My basement is roughly 20x30. I have a ranch house with a big basement. I am thinking of making a permanant train layout. I have now a layout that I setup just for christmas. But, now I would like one that is up all year around. How should I get started?? As far as wall outlets, I have 6 big transformers and when they all are on full, the fuse breaker blows or switches off. Should I make a direct service from fuse box to the location of the control panel and where I plug in my transformers?? What kind of service do I need for (4) Z’s and (1) ZW and (1) KW? I wanna make sure the house outlets can handle my transformers. Now, for the tabletop. How should I start? Start with the legs and then build up. How thick of plywood do you use? I have alot of things to put on the layout so I would have to come up with a nice track plan so it all works together. Any input on how to build a layout would help. Any books that might help too. Or websites that tell you step by step. Thanks.
TM Books & Video has a good DVD. I just got it. It has “Building An O Gauge Layout” beginner & advanced. Talks about table design, layout, scenery, electricity, etc. He builds a 8 x 16 fastrac layout.
Also included is “How To Build a Toy Train Layout” with tubular.
Both have some great ideas. Web address is tmbv.com
Best of luck,
wyomingscout
Hi! I picked up a number of “tips” in the past from reading posts in the ‘Model Railroaders’ Forum under ‘Layouts and Layout Building’. It may be a help. All the best. Keep us updated.
If you’re tripping the breaker, my guess is that you have a 15-ampere circuit there, wired with 14 AWG. I like your idea of wiring directly to the transformers’ location. There are two reasonable (and legal) options that I can see:
If you are in the US (not in Canada), replace the 15-ampere circuit with a 20-ampere circuit. Unfortunately, this will require running a heavier 12-AWG cable. You will also have to use a 20-ampere receptacle if you have only one outlet; but it can be the kind that also accepts a 15-ampere plug (the usual kind with parallel blades) and has a T-shaped hole for the grounded blade. Or, if you install multiple outlets, which isn’t such a bad idea if you’re plugging in 6 transformers, you can use the slightly cheaper 15-ampere-only type.
Or you could run a 3-wire 15-ampere 14-AWG circuit, which would give you an ample 30 amperes, that is, 15 amperes per phase. Half the outlets would be out of phase with the other half, which you would have to take into account in plugging in your transformers.
In either case, there’s no reason why you can’t also install a switch to shut all those outlets off together, except perhaps for one to power tools or anything else that you might want to have stay on.
Get a licensed electrician, tell him what your load is and have him install a dedicated circuit (or two). This way you’ll be sure to have it meet the code requirements.
I would build a grid layout with 1/2 " plywood.
I haven’t used them, but Kalmbach has a couple of books:
Basic Model Railroad Benchwork: The Complete Photo Guide By Jeff Wilson
How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork, 2nd Edition by Linn H.Westcott
Enjoy
Paul
Unless you know what you’re doing, hiring an electrician is a good idea. However, meeting code is not quite a certainty in my experience.
As Bob suggests about the circuits, its a good idea…in fact, Bob’s input has been invaluable to many of us here on the forum. Regarding the rest:
Kalmbach books (owner’s of this web site), have a few good starter books the one on benchwork is great. Also, they have some on scenery, etc, if that is the way you want to go.
I have gone with “L-Girder” frame which is very sturdy and allows for a lot of adaptability. For the surface, I went with 1/2" plywood and covered it with extruded foam insulation. A couple of thoughts:
-Spend lots of time planning and preparing. Better to have a good idea of what you want regarding the whole functioning of the layout. Have a track plan before starting benchwork. YOu will want to know where to make access holes to get to derailments, etc. You will also want to decide how you will build regarding “around the wall” or one large table top either mounted to the wall or free standing.
-access points. As mentioned above, you will need them, but make sure you can reach every square inch of your layout without having to climb.
-How high do you want to have your layout? Most want it to be about 40" or so as this allows you to sit under it while wiring, etc. Some like it even higher as they either plan to stand or sit on high bar stools while operating and wan the trains running near eye level. It is all up to you.
-Plan for expansion of either the layout as a whole, or for any possible changes in your styles and running. For example: If you plan on only running in conventional control, you may wan to wire the layout so that it would be easy to add command control. Lionel’s system (TMCC) is very easy to add in that you just hook the wires up as directed and you are ready (mostly). MTH’s system (DCS) recommends using "home run
lionel2,
I highly suggest getting that DVD as well. I watched it before I built my layout, and it is great for people like us who haven’t built proper benchwork. After watching the DVD, I was able to build very solid benchwork, unlike my previous attempt before I got the DVD. Also, if you don’t have a table saw, get one asap. I bought a 10" Skil Table Saw at Lowes for $115, and it is the best purchase I have ever made. There is no way I would want to build a layout without it. The DVD also covers things like scenery and wiring.
lionel2,
I sent you a PM.
My permanent layout started life as my Christmas layout, first as a 6’ x 9’ rectangle with 2 lines, then as a 6’ x 9’ more manageable “L” shaped layout (4’ deep with O-42 return loops). It was completely sceniced with a single line with a passing siding, for two train operation. When I was developing plans for the future layout in the 17’ x 13’ foot area in my basement, Fifey’s-wifey encouraged me to incorporate the then Christmas layout into the new design. She had seen a lot of layouts, and felt that I was ready to abandon a very nice setup that most guys would love to have. She was right. With the addition of around the wall painted backdrops, and raising the layout height to 41" (from bottom to floor), I had the nexus for an empire. What flourished was my CONNELLSVILLE SUBDIVISION, which has since been expanded (additional 6’ x 7’) into a 9’ x 13’. This new CUMBERLAND EXTENSION has taken me over 2 years to construct, and is almost completely finished. I believe working in “phases” helps to continue the interest, and keeps the trains rolling, which is of utmost importance. The next phase on my layout will be extending west towards Pittsburgh…but that’s a future chapter.
Installing a new circuit is not difficult, just pickup a good home electrical book at a book store and you should be OK. If you don’t like working with electricity an electrician can run a new circuit for you. Cost will depend on if the basement is finished, length of the run, etc.
Something you might want to consider that involves a lot less carpentry work and gives almost “instant gratification” is to use pre-made ping pong ball tables. They are 5’x9’ and you can get them for around $99 each. They fold up in the middle if you need the room, although you would have to plan your track accordingly. And they come with legs already installed. I plan on 3 ping pong tables to give me a 15 x 9 size. Of course, if you want to be able to climb on top of your train table and walk around, this isn’t too hot an idea. [:D]
Dep