Can someone please tell me how to remove the HO scale Proto 1000 F3 windows for shell painting?
They are glued in place, mainly at the top. The best way I’ve found is to slide an X-acto chisel blade between the locking tab at the bottom and the shell, and gently pry it loose.
If you don’t want to risk breaking the windows by removing them, you can use blue painters’ tape and mask over them prior to painting. I’d agree that removal is the best option, but if it can’t be done careful masking works pretty well.
This is the method I used, though I carefully put some nail polish remover on the edges of the glued areas, to loosen it.
Thank you for the responses. I broke two three of the sections and the third window is still in place. The port hole windows are not damaged . . . but the A unit with the cab will most certainly be a problem. I bought some 3m automotive masking tape and will carfeully cover all remaining windows. Quite a pain but it will be the only choice. Thanks for the two replies, the forum is an excellent means to get hobby help.
Here are two other painter’s old tricks. The first one I saw in this forum and the second is practised in autobody shops.
Use some kids playdough (or other suitable putty) to push into/onto the areas to be masked. Use some toothpicks or sculpting type tool to get the edge just where you want it. This may seem mickey mouse to you and not at all what a fine painter would do, but balanced against breaking all your windows and frames up, it is ideal. Build up the amount needed rather than putting a big blob on and having to cut it away, because it will leave an oily residue on the edges you may wish to take up the paint.
Alternatively, apply some vaseline (sparingly) to the area to be masked. Even the thinnest film of vaseline will completely protect/mask your area. There is a danger here however. You must be exceedingly cautious about getting vaseline on any other area or smearing it by accident. I wear painters gloves which I discard immediately after using a tiny paintbrush with vaseline. I put a small amount in a pill bottle lid so that I am not dipping into jar, and then I put the gloves on after touching the container. I don’t know how well it would work for your loco windows, but I have done this successfully on the round porthole side windows, and some easily accessed front cab windows and number boards.
The vaseline also has the drawback of getting it all off with a swab etc. afterward. Again, however, compared to breaking your windows, I would and have done this with good results.
Most often I use the vaseline masking on something easily accessed (lamp post globes recently) and on something that can be completely immersed in hot soapy water afterward.
In my opinion, both of these methods are superior to masking with tape (even the tiny tape) insofar as being applied exactly to the perimeters. Tape is