I’m a Newbie and think I’m going to build a small Switching shelf operation for now. I recently purchased Atherns new DCC ready HO RS-3 locomotive. I put it on the test track to give er a shortrun. I am only using a Bachmann DC power pack that I got as a gift with an N scale train set. Now this is a quality loco with flywheels, not a cheapie. It doesn’t budge until the Bachmann rheostat says 16 MPH, and then very jerky until about 20 MPH. A switching operation usually takes place at very slow speeds. My question is, Do I need a larger Powerpack, or will this baby run better after it’s converted to DCC, where the track voltage is constant 12 volts and the speed is controlled electronically. Also the Headlight brightness increases and decreases as the Loco changes speed. Will the headlamp stay bright with DCC Control? Even at slow speeds?
When you switch to DCC you should get smoother starts and stops. If you get more than a starter DCC set-up, you can adjust a lot of settings like start-up voltage and momentum. Definately, the lights will remain bright, unless you dim them from your throttle.
The MPH markings on the power pack are meaningless, ignore them. They have no relation to the speed engines might be moving. And the N scale power pack may not be enough for the HO scale model, it would be best to get one with more amperage.
With DCC you can adjust the accelleration, deaccelleration, braking, etc. for each individual engine, to suit its intended purpose. Speed can be controlled in most modern engines and decoders in 128 steps, so you have quite a range. And track vvoltage in DCC will be higher than 12 volts, probably around 16 v.
One of the benefits of DCC is the lights stay the same brightness all the time. Most decoders allow you to turn them on and off, and most are directional too - they are only lighted in the direction the engine is moving.
Good luck!
Bob Boudreau
Bill2759:
Several possibilities you need to troubleshoot:
1 - The Athearn drivetrain might need tweaking (not uncommon among Athearns)-- You need to make sure all the gears and shafts are de-burred and that there isn’t over/underlubrication.
2 - The track might be suspect. Check your connections and joiners, consider feeder wires for more reliable power delivery. I’m assuming that you know better than to use brass track and you’re using nickel silver.
3 - The power pack. Cheap power packs sometimes don’t deliver clean power-- The power they deliver can sometimes fluctuate, leading to sporatic problems.
Check all three, and I’m sure pretty soon your RS3 should be running smoothly as you find out/fix what the problem is.
Good luck!
As Spacemouse pointed out, you’ll probably get better operation under DC, but not just “because it’s DC”. There are two things fighting against good performance under good 'ol DC:
IIRC, N-scale engines operate at lower voltages than HO. You’ll need to set the N-scale power supply to a higher voltage (that is, higher “speed setting”) to get any response out of the HO engine, and even more to get it steady.
Second, cheapie power supplies won’t necessarily give the best results, even if you’re using them on the designed scale. The difference in control between the cheapy AHM and Tyco power supplies I originally got in my teens, and the MRC unit I still use if/when I run under DC, was huge.
Brian Pickering
Bill,
A better DC power pack will make your RS-3 run better.
With that said, DCC will also make it run better, AND…you can tweak the configuration variables (CVs) further so that it runs more prototypically. 128 speed step is a nice feature with DCC.
AND…Your headlights will shine constantly on DCC, rather than getting brighter and darker as you increase and decrease the locomotive’s speed using DC. I’ve installed LEDs in all my DCC locomotives.
Bill, there’s just NO comparison between using an incandescent bulb and an LED when it comes to headlights. The LED has a more directional light and lends itself well for shining through the headlight lens. A piece of heat shrink helps to further concentrate the beam. However, if using LEDs with DCC, you do need to solder a 1K or less resistor in line so that you don’t fry the LED.
I’m sold on them - particularly the golden-white LEDs. They give my steamers and early diesels a bright but warm glow to their headlights.
Tom
DCC will make it run under full power at low sped, so it can pull the same train at 100% as it can at 1%. DCC will also give you finer control than DC. That said, you’re not going to get nearly as good of performance out of an Athearn as you would out of a Kato or Atlas model, it doesn’t matter if it’s DC or DCC. The motors aren’t the same, and if it’s a blue box Athearn, you won’t be able to run very many at a time on DCC, because they draw a LOT more power to do the same job.
Greg
It might be the loco.
My Athearn RS-3 ran rough until I broke it in…
My other one is going to go back to Athearn because it still runs rough after I tried to run it for a while to break it in.
SOUNDS LIKE you have an Athearn B.B. engine.
I’m going to go 'against the grain and say ‘it won’t run better on DCC’ unless the problem is the Bachmann Power pak. (The power pak can be eliminated by taking the engine somewhere and trying it with an MRC.which ‘nudges’ balky Athearn engines).
Athearn B.B. engines - while ‘not bad for the money’, took 5 volts to overcome friction - but once moving they were fine - not exactly what one wants for switching. New Stewart, Atlas, Kato, & Proto 2000 products make the kind of switchers that do what you want. . My personal favorite are the Stewart 'Baldwin’s. Smooooth.
The RS-3 is a brand new RTR product. The ‘Jury’ is still out.
Since it’s new, let’s suspect the Power pack first. It’s an easy test.
UNTIL you try a different power pak with your engine - OR a different engine with your power pak there’ll be no answers. If the engine is the problem, DCC will not fix it .
Do you know what the voltage is when it smooths out?
Jim
Agree with Don on the Stewart Baldwins. My VO-660 is VERY smooth. The Proto 2000 Alco S1 is another terrific one.
Tom
I’ll get my Digital voltmeter on it. I hope I didn’t by a Lemon!
This stops jerking at 3 volts, smooth as a whistle at 3.75. I’m beggining to think this will run like a clock (better it should run like a Locomotive) at the full voltage of DCC.
bill2759
IF youve got a Voltmeter Betcha Your 'RHEOSTAT drops out below 3 volts and the ‘jerking’ is the result of suddenly going from 0 v. to 3 v.
It sounds to me like your N scale pack is the trouble. It is either defective or is limiting the current by design to your Athearn loco. Athearn’s are known to draw more than average current. As has already been suggested, I would try a MRC pack and see what happens. You could take it to a LHS and try it on their test track.
Jim