I am installing Walthers DCC ready Code 83 turnouts in my new yard. They are operated with Tortoise machines. I am applying diluted white glue to the ballast, be even being extremely careful, when the glue dries I find the turnouts do not throw well. Must be doing something wrong.
Welcome to the forum and to the frustration. Careful is the word, but even then it is hard. Even the slightest bit of glue or moisture that produces swelling of any part will do that. I am using Humpyard levers in some places because they are less fussy.
My general ballasting technique is very old-school. First, I spread the ballast dry where I want it to go. Then, I saturate it with a spray bottle of “wet” water (2 drops detergent added). Finally, I apply a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water (one can also use matte medium, but I’m too cheap[:)]) with an eyedropper. I do the same thing at turnouts, except I (1) am very careful not to put too much ballast down, and 2) avoid getting glue on top of the ties or rail. If that happens, I wipe it up quick. I am also careful to move the points by hand a bunch of times after the ballast dries to make sure I still have free movement. On rare occasions I may have to come back and clean off the point tips and contacts, but not as a general rule.
DON’T ballast around the points or throwbar. If you look at prototype switches, the ballast is thinner here, too.
The following is theory only, not from experience:
I intend to ballast everywhere else first. This is for practice. Then I will go back to the turnouts. Place, shape, &c the ballast as normal but with all due caution. Then - before getting out the glue - test the turnout. Pick out any pieces of ballast that get in the way. Use all the control mechanisms you have available to see if the turnout operates properly. Only then should you glue anything down. I will use an eyedropper rather than a sprayer in order to control where the glue goes. While the glue is still wet, try to operate the turnout again. Check for anything that sticks while you can still un-stick it. Clean off the points where rails touch, pivots, &c if you detect any problems. Then let everything dry. Try to operate the turnout again. Debug or mechanically repair anything necessary. Do only one turnout at a time so you can get practice at it (and thereby only put one expensive piece of machinery at risk).
I should mention that I will have a manual throw made of oversized (O scale?) parts that is intended to be kid-finger-friendly. Naturally small parts and electrical components may not take well to this regimen.
what Tom Diehl said !!! [#ditto]
Place tape over the throwbar, any little lever that the manufacturer might have included for actuation, and the point rails, including past the frog. Use at least 1.5" tape. Then pour away, glue away. Once you lift the tape, you could carefully add a teaspoon of ballast closer to the no-go zone, but not much. Really careful with any fixative, too.
Essentially, do not ballast within 3/4" of the throwbar and mechanism/actuator, and withiin the same distance of any point rail pivots. I’d leave the frog unballasted, too.
Let me add further corroboration to Tom Dieh’ls answer. If you checck photos of rhe prototype you’ll see that not only is there a minimum of ballast at the throwbar but, frequently at the forgs. The reason at the throwbars is fairly self evident but I’ve never figured out a reason for the lack around the frogs.