I have an Athearn BB tanker I picked up at a train show. The holes where the screws go to hold the trucks on are completely stripped. What are my options to fix this?
I figured a slightly bigger screw would be one solution, but what size would it be and where would I get them? Is there a way to fill in the hole and retap it? Any other ideas?
thanks
Todd
You will have to get some parts and a couple of tools, not a big deal.
You need some Evergreen 1/8" diameter styrene tube Walthers part# 269-224 or just 224 on the display to the hobby shop
The tools are a drill and tap; Kadee sells a # 246 set with everything you need - a 2-56 tap, and #43 and #50 drills for about $6.95
Drill out the oversize hole with a 1/8" drill. Cut a length of tube that will fit in the hole and stick out about 1/8", like the original bolster, and glue in place. After the glue has set, use the smaller #43 drill and drill out the hole in the tubing. Use the tap to cut new threads in the hole. Reinstall the trucks using the original screws.
To use the tap, I like to put it in a hand drill - do not use an electric, it spins too fast. Turn a few revolutions then back out and clean out the chips, re-insert and continue tapping. Do not pull the tap out, turn the drill in the reverse direction, like removing a screw.
I have restored the truck screws on many cars with this method.
Get yourself a short screw that fits firmly inside the (bolster) hole. Fill this hole with 30 minute epoxy and insert your screw. Twenty five minutes later back out the screw leaving you with a tapped hole.
. . . . . and for you skeptics who wanna know if I’ve ever done this before the answer is “YES”!!!
PIECE-A-CAKE!
The method using 1/8" tubing works great.The hole in the tubing will except a #2 self tapping screw without the second step. You just have to find a screw with a head small enough to fit the center hole in the truck bolster. I have found the same mfg to package different size heads from time to time. Hint: Leave the glue to dry over night so the tubing will not spin when inserting the screw.
A cheaper alternative to the Evergreen styrene tube is to use a piece of plastic sprue from a model kit. First you might want to drill out the existing hole a little larger to make sure the sides of the hole are nice and smooth (for a good glue bond for the next step).
You may have to file down the sprue to get it to the right size diameter. Chuck a length of it in a drill like you would a drill bit, then file it on its side while it’s spinning until it’s the right diameter. Cut off what you need to plug the hole, make sure the end sticking “out” is nice and flat, and glue in place w/ styrene cement or CA. Once the glue is cured, you’ll need to drill/tap a new hole for the bolster screw.
It’s a little more work, but cheaper than buying a whole package of Evergreen tubing which may not be readily available anyway.
On the few of mien that stripped, I put model glue on the screw and placed the screw thought the truck and inserted the screw with the tank car up side down. Let set for 15 minutes or so. That was 3 years ago and the tanker it is still fine.
Ken
Ken and Others
That is what I have been doing for 20 years is using the Testors Red Tube Glue.
Just squeeze a bit into the stripped hole and put the screw in the hole and push the screw down and let the glue dry for a day!
If you ever have to remove the screw - just unscrew it - the Testors glue will break loose and let the screw back out!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
A lot of times I just go with a #2 self tap, about 1/2" long and it’s all good.
Richard