After soaking in 91% alcohol for 2 days most of the paint was gone. After another 2 days there was little to no improvement. So now it looks like this:
The blue really show up on these photos. It is mostly in the deeper recesses. The new paintjob will be Rio Grande. So black with orange stripes and lettering. Opinions needed is this stripped enough or should I persist. I have no preference either way just looking for experienced advice. Will be adding open windows and doors to the cab, lift rings, grab irons. cutting out molded grills and adding fan details and actual metal grills in front and on top. Plus other items to make it more prototypical.
My only real concern would be that the top and front grills still have paint residue in the recesses, but if you are replacing them, should be a non-issue. Might want to inspect the tiny details like door latches, etc… You can pick those clean with the point of a hobby knife if you are so inclined.
Once you shoot a coat of primer on it, you will know quick enough if you are happy with it.
Getting off what remains around the hinges will be difficult. Honestly, the Athearn hinges don’t look that great anyway, so I would not be concerned about that.
All I would do is take a new #11 blade and scrape off the flat surfaces in the stair wells. The work you are doing on the radiator grille and air louvers should take car if the worst problem areas.
There is a great video on Model Railroader Video plus that shows all the work Cody had to do to get the paint off of a GP for a project layout. It takes days to get it better than what you have.
Since the primary color of the locomotive will be black… I doubt you need to get it any better.
A further soaking and some attention using an old toothbrush might get rid of the blue paint. Otherwise, get a jug of Super Clean…I don’t consider it to be stripped in that condition.
Yes take it from me – saying “oh it’s good enough” at this stage is likely to result in being unhappy with the next coat of paint, particularly if you ever have reason to take a very closely focused photograph of the model. The odd texture that results stands out like a sore thumb.
It’s even worse on a model than being too easily satisfied with scraping off the old paint on your house or garage before a new paint job.
Based upon my less experience than most here, if the paint has smooth edges down to the plastic, you won’t have a problem. I’ll bet the stairs would come out just fine. Scraping the plastic might cause scratches that you will still see when painted.
If the paint in the grills and corners covers detail, then soak and brush. Otherwise, if the paint to plastic transistions are smooth, like you would get with sanding, I think it would turn out fine.
I am ready to repaint some dummy locomotives to get Brunswick green PRR engines. I am going to carefully disassemble the shell, use a scuff pad to remove the old paint and decals, prime, scuff and paint. I am quite good with an air brush. Do not like to use any solvents on plastic.
I’ve had good luck with full strength PineSol® cleaner.
This is caustic stuff in full strength so use Nitrile gloves during this process and eye protection in case of incidental spatters.
I begin by using a gallon zip-top freezer bag and put the shell in it.
Then I fill the bag with the full strength PineSol® to cover the shell.
Next, I press the air out of the bag and place it in a steel or plastic pan- -in case there are leaks in the bag.
Let the shell sit for a few hours, then with an old toothbrush and Nitrile gloved hands, gently scrub the shell, immersing the shell in the fluid as necessary.
It might take a few cycles of this.
After 24-hours, if the shell is not completely clean I replenish the PineSol® and begin again.
You can rinse the shell between “treatments” in warm water while scrubbing with the toothbrush.
Once all the paint has been stripped to your satisfaction allow it to air dry. Then, handling it with only gloved hands to avoid contamination from your skin oils, paint as you wish.
The advantage of using PineSol® is the solvent it can be disposed of down the sink.
Keep us apprised of your progress and…
Hope this helps.
Post Script: If the Alcohol bath method does not work to your satisfaction. You can try the PineSol® method after thoroughly washing the shell of residual Alcohol in Dawn® dish soap. H.T.H.- -J.J.D.I.
I am preparing an F3 dummy for paint. I cannot remove the clear plastic windows or front light area. They have been glued in place and am afraid of breaking them. I was going to paint the dummy and try a Q tip to memove paint from the clear parts.
