How would you install bulbs for easy replacement?

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Let’s use micro-bulbs that you install inside ditch lights for an example - they’re too small for a press-fit, and you don’t want to use a lot of glue since that would seal the cavity, making overheating a greater possibility, and making it difficult to replace when they do burn out. So, how would you install them, so as to avoid overheating, and at the same time, make them easy to replace[?]

2

I’d go with LEDs. These can be mounted inside the ditch light housing, and will last a loooooong time. They also don’t get hot.

3

I know that SMD LEDs are small enough, but the question still is - how do you install them for easy replacement? You wouldn’t want to fill the cavity with glue…[?]

4

The average LED will last between 10,000 and 100,000 hours. That’s a really long time, so replacement would not be large issue. However, since you’re concerned about it, I’d use tape over the LED and glue the ends of the tape. Makes remove easy.

-Tom

5

I’m sorry to be so dense, but could you give me a bit more detail about what you mean[?]

6

I think he’s telling you 1. use leds. when installing them instead of gluing the LED’s in place to place tape over the back and just glue the ends of the tape to the inside of the loco, if one ever did go out the led would still be removable.

7

I use a piece of clear acrylic rod for the lens, and heat shrink a bulb to the other end… It covers the bulb, directs the light source (like a fibre optic strand would), and is easlily changed out if and when the bulb burns out… Simply slice the heat shrink off , replace the bulb, and the heatshrink… Works great for the mars lights in my F units… Haven’t had to replace one yet…

Jeff

8

I am using LEDs for the head lights. I have not installed any ditch lights yet, but also plan on LED usage. I use a dab of the slow set hot glue to hold them in place. I have experimented with using extra wire and soldering the wire direct, but that becomes a pain when the wire shifts on re-assembly, and wraps itself around the shafts, or rubs on the flywheel creating a short, (Not that I would know from experience)…

I now use male and female pins I got at Radio Shack. They come in a kit for making 25 pin serial cable connections for PC’s. So now the LED’s are mounted in the loco shell and when I need to do routine maintenance or repairs, I can separate the shell from the frame without any problems. I’m now re-engineering my first LED conversions to the pin connection set up.