Hi All!!
I am new and an avid PRR modeler in HO scale. I am currently using a Lenz DCC system, and mainly Broadway Limited PRR motive power. I am still building a layout in the garage, so with warmer weather I hope to get a lot more done. This looks like a great place to hang out!!
Hey Christov,
Welcome to the forum. There’s a lot of knowledge here. Ask questions & use the search function.
You’re right, it is a good place to hang out, but don’t neglect that project out in the garage.
Wayne
Welcome aboard, Christov [#welcome].
You’ll find some pretty good people out here, and some helpful ones too.
I started out intending to model HO PRR in the basement of our last place. Alas, the space was a little too tight to do it justice, and the wife took to N-scale (the little ones, in her terminology). So, I model an N-scale freelance 1958 regional carrier around the Colorado/New Mexico/Arizona called the Bunter Ridge. Mostly Alco diesels, but some E8s, SD9s, SW9s and Baldwin VO1000s. It runs on Digitrax and will eventually have a spare PC hooked up “helping” me.
I have a small HO PRR brass collection, a couple of H10s, a T1, an N2, a B6s and an E6s. When we win the lottery (any day now, I’m sure), we’ll build a place with a separate building to house the Bunter Ridge and the PRR Middle Division.
Anyway, welcome again.
Hi Cristove;
Welcome to the forums. I’m modeling a freelance iron ore hauling road in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. I did fome PRR in my early years. I still have a string of PRR passenger cars somewhere. I’m in HO, or as some of the wags call it, Horrably Oversize. Stop by the coffee shop if you get the urge.
Paul
The Duluth, Superior, & Southeastern
" The Superior Route "
[#welcome] to the forums… I hope you enjoy your stay here on these forums… these guys (and the occasional gal) know what they are talking about.
so tell us a little bit about yourself… age? Location? Married? Kids? the usual stuff… this is just so we can know you better.
I hope you have fun.
[#welcome] Christov
Will you be using a published track plan or your design?
Welcome to the family have fun.
I’m a seasoned veteran of three months. At the club I belong to, I’m doing PRR and my main motive power is an M1A and E7 both BLI. I just need an SW7 to round it out.
[#welcome] and my congratulations on your choice of a prototype. Though I model Rio Grande standard gauge steam during the WWII era, I’ve ‘borrowed’ several Pennsy locos to help out with the power shortage, a couple of M1’s and a J1 from BLI, and a brass 2-10-0 ‘Hippo’ from PFM. Unique and very handsome motive power, in my opinion. So stick around, any questions you might have as you build your model rr are sure to be answered on the forum–I know the people here have really helped me with my own model rr in the garage. It’s a good group, I think you’ll enjoy them. I know I do.
Tom
[:D]
[#welcome] christov ,Hope You Like our family here ,i myself are modeling a HO layout in my garage ,[(-D]
carl…
Thanks Everyone!! As far as me I am married, 38 years old, with no children. I grew up with trains with my father, however he was into Lionel O gauge. I now own my first house, so FINALLY I can do something I’ve wanted to do for years. As far as my layout, it is my design. I am using two 4X8’ pieces of 3/4" oak plywood at different locations in the garage. They are being interconnected by old workbenches already existing. My main board is almost finished (although they never REALLY are), and my second board I am unsure of at this point. I know I need a wide radius oval for my T1, but from there I will think of something.
Wow oak??!! Might be tough to spike but then All-purpose latex adhesive caulk is the latest and greatest way to lay track.
Then there is the “New School” of extruded foam board. Are you aware of it? It’s easy to landscape.
Seeing that you live where the humidity and temperatures fluctuates, I would suggest sealing the wood with shellac, even if the garage is heated and air conditioned.
Ok a T1, what was that? Something the P.R.R. had, it’s long and articulated, right? Check out NMRA RECOMMENDED PRACTICES
RP-11 Curvature and Rolling Stock
Note: click on the highlited words for links.
Actually, a T1 is a 4-4-4-4 class steamer developed for passenger service by Baldwin. It was a rigid frame and was NOT articulated. Therefore it needs 22" radius minimum turns. These streamlined engines were supposed to replace the venerable K4 Pacific class, but in actuality the K4 was a better locomotive, and they were used until 1957 when dieselization overtook steam.
Welcome to our cyber-family, Christov.
Holy smokes, a 4-4-4-4. Is that an ATL (All Terrain Locomotive), or what?
Did that thing ever sell and run? On standard track?
By the way, you are to be congratulated for owning your first home at your tender age (sorry, don’t mean to patronize…many of us are well past our…ummm… tender years.)
I, too will question the oak choice. Any 5/8" G1S plywood should do you very well if supported no wider than 24" beneath it. Just curious about your rationale.
Glad you joined us!
[#welcome] and a big “howdy” from Texas…this is a good place if you have questions about anything dealing with the hobby…chuck
Welcome aboard
The recommendation I’ve seen for running full-length passenger cars might be of use here - they suggested 30in minimum radius in a fairly recent MR article on close-coupling your passenger fleet. With a T1 I would say that you want the largest possible radius on visible sections and nothing tighter than the 30in for good running. Congrats on the choice by the way - the T1 is a very elegant looking loco. I was looking at the Bowser kit for a while but the BLI is not much more expensive and wouldn’t need assembling, painting and fine-tuning. The only snag is that I can’t justify something that big on an 8x1 shelf layout…
Hey Christov, I just noticed you are in or around Winchester. I’m just south of Purcellville, myself. And every day I schlepp into DC for work.
As I remember, one of the main problems with the T1 was there was not enough weight on the drivers, so they tended to slip. There was talk of rebuilding them to 4-8-4s, but desielization took care of that. They sure looked good, though.