Hi, when doing some operations with your model trains, how can you disconnect wagons from the engines?
When I was younger (early seventies), I had probably an O Lionel train. To disconnect wagons from the rest of the train we had to make the train goes on a certain track and push a button. Is it working the same today or is it different?
To get the freight cars to ‘uncouple’, there is a small magnet that sits between the rail. If the car couplers are pushed over the magnet, the cars uncouple. Folks also use ‘swizzle’ sticks to uncouple the cars manually. Here is a link to the Kadee web site with an explanation of the process:
http://www.kadee.com/animation/c1.htm
Jim
Pretty much the same sort of idea only its magnets and no push button instead of a special track.
Most US outline cars now come standard with knuckle couplings that require a magnet to uncouple them.
So a magnet is placed under the track for this. It disappears once ballast is applied so it would be a good idea to mark where it is, I would suggest a looks like a railroad sign with a U on it or a blank white one
So you can easily find it when you need it.
There is also a magnet available that covers the OOPS! I should have put one there when I laid my track. So you don’t have rip it up to put in the magnet these are a bit harder to hide
I have also seen a shunters pole that allows you to uncouple where you don’t have a magnet but I cannot remember who makes it.
regards John
Gidday here’s part of Kadees official video…
www.youtube.com/watch?v=A51sBEm6VFA
the Rix uncoupling tool…
http://www.rixproducts.com/6280014.htm
and a previous forum thread…
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/180885.aspx?sort=DESC
Hope this is clearer than mud. [:D]
Cheers, the Bear.
In addition to the permanent magnets described above, Kadee also makes electric uncouplers that do require one to push a button just like the the Lionel uncoupler. These are useful for places like mainline track where a permanent magnet may cause unwanted uncoupling.
Enjoy
Paul
Thanks everybody so if I understand well when I want some cars to uncoupled I have to make the train goes over a special spot with a magnet and that’s where the coupling/uncoupling happens?
Exactly. As long as there’s tension on the couplers they’ll stay coupled. When the couplers go slack the magnet can pull the uncoupling pins to either side and uncouple the cars.
Ok and what do you mean exactly by “tension on the couplers”?
When the train is moving the couplers are pulling on each other. That’s tension. As long as the cars are moving the couplers keep pulling on each other. When the cars stop or slow down, even for a moment, the couplers are no longer pulling on each other. That eases the tension and the couplers go slack. For a demonstration just put your hands together like two couplers coming together. Now pull them against each other. That’s tension. When you stop pulling there’s no longer a pulling force. There’s no tension.
Wagons? Where are you in relation to the Atlantic Ocean?
Anyway, with modern American couplers (Kadee type) a magnet is mounted on the tracks maybe in the throat of a yard. These magnets like to be on straight track.
A train can be pulled across the magnets without uncoupling. A train can be pushed across the magnets without uncoupling, but if you back up and stop on the magnet then the cars will uncouple. Once uncoupled the train can back up again and the couplers will remain in the uncoupled position and shove the cars to any place that you want to spot them.
Here are a pair of track mounted magnets on my old layout. I put some light poles near the magnets tos that the LPPs (Little Plastic People) will have some light to see what they are doing, and the big 1:1 oaf at the control panel across the room can see where the magnets are.
Older trains (maybe 10 to 15 years old would have “Horn Hook” couplers which are not magnetic, but required some wire or plastic loops to effect the uncoupling. In 50 years, I have NEVER made them do anything but derail trains.
On LAYOUT of the LION, we do not use uncouplers. We do not use couplers. We use draw bars between the cars, and they cannot be uncoupled unless you take them to the bench and use a screwdriver. But then, LION runs subway trains and those do not be uncoupled.
ROAR
Because you’re in N scale here are some videos with N scale equipment, coupler demonstrations.
Thanks Burlington Northern #24, it’s very easy to understand now especially with the video on the top. Is it you on the video?
no, one fellow was an Aussie or NZ N scaler and the other fellow was IMRRO whom is an N scaler does how to videos and other stuff like that.
I use a bamboo skewer and stick the point between the coupler knuckles and twist the skewer. Used magnets on my last layout but decided not to mess with them on the current one.
In addition to using magnets to uncouple I have two cars equipped with DCC operated uncouplers.
One car has the DCC coupler on one end, the end with the brake wheel and the second car is equipped on both ends. The coupler at the brake wheel end opens and closed with the DCC address of 3 and the opposite end 4.
When a coupler is opened before you can recouple you must close it using the appropiate dcc address.
Note the wire going to the coupler.
Below is a link to get the rest of the details.
http://www.dccuncoupling.com/page1.htm
Like magnets uncoupling isn’t always perfect.
Bob
Going on the top picture a West Australian more than likely that’s a West Australian Government Railways
wheat wagon. and the one next to it looks like a dodgy brothers supposedly WAGR wagon
The yellow livery is a bit of a give away.
regards John