How to build a hinged track bridge?

Ok, let us know how it works out.

Simon

I’ve been giving thoughts to this entrance-way problem myself. A few days ago one of my neighbors stopped by and made a casual suggestion about my entrance way problem. I think he may have hit the nail on its head, …which surprised me as I never thought he had such ‘mechanical capabilities’.

What he suggested was providing a lift up section that would be hinged on the wall at the end of the shed, across the width of the opening (approx 36"), up above the shed’s current entrance door. It would swing up and have a pendant that would hold it up horizontally against the ceiling.

I think that is something that DoctorWayne was suggesting?

My lift-up ‘bridge’ will likely be some sort of flat stiff sheet of material onto which some bridges will be attached on their sides. The flat sheet will act as a backdrop of the water (Chesapeake Bay on the lower deck) will be painted, and something elseo for the upper bridge. These bridges only need to carry two parallel rail lines across them. The bridges can be fairly large or detailed but will not likely be more than 6-10 inches wide. That will easily clear the ceiling when raised.

I think I can even include by ‘optional staging area bridging’ in this group.

Sorry Dave, not a lot of help with your problem, but I thought I might add to the bridge discussion.

DON"T DO IT AGAIN!!![:(!] [swg][(-D][(-D][(-D]

Seriously, you have absolutely no reason to apologise. I have been following your layout development and I agree that your neighbour (Canadian spelling eh!) has come up with a great solution.

People can add whatever they want to my threads, provided it is within the forum rules of course.

Dave

Discussed in this forum back in October, 2009. Conclusion was that it was a #3 frog which makes it equivalent to a #6 turnout. See: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/161413.aspx

I’m sure you will be extra cautious, Dave, just be sure to protect every cut edge of the metal studs — especially if little fingers will want to find their way into the underpinnings of the layout.

Not to mention the extra sharp “zips” or self-drilling sheet metal screws poking through. I’ve done lots of sheet metal “tin-knocking” over the years and have donated a lot of blood on some of these jobs.

I’ve seen vinyl “J” edging that taps onto the edges of sheet metal to protect hands and wiring.

Something to keep in mind when you guys are snipping, bending and forming.

Regards, Ed

Don’t know if it is too late but you can buy alluminum chanel.

Clearance means in front of too, I do beleive you have a problem unless your local code is way off national.

My very simple lift out. Still in the process. I just use a 1x4 and dressing up with some old parts from old kits. I just cut the ties back a little to allow room to slide the rail joiners back and forth. Keeps from having to power the lift out. Takes all of maybe 30 seconds to do. I am going to add more detail to the liftout like gussets and railing to make it look like a real bridge.

Umm…errr…problem you say?!?[:S][:-^]

Yes, we are aware of the rules. If we are forced to, we can make the offending part of the loop into a hinged section too, or rebuild the entire north side of the layout. When I was doing the original plan I played for hours trying to completely avoid the electrical panel while maintaining our minimum 32" radii. It was doable of course, but it would have eliminated a large portion of the service area.

Dave