Hi eveyone. I am trying to open up a Walthers Mainline 85’ Budd 10-6 sleeper and it seems I need to pull it open from the roof, but it is VERY tight. Any tips or tricks to get it open without damaging it so that I can add figures would be helpful and appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken
Hi Ken,
Click on this link. It’s a thread where I share my method of removing the roof/glazing assembly off of a Walthers Mainline Budd unit:
GREAT tip. It worked. I have 4 of these I am working on for my club and I got all four open in about 2 minutes. Thank you so much for the tip.
Ken
Hi Ken,
Did You not get a sheet of paper with a photo of where to place Your fingers in the box? Not to worry…all mine did not have it either. Well it is not an easy task…but patience is the key here. I did 8 of them and found a couple of tricks to pass on. First off You need to hold the car in both hands, facing You, with Your two thumbs also facing You, about 3/4 of an inch below the top window line and seam for the roof. Tightly hold Your fingers against the sides and with a twisting motion with both hands, twist in one direction with one hand and the other direction with Your other hand, keeping Your thumb and fingers in the same spot…do that rather vigorously back and forth until You hear a sort of pop and pay close attention to the side ends of the car, You should see a gap forming along the roof lines. You could keep continuing to twist until the centers start to show a gap…but I learned to stop when the gaps are at the ends and I use a Xacto chizel blade #17 with the corners of the blade filed down so it is sort of round. I then stick that in the gap with the cutting part of the blade facing in and run that all the way down the top side of the car, to unlock the center tabs, which are what really holds the top down and hard to get off the first time. After I run the blade all the way down the side of the car, I twist the blade slightly to make a big gap and stick a Micro-Mark Micro brush in the gap down to the swirls in the brush, that will hold it in. I put one on each side about three inches from the ends. Then I lay the car on it’s side on the Microbrushes and the other side should have a gap already there, If I have to, I run the chizel blade again down the whole side, at that point, You can take the roof off by lifting straight up. Some people here on the Forums said they sand down those tabs so it is easier to get off again…But…I found that if You do that… the roof does not stay on tight enough and there will be a gap in that roof line. with light bleed through if Y
AntonioFP45,
I didn’t know You posted…was typing at the same time…would have saved My time LOL.
BTW: With the light bar and metal trucks added, mine are much heavier. I even added short shank 1/4’’ Kadee couplers so they are coupled closer together at the diaphragm, but I have broad curves.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Hi Ken,
Glad it was helpful. The interior is identical to those used in the older-run Walthers passenger cars. These interiors are really nice and easy to remove. With painted seats/furniture, you’ll get a nice depth of realism. I apply flat paint only on seats and any furniture visible through the windows. I don’t bother with the floors at all as, even with lighting, they’re barely visible (especially since most of us view our trains from a “helicoptor or drone view”.
Hi ZStripe,
Understandable. Same exact thing happened with me and Doc Wayne not too long ago on a steam locomotive thread, LOL![:D][:P]