How to build an urban trestle -perhaps like PRR out of 30th St Phila. PA?

Here’s the deal: I’d like to add a second main loop.

But the only space is up, directly on top of the existing loop. This is an “architectural” layout - not scenic.

What would be an efficient, yet attractive way to put a second level over the existing loop? I’ve seen the old PRR elevated lines around Phila. PA, and I think they have a suitable look. I can use a lionel trestle set to get up and down. But how would I build an elevated (narrow) loop. I see it as stained and varnished wood, but it could be otherwise. it would extend for perhaps 12 to 15 feet esxposed, with some curves, and an additional six feet semi-concealed (behind the piano). It’s a floor level layout.

Eventually it would require a lift bridge, Bascule type I think (seperate project).

Your input to my fantasy appreciated! (Don’t tell my wife).

runtime

Runtime, I’ve done this on a buddy’s layout. I have to find some pictures. We used Atlas track, MTH and Lionel graduated trestles which we sorta kitbashed. And for the go-around, we connected two 1 inch thick dowels with wood shims - all painted nice. Screwed these onto the top of the layout and screwed the track to the middle of the shim. Allowed us to go around obstacles - like a 4 track yard spacing - by using a broader shim. We also used some Lionel ‘plate’ bridges that were pretty wide as a base for a station.

The other way I’ve seen is by using real metal El pylons from a company that advertised in CTT - what was the name - real steel something. I’ll have to mosey around some more.

Doug, I think this is the outfit you were trying to think of in the previous post.

http://www.steeltoys.com/

That’s it! Thanks, John.

Adding an elevated loop does allow you to expand the layout but I would urge consideration of making it a seperate elevated line. The amount of real estate required to get trains up and down grades can be considerable. This is especially true if you model scale or modern (or worse yet modern scale) equipment. Grades in excess of 3% often become problematic. Coupler breaks and wheel spin/thrown traction tires may become routine events. A 3% grade will eat up about 16 feet of space to give you about 6" clearance and you need another 16 feet to get back down.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Doug- I’m trying to picture 1" vertical dowels with wood shims… if you find the pics, that would be great.

John- Thanks for the ‘steeltoys.com’ link. Don’t know if the ‘El’ suits my purpose, but I like the trestle bridges.

Chuck- I’ve planned for the up and down segments, however I’ve been debating with myself about the appropriate grade. While 3% would be nice, I don’t think I can find the room. As I recall, the standard Lionel trestle set yields 4.5% spaced on standard 10" track sections. I have room for a bit more than that, but not much. I would have to devise some kind of support for the track joints to use sligntly greater than 10" spacing, like maybe 12", but I’m not sure it will be worth the trouble.

I recall that trestle set being in the layout of my youth, but have no idea if my dad used standard spacing. In those days I don’t recall any of our engines not making the grade, but we had a long straight at each end to build up approach speed.

runtime

runtime…Three percent grade is about the maximum that I would suggest. Many times it is not the accent, but the decent that is problematic. A runaway train is not a pretty site.

If you run traditional (aka O-27) sized equipment and run short trains the 4.5% grade from the standard elevated tressle set will work fine. As the equipment gets longer and heavier and the trains get longer the problems become more severe. I tried a 5% grade using a long “S” shaped reasonably wide curve (O-48) and it wasn’t pretty. The engines with traction tires had no problems going up but regular steel weels slipped under load and slid going downhill and I had a lot of coupler failures and break aways.

We used modern Lionel climbing trestles (if that’s the right word) to ascend and descend. We’re running MTH subways which aren’t heavy and can pull themselves up and down. The dowels and shim across the top describe lan upside-down u or small n. dowel-shim joining them-dowel. track is screwed into the shim. The only photos I’ve found so far show me grinning like an idiot atop the layout with a drill in each hand. :wink:

I think I remember seeing a layout photo of what you are looking for…but I can’t remember where it is…The layout appears on Sunday Photo Fun now and again…Large layout full of great things, including a monorail. Photo usually from the knife switch board at the control panel.

I’ll keep looking.

Kurt

Edit: Found it! http://www.robertstrains.com/ Look at the Lionel Layout.