I spent the better part of Sunday playing train. I have decided to move forward, well at least move, with the layout. My benchwork is now level in all areas and in good working condition. I have decided that I want to use foam to create topography. My plan is to begin with a 1” portion on which the track will be placed. After reading through the few books and magazines I have I am fairly certain I will use liquid nails for projects for the cork roadbed and flex track, unless someone posts a more suitable option.
I do need your help with the track that is currently in place. I have a few feet, about 50, of track atop the plywood. I need to take this up. The cork is attached with white glue; the track is soldered and spiked. Any suggestions? Please!
As of now I am thinking I need to unsolder the joints, use a putty knife to pop up the cork and spikes then remove the spikes with pliers. Is there an easier method? Maybe I don’t need to unsolder the track? Could it be possible to keep large sections in tact? It is going back down in the same place.
I wouldn’t recommend pulling up the track with a putty knife, especially if you plan on reusing it. Pull the spikes with pliers then the track should come right up with minimal damage. The cork may have to come out with the putty knife, depending on how well the glue has taken hold. Attempting to soak out the white glue with water will probably damage your plywood base. If the glue really took hold, the roadbed may be a total loss.
The biggest problem with not unsoldering the rails is that a long piece of track is very hard to handle and can easily be prone to damage from handling.
First, have you successfully petitioned the Federal Railway Agency for abandonment of certain routes? Have you notified all appropriate state and local agencies, and complied with the Railroad Retirement Act in giving your little people the pink slip? Have you consulted with Rails-to-Trails in submitting your application?
For actual track removal Tim Allen-style I would use the following (top of list is most preferred tool)
jack hammer
pry bar and hammer
sawz all
Oh, you wanted to reuse your track? Sorry, can’t help you there.
In reality, you had to trim one rail on the flex track for the curves when you first laid it. So unless it’s going to be used for a similar curve on the new layout, you are going to be snipping and replacing a lot of ties. And if you do have a similar curve, just saw the whole roadbed out and reuse it intact. Only the still straight sections of flex track are going to be easily reusable as flex track. With white glue, I doubt the cork roadbed is going to come up intact. First try wetting it by applying damp/wet paper towels to the glue seam. That might soften it enough to come up. Easiest glue for later track and cork reuse as I understand it is a very thin layer of latex caulk.
Last, those manufacturers are depending on you to keep their production going by buying more track and cork roadbed!
Most track that does come up, I commit to the deep as it wouldn’t be good for much else as when I affix the track it’s down good and properand the paint applied takes the flex out of it. Saying that I use the rails for guard rails on bridges and tunnels.
Tools used i the process is 25mm X-acto snap blade, Dremel tool and sharp 1/2" and 3/4" chisels.
Aaack! This isn’t what I was wanting to hear.
Okay, so there really isn’t any reason to be gentle as it is not likely any of it will be worth much in the end. [banghead]
If the track is only spiked (not glued) to the roadbed, if you’re careful about removing the spikes you put in, it should come up cleanly and be reusable. Make sure to unsolder the rail joints to make the track sections easier to handle.
Ballast glue and paint are the killers. If your glue was sub grade or watered down then the track maybe salvagable.
If it comes up all warped then you may have to consider modeling a Canadian National spur line. The effect will be very prototypical especially if you’re missing ties.
If nothing else, salvage the rail. It will make good carloads (cut into scale 39 foot lengths,) MW department scenery (on a spare rail rack, or in a neatly-stacked pile next to the MW gang’s speeder shack,) or relay rail (two long lengths along the right-of-way, along with new ties and kegs of spikes.) It can also be used to hand-lay your own turnouts and specialwork.
Of course, if you are gentle, you can lift entire sections of flex track for reuse. Much of my staging track is re-laid flex track - some of it relaid for the fourth or fifth time.
If it’s going back down in the same place, why take it up? Are you planning to rip up the plywood? Once you ballast the track, you won’t be able to tell new construction from old anyway.
