I want to put knuckle couplers on this smooth-running RS-1. It’s a made-in-Japan Atlas Yellow Box Kato model. It has these goofy horn couplers on it and when I went to see about swapping them out, I became dumbfounded and nonplussed. What is this? And how am I supposed to remove the coupler from it?
It just looks like a plastic peg with a flange. There’s not even a “box” around or over it; you can see the spring of the coupler curling around it.
Do I just grip it with needlenose pliars and pull? Pull and twist? Is there some arcane incantation that I should recite while burning dried banana chips? I’ve never seen this before, not sure how to proceed.
Rich, if you’re talking about the black thing looping around the post at mainly 10 o’clock (I’ve indicated it below with a green arrow), that’s not a clip, it’s the coupler spring. There’s nothing covering the coupler spring, no box or anything.
It has been a long time since the conversion to Kadee couplers for my two RS3’s, and I don’t remember much.
After getting rid of the original coupler, a common Kadee #5 was the replacement. The coupler box needed some minor filing to fit. A 2-56 screw holds it together.
It’s difficult to tell from the photo if the coupler is mounted to the plastic body shell or on the metal frame. I just took a look at my Atlas S-2, and it has the same type of “pin” attachment, but it’s securing a Kadee coupler along with a draught gear box that’s not a Kadee product.
I used smallish pliers to gently grasp the pin and it pulled out easily.
If yours are similar (they certainly look similar) they may be useful in securing Kadee couplers.
If not, you may need to drill and tap, which will allow you to secure the Kadee coupler boxes using suitably-sized screws.
Well I pulled the pin out. That was easy. But the coupler’s spring action is too wide to come forward out of the hole. I may end up having to cut it apart to remove it and I decided I need to do a little more recon, and make sure I have the Kadee couplers handy that I want to use. I’m wondering if it even needs the screw, because if I can get a Kadee coupler in there, I would think the pin would hold it like it did the other. It’s pretty snug.
Using the pin to mount a Kadee coupler may lead to some complications. My first concern would be coupler sag. However, if the spring does have sufficient tension to hold the coupler level, then I would be worried that the coupler may not rotate freely. Finally, if the coupler rotates directly on the pin, I would be worried about the pin coming loose over time. It will repeatedly be pushed and pulled forward and back as the car moves. Sometimes it will be under tension from pulling. Sometimes it will be under the opposite tension as the train slows down or descends a grade.
It may take a little work to install a Kadee coupler box but the installation will be bullet proof.
That’s great. I would suggest that you have a coupler height gauge handy. If you don’t already have one, Kadee sells two versions. One is metal. It will cause a short if used on live track. The other has a plastic body so you can use it anywhere. I recommend the plastic one:
The Kadee whisker coupler is the one to use. Instead of installing a Kadee coupler box I’ve found an ordinary #56 washer under the pin or screw head (so far I’ve only used screws) will support a Kadee 148 adequately against coupler droop, assuming there’s enough vertical space to accept the washer thickness.
Mike, I was glad to hear this since I actually have some of those on hand. But upon seeing Kevin’s note about conductivity, it sounds like I might need to use an insulated coupler because the frame is metal. At least I assumed it is and it felt like it. I’m at work right now so I’ll have to look more closely later.
One thing I worry about… there is already a hole for the plastic friction-mounted pin, and it looks larger than the only tap I have, so getting a box on there will be a challenge. Oh well, I love buying more tools, just don’t love waiting for them to arrive. [|)]
I went and looked at my two Atlas GP-7s from the same period (both in 1949 EMD Demonstrator scheme). Looks like what I did is on one engine, I put in the gold Kadee spring gizmo with the coupler, put a cover from a Kadee coupler box over that, and then used the pin to hold it all together. On the other, I did the same thing but used a screw. I’d guess a 2-56, but not sure. Probably just something from the junk bin in my toolbox. I’ve had these a long time, so far so good.
The frames on these older Atlas ones are metal. Since I always run these together, I used plastic dummy couplers (Accurail couplers, same head size and shape as Kadee 5’s) at the rear of each unit. I don’t know if there would be an issue using metal couplers between them or not.
I have worked several of these type coupler installations and would highly recommend the use of the Kadee coupler box to enclose whatever Kadee coupler you chose, whisker or traditional #5. The frame is metal and even though wires run from the trucks to the motor, the Kadee coupler box will preclude any possible short circuit developing.
I have used both screws, 2-56, and the coupler pin installed by Atlas, and both work well.[C):-)]
I checked my Atlas RS-1 from that period and found that I had put the Kadee box into the slot after triming the ears off of the sides of the box and put the friction pin right back in. It’s been in place for at least 12 years without incident.
Bachmann EZ Mate II are plastic and would work like Kadee 148 whisker couplers. Not as good quality but effective. Not sure how Kadee is going to make insulating whisker couplers. Mind you, the insulated versions aren’t always necessary anyway.
This worked for me. Except I used a 2-56 screw and also trimmed that top edge off the Kadee coupler box’s top front.
Be careful not to run the 2-56 tap through or dent the top side of the walkway. This never happen to me and may never can happen at all, but maybe it could with somebody not careful.
Yellow Box Atlas RS1 has a metal frame and metal pads for the coupler.
Yellow Box Atlas RS3 has a metal frame, BUT the coupler is mounted on the plastic walkway and is a stupid design. The coupler will flex up or down depending on the load.
Black Box Atlas RS3 has a plastic walkway a metal frame and metal coupler mounting pads. Much better.
I would think anybody in HO Scale should have the minimum of taps and drill bits to be,
00-90 tap, #60 tap drill, #55 clear drill.
0-80 tap, #56 tap drill, #51 clear drill.
1-72 tap, #53 tap drill, #47 clear drill.
2-56 tap, #50 tap drill, #42 clear drill.
And an assortment (length and head type) of brass screws to match the taps. Also throw in some steel self tapping screws.
I also have TAPER, PLUG and BOTTOMING type of taps in the four above sizes.
I’m trying to put all these data points together. What does this mean with regard to Kevin’s suggestion earlier of a 20 series Kadee? I’m not sure what “pads” are (I’ll look it up), but if they’re metal it sounds like I should use the nonconductive couplers.
Right. It’s a matter of budgeting. I’ve had to start from zero – no tools or supplies – and I’m running down to the hobby shop or the hardware store every weekend for tools, track, cork, wire, drill bits, taps, a soldering iron --every next thing I need. It adds up. But thanks for the recommended list… that’s useful.
I’ll ask my train store guy to show me some of these and see if he recommends them. I’m a little leary only because I would want high quality on a loco, especially such a nice loco.
