How do “uncoupler” tracks work? And do encoupler tracks only work on knuckle couplers?
Need a bit more detail here, starting with which scale you’re addressing. Magnetic uncoupling of Micro-Trains (N scale) or Kadee (HO) couplers is very different from the process used by Lionel 3-rail O.
In HO, there were some attempts to make magnetically-uncoupled horn-hook couplers. They have long since been consigned to the dustbin of history.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I have a bunch of mechanical uncoupler gadgets for horn-hook couplers. I’ve even got one controlled by an electromagnet. Yes, they belong in the dustbin of history, but I’m such a pack rat that I can’t bring myself to toss them.
So, what kind of couplers are you talking about? The Kadee couplers have a piece which hangs down, kind of like a brake hose, but it’s attached to the coupler. This is made of metal, and the uncoupler magnets simply pull these gently outward. The adjacent car, on which the coupler faces the other direction, has its coupler pulled gently the other way. If there is no other stress on the couplers, they will separate side-to-side and release. If there is stress, like when the cars are being pushed or pulled, the force which pulls them sideways isn’t strong enough, and they stay coupled. (That’s the theory. Theory being what it is, it’s a good idea not to use a permanent magnet uncoupler on your main line if you don’t want random uncoupling.)
“Uncoupler tracks” are a rarity today. They were tracks that came wth train sets many years ago, but are no longer used, AFAIK. For N-scale, there are at least two types of couplers being used - the forst type used and which are still in production on many inexpensive “trainset” quality cars are the “Rapido” type which were introduced by Arnold Rapido with the first N-scale trains marketed in the US in the 1960s. These uncoupled by forcing one of the linked couplers up intil it disengages from the other coupler. This was usually accomplished with a strip of phosphor bronze shim stock forced into a shallow “hump”, which would engage a short pin molded onto the coupler. Biggest issue is that they ALWAYS uncouple, even when you don’t want them to. The couplers are also grossly oversize, and ugly.
The most common coupler in use today by N-scale modelers is the MicroTrains magnetic knuckle coupler, which uncouples by passing the coupled cars over a magnet placed between the rails. If there is slack in the coupling, the magnet will pull the knuckles open by attracting the metal “air hose” uncoupling pin of both couplers. The cars can then be pulled apart by the locomotive, all without any physical contact with the cars or the couplers.
I am using N Scale and the couplers with the “thing that hangs down like a brake hose.”. Two of you said that they are condemned to the trashcan of history, but are they still worth purchasing? I want to be able shunt cars into sidings, and I hate trying to uncouple the cars manually.
Methinks you somewhat misunderstood - the horn-hook coupler was/is an HO coupler, never produced for use with N scale equipment.
If you have typical knuckle couplers with a magnetic metal ‘brake hose’ attached to the knuckle, they are pulled open by magnets installed either under the ties or between/adjacent to the rails. Micro-trains makes an under-the-ties magnet that will even open HO couplers! With that type, you have to decide where you want to uncouple and then carve out a space under the ties for the magnet. With some others, notably small-diameter supermagnets, you can drill holes next to track that is already in place to install them once you determine that it would be nice to uncouple in a certain place.
Another method that works in both N and HO is to use a pointed object (often a shish-kebab skewer) to separate the couplers and open the knuckles. Learning to use one makes uncoupling possible anywhere you can get a hand above the track, and keeps fingerprints off the models.
Mister Beasley mentioned one problem with fixed magnets in main tracks - it’s possible to have false uncoupling. One answer is an under-the-track electromagnet. Another is to arrange an under-the-tie magnet to hinge down when not needed for uncoupling. Either one requires pre-locating and preinstalling the magnet.
This is just a rough outline of a big subject. The best thing to do is experiment, to see what works best for you.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with some hinge-down uncoupling magnets)
I think you may have misunderstood. What’s been consigned “to the dustbin of history” are the HO “horn-hook” (a.k.a. “NMRA”, a.k.a. “X2F”) couplers. The couplers you describe are the best on the market for N-scale. They’re known (I thinkl) as "MT’ or “Micro Trains” couplers, though they may (I’m not an N-scaler, so I’m not sure) be made by other companies now, like the Kadee compatible knuckle couplers which populate the HO market. Micro Trains actually used to be part of the Kadee line, but were spun off as an independent company many years ago.
If you plan on dropping cars on sidings without manually uncoupling them, you’ll need the magnet uncouplers for your sidings. As a previous poster noted, however, don’t put a permanent magnet uncoupler on the main - your trains will uncouple anytime you get any slack in the train over the magnet; embarassing, at best.
Attached is a link to a recent thread about magnetic uncoupling that might interest you.
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/148407/1645851.aspx#1645851
Bob
This is a horn-hook coupler, for those who haven’t seen them:
These used to be the standard HO scale couplers in the 1950’s and 1960’s.
To counter the “dustbin of history” theory, I must point out that Walthers still sells these, and even has horn-hook equipped trucks on sale in the latest monthly catalog:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/433-1413
And this is why we think horn-hooks are somewhat outdated:
Hopefully others may have shed some light on the various coupler types and their operation.
To spot cars on sidings, there’s a delay feature of the magnetic coupler. I’m in HO so I don’t know of the reliability of the MT delay. This requires somewhat consistant coupler installation to the specs for trip pin height and smooth swing of the coupler in it’s box. A reason for graphite lube.
In this pic you will see the magnets placed on the sidings.
The magnet is positioned at the foul point (an uncoupled car left on the magnet will not interfere w/ the adjacent track. Now you can back into the siding, stop the desired car w/ the coupler over the magnet, as you pull forward the magnet will allow uncoupling. The car can be left there or for spotting further down the siding, once the car uncouples, pull slightly forward, then back up. As you begin to back the moving coupler will swing out from the magnet and allow the couplers to touch, but not engage( no handshake). Sometimes a nudge from a skewer is needed to help the knuckles swing. Once this is done you back to the spot to place the car. Since the coupler is in the delayed swing and not coupled, pulling forward leaves the car spotted.
Since this doesn’t work as advertised most of the time, I will usually spot a car and release it w/ a skewer during switching ops.
As stated by misterB, you should avoid using pemanent magnets on the main or any track where random uncoupling may happen. Slowing or stopping over a magnet can cause the uncoupling. This is w
Actually, you can still get hornhooks in HO designed to be used with magnetic uncoupling ramps:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/620-101
Also there was a line of couplers…can’t think of the name, “Something 2000”??..that was designed to couple with either hornhooks or Kadee-type couplers. They were around in the nineties, could be they’re still in production (maybe under another name?). They coupled very well with Kadees but didn’t uncouple very well…in fact for a long time my passenger cars had the “2000” couplers on one end and Kadees on the other. Once coupled together, they never came apart regardless of grade, low spots, etc.
Good choice on the dinosaur MisterBeasley. The Parasauralophus was my favorite as a kid. Then it switched to the Stegasaurus. I wanted both as a pet. Then again I still do [:D]
To go all the way back to where I first used the phrase, the magnetic horn-hook is the item I consigned to the dustbin of history. IIRC, there was a mini-magnet, or possibly a steel slug, in the lower ‘shelf’ of the coupler, just above the mechanical trip pin.
[Edit] The Rail-Line coupler Stix linked to is not the same design as the 1960-ish ones I remember. The old ones had the magnetic material in the coupler itself - which made them even more seriously ugly.
My most recent order from Walthers, RTR hoppers slated for a kitbashing project, included horn-hook couplers in case the purchaser preferred them to the E-Z-Mates that come installed…
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Somewhere in my supply of HO equipment, I have a small container of horn-hook couplers. I was thinking of gluing them into a block to fit inside an HO gondola, and painting them a rusty color…