I am planning on building a new layout. I’m jumping into the big wide world of DCC… I have one DCC locomotive that I run at my local Model Railroad Club, which uses Digitrax. Just so I can use that locomotive, I will use Digitrax. How many boosters, if any, do I need? Is there a general equation like how many feet to a booster? I’m a bit confused.
Also, when installing boosters, do you need to isolate (if that’s the correct word) the tracks when using boosters? (Ummm also how do you isolate tracks?)
This is one thing I haven’t seen MR cover in their magazine lately. I would really appreciate the help from all of you experienced modelers!
I have over 100’ of rails powered by the 5 amp supply that comes with the Digitrax Super Empire Builder of old. I use a robust bus of about 14 gauge wire and feeders up from that bus to the rails of 22 gauge every 5’ or so. I feel that arrangement provides a good solid signal and voltage to the rails, and I don’t have a need of a single booster.
If you are going to power considerably longer lengths of tracks, it may be prudent to use a booster, perhaps more boosters if you are going into the 400’ range?
But, no matter what I think, you will probably find a good set of guidelines at Digirax’s site, or at Tony’s Train Exchange. They have that down to solid engineering for you.
Cody, it’s the power draw of the locos/accessories, not the size in feet that determines how much power you require.
Add up the current draw of your locos (maybe a half-amp each for non-sound, and three-quarters of an amp each for sound), and any accessories such as lighted cars, or stationary decoders you plan to power from your track bus. That’ll give you a rough measure of what’s needed in amperage.
To isolate your power sections, you’d gap both rails at each end of the section. Many folks also fill the gap to prevent expansion/contraction from working them closed. A thin piece of thin styrene, super-glued in place and filed to the rail’s profile, works well and is hardly noticeable after the track has been weathered.
Also, although I’m a big fan of Digitrax, I have to point out that just because they use it at the club is no reason you can’t use some other brand at home. Your loco will still work just fine.
On the other hand, Digitrax is a very good system, you have a ready source of knowledge and support for it, and you appear comfortable using it, so it would probably be a good choice anyway.
Well, my layout is in a single car garage. 9x24. I have two levels, and I am running about 12 locomotives. I have operating sessions with myself and three other people. I am using the NCE Power Pro 5 amp system with just one booster. I do have the layout divided up into three sub-power districts.
You don’t need a Digitrax system to run a loco with a Digitrax decoder in it.
Our club also uses Digitrax, but I also know of 6 or more members who have purchased an NCE Power Cab system just to be able to program their locomotives more easily.
DCC systems are rated in amps, or amperes, the measure of current. It’s true that the number of amps you need is mostly dependent on the number of engine’s you’ll run, but for larger layouts you need to consider distance from base station as well, as voltage drop in the bus lines starts to become a factor. For the average room-sized layout, though, it’s unlikely that you will have this problem. Also, for that size layout, it’s unlikely that you’ll be running so many engines that you will need more than a modest-sized base system.
I have a 5-amp Lenz system. Right now, I have about 100 square feet of layout, with lots and lots of track. At the most, I might be running 5 or 6 engines, most with sound. (Non-sound engines effectively consume no power with their lights out when they’re not moving. Sound engines do take power when idling.) I also run some illuminated passenger cars, which also draw power from the DCC system. I don’t need a booster for this.
If you are planning a larger layout, one thing you can do is break things up into isolated sections, and separate them with circuit breakers. This makes troubleshooting easier, and allows one part of your layout to keep running even if there’s a short somewhere else, something which is a big plus if you have multiple operators. Later, if you find that you do need more power, you can upgrade to boosters as necessary and the wiring will already be in place.
I have a two car garage size layout with one layer, a large yard, and a subway. I estimate about 350 feet of track, 14 engines, 5 with sound, 2 powered subway cars, 6 lighted cars, and at one time had 8 DS-64s that were track powered. That is now down to 3 because I have been adding separate power for the DS-64s as I rebuild each section.
All that is powered by a Digitrax Super Chief, distributed on a 16 gage 3 wire (ground) buss.
Using the same DCC system as your club makes sense because if you get a hand held throttle you can use it at home or the club. However, your DCC equipped loco will run on any DCC system, you do not have to choose Digitrax to run it. So your conclusion to use Digitrax makes sense, but the logic and reasoning for that is incorrect.
It is very unlikely that you will need a booster, even if you go for the 3A Zephyr Xtra. There is no formal equation, but if there was it would have more to do with the number of locomotives and their current draw, rather than the amount of track. Good wiring as discussed by others really eliminates track length from the equation.
Yes, if you were to add a booster it would have to be fully isolated from your main command station. This is accomplished by cutting the tracks.
Actually, Model Railroader had an article on creating power districts with multiple DCC boosters just this last month.
sw1500railfan,
You probably don’t need any booster other than the one that comes with your DCC system.
For example, I have a 25’ x 50’ HO layout with a 200’ mainline. I have a pair of 14AWG wires running under the track with 22AWG feeders every 9 feet. I normally run with 3 or 4 operators running 3 or 4 trains at the same time. Currently, I have 4 sound engines on my layout: BLI I-5 4-6-4, Tsunami-equipped Atlas RS-11, LokSound-equipped Bowser U25B, and a QSI-equipped Atlas HH660. Plus, I have another 30 non-sound engines sitting on powered rails. I have 2 freight yards, a passenger terminal, and a staging yard, and it’s all run wirelessly with my DT400R throttles and one UR91 radio receiver. The best part is that my entire RR runs on my 2.5amp Digitrax Zephyr system.
Now, if I can run all that with a mere 2.5 amps, just think what can be done with a 5amp system. Unless you’re going to be buying sound engines by the dozens, you really don’t need multiple booster on most home railroads.
The nice thing about Digitrax is that you buy some now and add a booster later if you need it. I would start out with a Digitrax Super Chief Duplex Radio set. This comes with a DCS100 Command Station, a UR92 duplex radio receiver and a DT402D throttle. You will need to also purchase a 5AMP power supply. As your needs grow you can add on to the system.
I purchased a Digitrax Super Chief radio system in 1998 (DCS100 Command Station, UR91 simplex radio and a DT100R throttle). The DC100 is still the main command station on my layout. A year ago I sent it in to Digitrax to have the Command Station upgraded from 8 functions to 12 functions; which was not really necessary, but the upgrade was only $50.
Over the last thirteen years I have purchased other Digitrax components by adding on. I have added two DB150 boosters. (I only need one right now, but got the other cheep on Ebay). I also upgraded to duplex radio by adding a UR92 receiver to my loconet. My DT100R throttles are still in use on the layout alonside my DT402D throttles. I have two DT100R throttles, two DT300R throttles, two DT402D throttles and a UT4D throttle.
The nice thing about your club having Digitrax is you have friends who are familar with the Digitrax system and can offer help. If you need additional throttles for a home OPS session they can bring their throttles along, meaning you will not need as many.
Another great investment with a Digitrax system is a PR3. Don’t go home without it. This is a computer interface betwenn your Digitrax System and Decoder Pro Software (Download free from JMRI). Decoder Pro will allow you to program your locomotives and manage your Digitrax System from your computer. Through Decoder Pro/PR# you can use you computer as a layout throttle with your Digitrax system.
For most people a booster is overkill. I ran my layout (around 200’) for a few years just with my old Zephyr. I had no problems what so ever. Same goes for the 8 amp systems, overkill unless your running G scale or 50 HO scale sound loco’s all at the same time. A good 5 amp system from any manufacturer is all you will ever need.
I was in your situation 3 years ago and asked a similar question. After operating with DC since the very early '60s, I decided to jump into DCC - and I chose Digitrax too.
As others indicated the power you need depends on the layout size, number of locos, accessories, and future expansion. Mine is 11x15 HO two level with lots of locos. I’ve had the DCC working for over a year now, and am very satisfied with it.
I have a Super Chief 5 amp system, but purchased the Empire 5 amp system to augment it (it was cheaper than buying separate components). So, I have two 5 amp boosters, along with a 5 amp power supply for each. Some would say this is overkill, but I say it meets all my needs for now and the forseeable future.
Also have the layout divided into 8 power districts (could have used 4), four to a booster, and each of the 8 running thru circuit breakers. All this is useless unless you have a good size power buss wire (14 awg) and feeders every 3 to 4 feet.
I strongly suggest you pick up the Kalmbach DCC books (there are 3 or 4) and read, read, read. And remember, DCC can be as simple or as complicated as you choose. That being said, it is really a wonderful thing, and I truly enjoy running trains these days.
Oh, I didn’t really answer your question… In your case I would start out with a 5 amp system, and that should meet your needs. You can always add a second booster/power supply later on if needed.