Using artists oil paints, it’s easy to pick up a bit of color on the tip of a wire or a toothpick to apply rust spots.
Search the model train magazine index for articles by M.R. Snell / Matt Snell. He describes some good weathering techniques.
I believe that I would stay away from cotton balls or q-tips. Too easy to transfer little fibers from the cotton to the work piece.
Well last night I stopped at the drug store and picked up some wedge shaped cosmetic sponges and some cosmetic applicators. I saw a video where Cody Grivno used those. Didn’t have a chance last night to try them out but hopefully tonight I will sit down at the workbench and see what I can do.
If it comes out halfway decent I will post a picture. If it looks like like hell…well, you figure it out! [:D]
Jim Six is quite well known for weathering techniques and has made extensive use of Q-Tips. Do a search for Jim Six and Q-Tip weathering and you should find all sorts of interesting ideas.
IIRC, he’s just using them to wipe down washes. He’s not dabbing on rust with them.
Steve S
True, but what I was thinking was that scrubbing washes around would be more likely to cause a Q-Tip to disintegrate and leave fibers on the model than applying rust spots. Jim doesn’t seem to be having that problem, so I’d think they’d be safe enough for rust. Q-Tips are also useful for adding streaks below rust spots added using other methods.
Mr Soeborg was nice enough to create a new thread in this forum here with some info concerning his varnish/powder mix, which he states should be the consistancy of thick paint.
Fair enough, I’m thinking latex house paint thick - NOT Drylock water-proofing thick. Hopefully I’ll be able to experiment this weekend.
Actually, having an old Athearn PS covered hopper (and powder chalk, and rust paint, AND cosmetic sponges from some other modeling project), I should try the other techniques mentioned in this thread too (except the brunt sienna artist oil drop/drag down with turpentine-laden brush - never got that to look good)