box from styrene, but as recommended earlier it would be easier to get some Kadee coupler boxes and body mount them. If the OP is really set on using truck mounted couplers I know Kadee has mounting kits, but I have no experience with them.
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Sometimes a piece of rolling stock will have a small rim so that even with a Kadee coupler box, you may need a small piece of styrene sheet to set the coupler box at the proper level. Jay Bee Coupler Mounting Pads used to be a great solution, but that company has been out of business for some time now. Occasionally, you can still find this item on eBay.
Rich
If you want to stay with the truck-mounted couplers then you need to use the Kadee talgo truck adapter #212
Dan
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Or cut the coupler off the truck as I have done and replace it with a body mounted coupler.
Rich
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Another approach:
Ditch the trucks along with the couplers and replace them with NMRA RP-25 compliant talgo trucks. Kadee is one manufacturer; there are probably more. Kadee has several different styles of these trucks - Bettendorf, Arch Bar, etc.
The wheels that are currently on the car have deep and sharp flanges, which may cause problems on most current-production turnouts.
It would be a bit of work to replace the trucks, since the ones on the car have a spring clip to hold them in, but it’s easy enough to do - just takes a little time. If you want to know the steps involved, just say so. 
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I’ve done the same thing. I also cut a rectangle out of some sheet styrene to lower the draft gear. I always keep a stock of Kadee draft gear to body mount the couplers.
If all else fails, you could use a dab of glue on the coupler area to attach to another car. Alcohol could be used to loosen the glue/free the cars from each other (if you need to). This would be a last solution to work around coupler replacement.
don’t forget to make sure the coupler height is correct
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That’s what I’ve been doing with a lot of my older stuff. They’ll also have a chart on their site telling you what all couplers to use with different brands of cars and locomotives for both body mounting them and Talgo mounting them.
I agree with Rich and others, Judy cut those boxes of the trucks and install body mount couplers. I’ve done this several times over the years and never a problem.
Regards, Chris
I would add the advice that you get a Kadee or comparable coupler height gauge, and adjust everything to match that height, rather than starting in by shimming to ‘match’ couplers on some other piece of equipment.
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Absoluely!
Questions:
What is the radius of the curve that can only be traversed with Talgo trucks?
What tools are needed to remove the couplers of the Talgo trucks?
The only tool I need is a jeweler’s saw or ultra thin razor saw.
Rich
That’s right, it’s a jeweler’s saw. Do you think the OP owns it?