The recent post on “2046 Cab Separation” contained a response that it was a PITA to remove & reinstall the 675, 2025 and 2035 boiler shells to perform maintenance on the motor. All three share the same basic construction detail, with only the 2035 equipped with magnetraction. Since the 2035 is my favorite steam engine, I thought it would be beneficial to others to see how the boiler shell removal is done with only minor aggravation. (It’s also raining today, so I have some extra time on my hands.)
The 2035 was produced by Lionel in ’50 & ’51. It is classified as a K-4 Pacific type steam engine. However, the Pennsylvania Railroad’s Class K-4 Pacific steam engine had a 4-6-2 wheel arrangement whereas the 2035 has a 2-6-4 wheel arrangement. It really should have been classified as an Adriatic Type locomotive. In any event, I think that in addition to being a great looking steam engine, it’s also an excellent runner on O-27 track easily handling s-curves and back-to-back turn-outs.
Unlike many other steam engines, it takes more than 3 screws to get the boiled shell off. Here’s how I do it. There are probably variations other people use that make this job even easier.
The first thing I do is remove the front truck. While not necessary it just makes disassembly and reassembly easier.
Papa D, I concur…great writeup and pictures,good information. The 2035 is a favorite of mine. My first 2 engines were the 2026 late 40s model, and the 2035. I too have been taking them apart since around 8-10 years old. My 2035 used to have a sticky e unit. Today I have several 2035s, and what I like about it is the magne-traction, besides looking good. I have a 2025 with the Baldwin Drivers, 47 model, but that is a shelf engine. I love Postwar because of the ruggedness and simplicity of them. I have modern engines, they run good, but postwar is where I started. There is something about it. Thanks for posting and helping those who haven’t had the opportunity or are hesitant about taking apart.
While on the subject of the 2035, does anyone know if there was ever any detailed back plate that could be added to the engine so you weren’t looking in at the electric motor?
great write up. my 675 was the first steamer I bought myself. I’ve bnever thought it hard to take apart.not as easy as my 671 of course, but not bad at all.
My 2046 has no backplate either, (and apparantly none did) so it was a bit disconcerting to look in there and see the e-unit looking back at me! No matter, I love my 2046, what a bruiser! To use an old railroader’s saying “It’ll pull anything, up to and including the yard office!”
Papa D, thanks for those detailed instructions. I don’t have a 2035, but I just might one day. A question: I’m assuming that Dallee electronics e-unit compensates or just plain runs on AC voltage? Most circuit boards I’m aware of are DC only.
Ah, I see now why I couldn’t see the pics. I had to tell firefox to allow it. Good to remember. Anyhoo I can see them now and everything makes a lot more sense! And seeing as how I just acquired my first 2035, thanks!
The Dallee e-unit rectifies the track AC to DC. I’ve been using them for over 10 years with no reliability problems. Installation isn’t too difficult, I’d say requires about an intermediate skill level.
