Hey guys,
When i was working on my layout i tried on a spare piece of track, hydrocal for grade crossings, i liked the way it looked when it dried, and i applied it to my layout it worked great and trains ran over it with ease, the flanges were clear in order to run the trains. Is this a good idea to use hydrocal, or should i use a different material on my 2 over grade crossings?
Thanks Again
Tommy Single
Hydrocal works fine, but is that type of grade crossing appropriate for the road and era your doing? I see blacktop type crossings more on rural 2 lane road crossings. Then you have the steel plate, rubber mat type in modern heavy traffic areas. And you used to have the wood tie type years ago. It really depends on the look your going for.
My era is modern, but its in arural western Pennsylvania, Southfork To be exact, and all there is paved over crossings, sometimes without crossing gates. No rubber or metal on this layout.
Tjsingle
You might be able to get a sharper edge near the inside of the rails where the flanges run by using plastic. (Styrene) Just paint it to match the road. Sometimes a sharp edge looks better than the plaster edge which may become rounded.
Automotive bondo. It’s cheap. 10$ will get you the equivalent of a gallon of the “putty” and a couple tubes of hardener. This will last you forever.
It’s sandable, etc. I’ve been using it for a long time.
Hydrocal will work for grade crossings–I know because I’ve done it. You need to apply it in thin layers or it may crack as it dries. It looks good, too. I mixed India Ink into it (one big drop is all it takes for a small job) and it turns out a nice, worn asphalt color. On my current layout, I used rubber mat and concrete grade crossings with metal lagging for a modern look.
John Timm
I use plaster of paris to the same effect. I simply pour the road and smooth it. To cut the flangeway, I use a hacksaw blade. Give a nice clean edge, works quickly,and is easy to do.
(click to enlarge)
Tom