I’ve been very successful mounting my Pecos under the table, but I can only use 1/2" of foam on top of the 1/4" plywood. This is perfect for the extended pins, yet I see these layouts using 2" + foam. To whoever uses this much foam, where do your machines go? Please enlighten me!!!
These lay outs are probley useing the tortoise switch machines,they just make an longer wire.
JIM
Rix makes a Flat Under Layout Mounting Bracket and a vertical one called Rix Rax.
I mount my Peco’s right to the bottom of the turnout, and then cut the hole in the foam from above. This is the design for the Peco turnout / Peco machine combination in HO. You’re in N-gauge, right? Do the Peco’s have mounting holes at the ends of the ties where the points are?
Mine came already mounted as an extention off my palm - i.e. my finger. Works pretty reliably with my Atlas Snap switches. I haven’t decided yet whether I’m eventually going to go with switch machines or ground throws.
Tom
[:D] I’m right there, too. My new layout is much more accessible than the first, so there is no real excuse for not thinking ahead, and simply reaching to flick the points. It may not be “realistic”, but it is reliable and cheap.
Depends on which Switch Machine you are using.
I’ve used Atlas, True Scale, Rix, NJI, and now Hankcraft’s. I also use RIX-RAK’s exclisively.
Their 001. 002. 005,vertical throw rod’s are several inches long and can be cut to length. Mounting easy, adjustable, and very reliable. Good Hobby shops carry them.
http://www.rixproducts.com/6280001.htm
http://www.rixproducts.com/6280005.htm
I have installed Peco switches. My foam in some places is 3-4" thick. I either cut away from the bottom and to the outside,as in this photo or cut from underneath using a Forstner type bit. When installed fill it in with whatever you deem appropriate. Depends on you.
Pecos, from below ( Both HO and HOn30), the same as everyone above. I also use the special plastic inserts in the hole. I do not have any idea who makes these. I buy them when I find them.
Peter Smith, Memphis
What do you mean by the “special plastic inserts”?
Well, I just looked in my box marked switch machines and found I had one of these inserts left. It goes by the name INVIS-A-Mount. There is no address of the manufacturer on the package. The mount consists of a plastic plate which attaches to the under side of the table ( In my case , 1/2 inch Homosote glued to 1/2 inch plywood roadbed). This plate is molded to a piece of plastic tubing that sticks up through the hole that you must drill in the table ( roadbed) for the brass rod that throws the switch. The plastic tube is sized to be the exact size of the hole diameter that Peco recommends. There are holes in the plate to attach the four tabs on the Peco switch so that the switch machine is attached to this plate rather than the switch itself. Extra long brass tubing is included in case your table (roadbed) is thicker than normal. I like this insert for three reasons:
- it is easier to mount the Switch machine to the plastic plate than the switch itself
- It is helpful in centering the throw bar correctly.
- it makes a very neat installation.
The first time I obtained these inserts was from a mail order company in California. The second time I just happened to run into them in a small hobby shop in Harrington Park, NJ.
I doubt if Peco manufactures or supplies them.
PS; If I could ever figure out how to post diagrams or pictures I would not have used a thousand words to try to describe these inserts.
Peter Smith, Memphis
I like my Tortoise switch machines. They’re easy to mount–I just drill the large hole for the throw rod, then the smaller ones to mount the machine itself. The only thing that can be tricky is to make sure the machine is oriented the right way–if it’s not parallel to the rails, it can jam or not throw correctly. Once set up, it’s simple to screw the machine to the layout.
All of mine are hand throws
I use cheaper atlas code 83 switches and tortoise switch machines, I just add longr wire but at times I have seen people cut the bottom plywod and some foam away so they didnt have to make longer wire which would have been simpler.
All of my switch actuators (twin-coil KTM electrics, and modified slide switch manuals) are mounted on brackets at the aisle edge of my layout, accessible through the fascia for manual operation and with the fascia panels removeable for maintenance. Linkage to the turnouts varies, fabricated from such things as paper clips, fishing line and scrap brass rail. The final link is always a re-bent paper clip which passes through a vertical 1/8" brass tube (including expended ball pen cartridges from the old days before plastic.) The top of the tube is about 1/2" from the throw rod, with the paper clip bent to suit. The bottom of the paper clip, below the tube, is bent parallel to the fascia and connected to the actuator.
I have discovered that having all of the electricals at the edge of the table is a lot easier on the lower back than having them under the roadbed. The mechanicals are much easier to install, and not that much more complex than those required for a direct under-the-roadbed mounting.
Chuck
i usually sneak up on them from behind, then pounce quickly, can mount them on the first try in most cases…also works just as well for the wife!
I use both Scale Shops screw-drive machines, and a worm-&-gear unit from Railway Engineering called Rotor Motor The Scale Shops machines are mounted to the foam with 3M permanent foam mounting tape. The Rotor Motors are screwed to a 2.5x3" piece of 1/8" thick craft wood, then glued to the foam with Liquid Nails latex-based foam glue. I may try that Gorilla Glue on the next Rotor Motor I mount…