how do you uncouple your rolling sick from each other or from your locomotive? do you use a hand held magnetic uncoupler tool? or the magnets placed in between the rails? if not either of those methods, how? i am asking to get an idea on how to do so for my layout to get an ideas on what will work best.
I use a special set of tools that my uncle gave me I’m not sure what they are, but they are useful. If I’m running rapido equipped rolling stock I use the five fingered switcher.
Wooden Shish-kabob skewer. Insert the pointed end between the knuckles and turn clockwise, they come right apart! I paid ~$2 for a bag of 100. (Note: This won’t be doable if you run passenger cars with diaphragms between them…)
Most of the the time I lift up the back wheels of one car with my hand so that it clears the coupler and pull the cars apart. Another method is to use a bamboo skewer and press it against the coupler pin so that the coupler opens. You can then move the train forward to separate the cars.
Tom
Since I enjoy hands free uncoupling and the delayed uncoupling feature of the KD coupler I use their magnet.
I mainly use the wooden Shish-kabob skewers.
I have tried the magnets on the tool that you put between the cars and they are a pain to get right.
I also have a few under the track 308 magnets in harder to reach areas.
Bamboo Skwer Simple and effective
A circa 1950’s era soldering pick.
where did you find the bamboo skewers? I’d three a certain size?
I use three different methods.
Wood skewers, found on any grocery store shelf, Kadee magnets, or by hand.
Rich
Operating all Kadee or (a few) Kadee clones, I use fixed magnets, retractable magnets (on hinges under ties) and, in dire emergencies, the 0-5-0.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I’ve carefully placed fixed magnets in yards and electromagnets on mains, and I typically use them even if it means running cuts of cars a bit out of their way. Out in the middle of nowhere, most of the time I just lift up the end of a car and put it down uncoupled.
I’ve got to work on my skewer-skills.
True dat,But,with the higher end freight cars with their finer details and delicate steps(Athearn RTR) I would need to think long and hard on poking a stick or my personal favorite a small flat tip screwdriver between the cars…Shudder
Little wood skewers I mean not bamboo I get them in the dollar in 100 packs. I have 2 packs my heirs may get them when I pass on
Wood skewers, sharp number 2 pencil or a Rix uncoupling tool. I’ve recently tried a yellow micro brush as suggested by someone else here that I don’t remember [:$]
Joe
Edit: It was ACRR46 who first suggested the micro brushes
Unfounded worry. I’ve been operating on a layout for years where we only use skewers and I have never seen a car damaged by them. This layout moves 300+ cars per session and has operated pretty much monthly since about 1997.
Joe,I must have missed that…That does sound feasible.I might give it a whirl and see how it does on my BB,Walthers or Trainman cars.
At $27-30.00(street) a pop for my higher end cars I’ll stay with the hands off uncoupling-better safe then cussing…[:O]
i am also thinking if they are long enough round, not flat, tooth picks would work. they would likely work better with flay need cars our cats that are not that tall. between 2 reefers would probably be too tall for a tooth pick to reach the couplers.
oh my isnt auto spell/correct fun to use on s smart phone when replying to a forum board. my last reply is a good example of that. if you need me to clarify what i was trying to say, let me know.
I have no idea what that means. But a bundle of bamboo skewers (lifetime supply) is a dollar or two at almost any grocery store.