HOW do you block a DC layout?

My question is simple, HOW do you block a DC layout so 2 locomotives or more can be operated at the same time and at different speeds and in forward and reverse with 2 power packs?

Here are some details on why I need to do this:

  1. I will soon have 2 locomotives, one is on order and will be here this week.

  2. I need one loco. it is an SD unit, to run the train around the mainline oval on my island layout.

  3. I need the other loco. it is a GP unit, to be the switcher to transfer rolling stock form one yard siding to another using the turnouts/switches that make up my yard ladder and stage the cars on the main line for the SD unit to connect to haul around the main line.

  4. I would like to use both power packs. One will operate the main line loco., the other the yard loco., switches.turnouts.

As you can see both locomotives will need to be able to operate at different speeds and in forward and reverse at different times.

When I have asked the question of how to run two locomotives on a DC powered layout I get the same answer: “block it”, but no one elaborates on how to do so and I have gotten no where on how to do so. Well now I am asking: HOW to block it? I need some type of easy to understand/read diagram or other reliable resource to look at that will show me how to do this.

Thank you.

Sounds like at it’s simplest form you need two “blocks” one to run your main line and one for the yard. that is easy to do. You have to separate the power so that each block has it’s own power ( and power pack). to do this use plastic rail joiners at the point that the yard starts,if there are more than one entrance to the yard then plastic joiners will have to be used at every point where the yard contacts the main line, this keeps the power from each block from going into the other block. Then hook one of your power packs to the main line block, and hook the other power pack to the yard. You will still have the option of running an engine between blocks, just make sure you have both power packs running in the same direction as the engine passes from one block to the other. If you have both engines in the same block they will both react to the power pack in that block This is describes in it’s simplest terms and more complex solutions exist but it will do what you want

The answer is to block it. It couldn’t be easier. All you need is some switches by Atlas.

https://secure.atlasrr.com/mod1/items.asp?Cc=HN862&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=

click on the link and then click on electrical components and then HO switch controls.

If scroll down to the bottom of the page you’ll need 1 Controller switch. You’ll see a “a” and a “b” spot to connect both power packs. Then you will need at least 1 of the selector switches. Each piece of track that is a “block” or power district or zone is connected to the selector. The selector determines which power pack is controlling what track or “block”. You can connect a series of the selector switches to create more blocks. Any good hobby shop should have these.

Very important: make sure each block is electrically isolated. In other words you must separate the blocks by putting a plastic rail joiner in between each block or cut a gap in rail.

I’m sure other will recommend different ways but this is the way I accomplished block control in DC.

Good Luck, Derek

Edit and update, I found an old pic to show you.

IMG_0624

One detail I did not mention, but do not think it makes a whole lot of difference, is I am using Bachmann nickel silver EX track. I understand it may require some drilling through the plastic rail bed if I have to connect wires directly to the rails.

Will plastic rail joiners work wiht the EZ track? Or does this complicate things?

With the description could I get away with using only one power pack with a different modification, but still run both locos. at the same time, in different directions and at different speeds?

A previous answer i received from someone, no one from here, is use a twin. But again I was frustrated by the lack of that person elaborating as to how to do this. If i have to use both power packs I have no problem with that, especially with the application I am wanting to operate.

Unless I receive additional info. it looks like option one is the best way to go, for now.

Thank you, but keep the advice coming.

So…How big of a layout are we talking?

Tom

Hope this helps more, Derek

Right now it is 4’ x 8’. No plans to expand it, yet.

I am starting small with enough locos. and rolling stock to fill the space in between the oval track as a rail yard. The rolling stock is all advertising that started as a Hy-Vee train set. Hy-vee is a grocery store chain based in Iowa and located mainly throughout the mid west. The train set is from 1996. In fact 1996 is the number on the SD locomotive. Most of the original rail cars are have various Kraft products advertised on them, one car is a Log Cabin Syrup. I have since purchased a pink Gerber baby food reefer, a reefer with Heinz products advertised on it another reefer with Eggo advertised on it and a news print car. I also have 2 grain cars, one has Maxwell House Coffee advertised on it and the other has Hy-Vee brand butter on it.

The original set is an IHC with a Mehano locomotive. The cars purchased in addition are a mixture of IHC others. I think a couple of them may be Tyco. All of the cars and the loco. have been kit bashed and modified to use knuckle couplers, better quality trucks and wheels.

The new loco. I purchased is an Athearn Dakota and Iowa Railroad, or D&I, GP50. D&I is operated out of Sioux Falls, South Dakota and they have a yard in my city, Sioux City, Iowa.

The original train set was willed to me from my father in law.

I am done kit bashing and modifieing rolling stock and locomotives. Going froward the car and loco will already have knuckle couplers or i won’t use it. The most I’ll do is if it has plastic wheels i’ll swap it out with metal.

To begin with all of my rail cars that are advertising related are not prototypical and have no real use in such a layout. That is why it will strictly be a rail yard with nothing but advertising rolling stock hauled by either the D&I or the Hy-Vee loco. Both loco’s are local to my region and this advertising yard layout will strictly be for fantasy and fun.

The next rolling stock purchases will be from my l

I started in MR much the same way the OP did with a shop rite train set. As to the EZ track the plastic joiners should work but you may find it hard to remove the built in metal joiners. You might want to just cut a gap in the rails with a dremel cut off bit. Be sure to file the edges of the cut smooth to avoid derailmrnt

I gotta ask then: Is DCC not an option at this point? The reason for asking is that with two-cab operation: The smaller the layout, the smaller your blocks will be and the more toggle switch throwing that will be required. You’ll pretty much be glued to your control panel on your layout if you’ll be moving rolling stock across those blocks frequently.

Now I have no problem with you sticking with DC. I’m just wondering if DCC would make it easier and more enjoyable for you in your circumstance. Since you only have/will have 2 locomotives, conversion would be less costly than down the road - i.e. should you want to go that route.

My [2c]…

Tom

Or, you could convert to DCC and forget the blocks.

Rich

I have to agree with this quote from Rich, after being in the hobby for about 55yrs and strictly a DC user,although I have a 3cab layout roughly 25x55 with a double track main line it entailed a large amount of wiring to accomplish that, it would have been so much easier had it been DCC…

Cheers, to you on whatever you decide to do.

Frank

I, too, would suggest that you consider DCC. When I returned to the hobby after a long absence, I thought DCC was something better suited to large, complex layouts. After building my own small layout, I realized that once one gets beyond a simple loop of track, DCC has great advantages. As Tom said above, block wiring and DC cab operations get very tedious if the blocks are too small, as they are on many small layouts.

Yes, DCC is out of the question right now. Mainly because of the expense. I have had enough frustrations with not receiving complete information or receiving inaccurate information from sources i thought i could trust along with other challenges with building this small layout. It almost got to the point where i was ready to peak it in, cut my loses and give up on this me hobby altogether. I don’t need to add to the frustration of trying to work with DCC right now until i get more experience with what i have.

I don’t know what sort of info you’ve gotten from friends or sources but DCC REALLY isn’t all that complicated - or it doesn’t have to be. In fact, I started out with hooking up a rudimentary Bachmann E-Z Command DCC system (that I bought for $53 in 2005) to my 4 x 8 with only two wires and was running two locomotives independently within minutes. It can be THAT simple.

I’ve migrate to a more sophisticated DCC system since then but I still only have one block for my 4 x 8 layout. Even with the E-Z Command and its limitations, I had a BLAST using it for the year that I had it. DCC made operating trains - for me - that much more fun.

Tom

With DCC doesn’t every thing that runs on electricity HAVE TO BE decoded? Whether it is a turnout with a remote to every locomotive operated on the layout? With adding decoders to the locomotives doesn’t the interior of the loco. have to be able to house the decoder and have it correctly connect to the motor?

No, it doesn’t. You can operate your turnouts just like you do with DC. Or, you can operate them with ground throws. If you want to you can operate your turnouts via your DCC throttle but it isn’t necessary. Personally, I would find that too cumbersome and would prefer either manual ground throws or switch machines run on a separate electrical bus.

Yes, but with many of the newer locomotives, this can be as simple as a plug 'n play install using a NMRA 8-pin plug or socket that comes with the locomotive. Lights, motor, and track picks are all conveniently hooked up through the NMRA connection. If room is tight (like with my Walthers SW1 switcher), you can often use smaller decoders (e.g an N- or Z-scale) inside a HO locomotive.

For steamers, there’s usually plenty of room in the tender. With diesels, it really depends on the size of the locomotive. With your SD and Geep, I’m sure there would be plenty of room for a decoder. Depending on the model, there may even be a drop-in decoder.

Tom

No, you only need to use DCC for your locomotives. You can do more, but everything else is just an elaboration on a theme. You can do it but you do not need that. Keep your switches simple!

No, these DCC chips are quite small, most newer locomotives already have a PC board with a place to plug in the DCC chip. On my subway cars, there is a dummy pluck to remove, and to plug in the DCC thingie.

That said, I only have one LION and want to run eight trains at once. Thus I have built something different.

ROAR

You have already received misleading information in this very thread about DC block control.

First, I’ll address the question of DC vs DCC. For the specific scenario you describe - one train circling an oval on autopilot on a 4x8 while another switches the yard or spurs while mostly staying clear the autopilot train - control of both trains by one person is problemmatic no matter what control system you use. How long does it take for the train to make a lap on the oval? How many minutes or seconds between needs for the main by the switcher? What I am trying to point out is that your operational scenario may be impractical - but that depends on the actual track plan.

The big advantage of DCC is being able to operate mulitple trains on shared trackage without worrying about blocks and getting blocks selected. How important this flexibility is depends on how often the switcher needs to share or use the main. The other advantage of DCC is the ability to really use and enjoy sound-equipped locomotives down the road.

Cost - since you already have the 2 power packs for DC - is going to hinge on whether or not you want a second DCC throttle for a second operator. For one person operations, the $160 Power Cab or a Zephyr is sufficient. The second throttle is going to push you close to $250 total. DC might cost you anoth

One of my locomotives is a Mehano SD40-2 manufactured in about 1996. The other is an Athearn GP50 manufactured in about 2008. Should both locos. have the ability to add a decoder chip in them, where it is unplug/plug and play or cut and splice wires together?

The Athearn GP50 should have an 8-pin plug or socket (2 rows of four) but you’ll have to remove the shell to double-check. Worse case is that you’ll have to hard-wire the decoder, which isn’t all that difficult if you’re handy with a soldering iron.

More than likely the SD40-2 will not have the NMRA plug. However, as long as the motor is isolated from the frame and you have room under the hood, you can hard-wire a decoder into it.

Tom