At the age of 70, I’m beginning to build my first layout. I have a professionally designed U-shaped switching layout plan that I can print out full size on multiple sheets of paper. It seems to me that working with a full size plan would be more straight forward than converting measurements from a smaller plan. My question is how to best transfer the full size plan to the sub-roadbed. I don’t want to glue the plan to the plywood, and the only other thing I can think of is to use carbon paper to transfer the plan to the wood. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I think there are a couple of huge layout builds, currently on the forums, that used this method. Maybe search the forums, in the “Search the Community” box on the right hand side.
Didn’t the LoneWolf or maybe MichaelRose’s layout use full size prints?
Cut out the track pattern and tape it down on the plywood, or just hold it with your hand, or use a paper weight or two. Draw the outline with a pencil. Check to make sure it didn’t move.
I can describe what I did, but I know it will be of little use to almost everyone on this forum. Nevertheless . . .
I started out life as a draftsman. I drafted my layout design full size (that is to say full N-scale size) in the layout room using conventional drawing methods and precision drafting tools; first on the floor, then on the benchwork, and even on the walls. The technique is called lofting, and before CAD came into prominence it was a very common practice. A quick internet search would turn up photos from the old days of engineers in vests and bowties rolling up their sleeves and removing their shoes (lots of argyle socks) and drawing ships and airplanes full size on factory floors.
I laid out control points and established baselines and so forth . . . curves and angles and tangents and offsets and whatnot are within about 1/16" of what I designed using the computer. Piece of cake.
Most CAD and all PDF file formats can be taken to a copy shop with a plotter printer. There’s a copy shop near me that has a continuous roll plotter (for banners).
Any plotter printer (most typically print in 24"x 36" sheets) will allow fewer seams and allow you to print a ‘master copy’, to keep pristine, and a copy (two copies if one has multiple, grade different track crossings) for cutting and tracing onto track beds.
With 8-1/2" x 11" paper, there’s a greater chance that a large layout will be off due to printing tolerances and cutting/pasting errors.
Drive around the industrial parks near you and look for a tool and die shop or mold shop. They usually have large 36"roll printers and may be able to print the plan out for you. Maybe even for free.
Or you can lay out a 6" grid and overlay a grid on your plan and transfer points and locate switches onto your benckwork and connect the dots. This should get you close enough.
We used what is called a “pounce wheel”. If you google it you will see some pictures. We originally laid out our track plan on brown wrapping paper. We then laid that on the layout and followed the track center line with the pounce wheel. The pounce wheel left tiny holes in the table top.
I just taped the sheets together and used carbon paper to trace it on (yes it is still available.) I did it in sections and with a bit of care it worked out fine.
I used a full size track plan print when building my railroad. If you want to read about the process in mind numbing detail the posts begin here: http://www.lkorailroad.com/track-laying-begins/
BTW Graphite paper works far better than carbon paper.
David, when you get ready to print your layout, make sure you draw a scale on one page in your computer and verify that your printer actually prints true. Some printers will be off and sometimes there is a checkbox for printing full page, etc. that may have gotten checked and become the default. I usually just draw a 1" x 1" box, print to scale, and then measure to be sure it prints 1" x 1".
