My new layout is in a semi-insulated loft but is still getting up to the 30s Centigrade (90s Fahrenheit).
Is this too hot?
I do have an air-conditioning unit which is stand alone and either on or off but being from the UK it’s not been that hot so I don’t generally run it. Also, because it is a loft it is has a high apex ceiling. As a result the unit just seems to cool the lower level but not the top (main) level of my layout which is probably hotter.
Should I be using it regularly or is it ok at these temperatures (I do have large expansion gaps on the rails - so large the box cars fall down them!)
I’d say you should be ok - my attic is in much the same situation and models stored up there don’t seem to be harmed. You may have problems with some power supplies overheating (my PC doesn’t like it up there at this time of year!) but that should be all. I’d be inclined to run the aircon more for your benefit when operating - the models will handle 30C+ but humans don’t like it much!
Maybe the bigger problem with attic layouts is condensation in winter and when the seasons change. My own attic gets so hot in summer, even with vent fan, and so cold in winter, that I could not imagine enjoying operating there.
Dave Nelson
My train room is in an adjoining shed that has two window AC units. I live in the Florida Keys so it gets pretty darned hot this time of year. Probably in the mid 90’s (deg) most days. Days I anticipate working (playing) on the layout I turn both window AC units on about and hour before I go in. So far (six months) I have noticed no heat related problems from track expanding/contracting issues or electronic heating issues. I did install a medium industrial fan on one wall last week just to circulate air a bit that seems to help but it is so loud I can’t hear my trains over it.
Terry
I’ve had some humidity-related issues on my layout in the past, but never heat-related. The only heat-related stuff is with myself!
When it’s too hot or too cold, I just don’t enjoy working on the layout. I expect to sweat a little bit when I’m doing some of the heavier layout work - erecting benchwork, installing backdrops, etc. - but I expect to be comfortable when I’m sitting in the work area assembling rolling stock or some such.
My layout is in a basement, and in the winter it was in the 50s with low humidity, and in the summer up into the 80s with high humidity. The humidity played havoc with the layout, and the temperature variations played havoc with me. A humidifier in the winter and a de-humidifier in the summer fixed the layout problems, and adding heat and A/C to the basement fixed my problems.
The trackwork is indeed sensitive to temperature fluctuations as it will expand and retract quite surprisingly,so running your air conditioning intermittently may have more adverse effect than running it all the time or not at all.Regular temperatures,even a little high,won’t hurt your trackwork but fluctuations will.
Huge track gaps,depending on where they are,may just impair your operations and still not be so beneficial to your trackwork.Smaller (.015-.020 in.) but more frequent (every two to three feet) gaps should be okay.Since your layout is already built,you simply take a fine file (or Dremel cutting disk or fine metal saw) and cut gaps right through your rails.You may have to add a few feeders here and there but this will allow you to repair your too wide gaps and have reliable operations,with only a slight click (prototypical) of the wheels passing over them.
Motors are also affected by higher temperatures so lighter duty is more likely the solution here.Model locos don’t have fans and their shells keep warmth confined within so touching them occasionally to check heat is a good thing.Having them pull more moderate loads for shorter periods would certainly improve their longevity.
The power supply is probably the most temperature sensitive component of the layout as it produces heat of its own to start with,and this heat is proportional to it’s duty.The more locos you run,the hotter it gets.Having it installed in a cooler environment is recommended so that it can dissipate this heat.Removing it’s cover could also help but be sure nothing can fall on it and touch it’s internal components.
My temporary layouts in my new train building with metal roof. Get’s about 100 degrees on a sunny day. I do see the expansion in the track. I had to put 3 times the track spikes
down to controle this.An AC unit would be great, but you really need to get the hot air out first. Do you have a window up there to put a fan in?You really need air flow in a place like that.
NO NO NO !!! do not remove the covers of power supplies , and certainly never have them plugged in while the cover is removed if you feel some need to remove the cover .
sorry to jump on you jacktal , but people could get hurt by sticking fingers etc. in open power supplies , and if something did fall in there’s a possibility of fire . better to be safe and leave the covers on , they’re there for a purpose
I’ll add my [2c], but by reinforcing ereimer and Jacktal. Large gaps serve no purpose, except to accelerate wear on your track at those gaps, with the wheels, and with the rod and valve-gear pins. Gaps, by all means in your conditions, but not large ones. Just make a few more of them.
As for altering the intended and engineered function of electrical devices…do so at your peril. Your insurance company will thank your for making it easier to deny your claim when you submit it…you know, after the fire.
Kathy,I am building my round the walls layout in sections in my metal work shed…The temperature gets into the 90s with high humidity and so far on the section I have 75% finish I have not suffered any track damage from heat and I don’t use gaps…
Large gaps is a large NO NO…
At 3/16",your gaps are at least three times the size needed and will create problems with your locos and rolling stock wheels.Derailments,premature wear and breakages are to be expected.At 1/16",gaps would still be large but acceptable.They’d allow expansion of your benchwork and wouldn’t impair your operations.
Now fixing this may be a little hard to do,depending on how your tracks are held to the benchwork and the degree of completion (ballasted or not).The type of tracks (sectional or flex) will also require different solutions.I know some modellers have filled gaps with epoxy but I haven’t tried this.My personal choice is filling with solder and filing to shape,but this has to be done with great caution and patience to avoid melting the plastic ties.
If you look at the expansion coefficient of steel, expansion of the track is mostly a non-issue. The LARGEST gap you need is less than 1/16" every once in a while. A curve can act as a rail gap, allowing the track to SLIGHTLY shift sideways (which you will be unable to see).
The biggest problem is the expansion and contraction of the benchwork from the ups and downs of humidity. Wood expands when it absorbs moisture and contracts when it dries out. The solution is moisture control. If it’s humid, keep it humid. If it’s dry, keep it dry.
As for the electronics, a small cooling fan will do the trick. DON’T take off the cover.
I HAVE installed a 1" muffin fan from Radio Shack on a Tech 4 power supply to boost it’s long-term running abilities by creating vent holes in the case and a ventilation hole in the side for the fan. You’ve got to know what you’re doing, and be willing to throw away the equipment if you screw up.
Mark in Utah (Elec. Engineer, willing to destroy anything electrical)
I know what you guys mean, I only have room air conditioners and the layout room is very hot right now. Its like 43 c with humidity I keep a a dehumidifer going but thats about it. i dont spend alot of time in the summer in there so I work on buildings and freight car kits and run the layout in the winter.
