First…Thanks to everyone on this site for the help and information…
I did it…I converted to DCC last night and you guys were right…WHY DID I WAIT SO LONG!!
After reading many many many posts on the subject…what to do…how to do it…which system to buy…I finally purchased a Digitrax Zephyr and a couple of decoders yesterday and locked myself in the basement.
I jumped in with both feet flailing. I installed a Digitrax DH163AT in my Athearn SD40-2 along with replacing the cheesy headlight with real lights and installing a reverse light as well. It took some time since this was my cherry, but it all worked out and I did myself proud I should say.
The Zephyr hookup was easy…too easy. Set up a program track, hooked everything up to the mainline and I was running. I played around with some CV’s and got the headlights doing all kinds of neat stuff! I was acting like a 5 year old at Toys’ R’ Us! My wife said she has never seen a grown man go so crazy over a pulsing light on a toy…oh well…it’s only just beginning dear!!
I took the plunge and I’m glad I did. For those still debating (like I was for 6 months)…go ahead and go DCC, you wont regret it. Now if I can figure out how to put a decoder in my Spectrum FM H16-44 “Baby Trainmaster”.
Which brings up my questioning of this model number. The box says FM H16-44 Baby Trainmaster…but sourses say there was no -44 babyTM…it was FM H16-66, and the H24-66 was the Trainmaster…is Bachmann wrong?
Who cares? You have it, stick a decoder in it and run it. Digitrax has decoders that are small enough to fit in just about anything. If you just want to control the speed, direction and turn the headlight on and off I recommend the DZ125. If it can stand up to an Athearn BB loco, and I can assure you that it can, it will most definately run a Bachmann loco. If you want realistic Effects like ditch lights, mars lights, strobes then the DZ143 will do the job. It’s current rating is 1.25 amps, 2 amps peak.
IIRC the FM H16-44 was a 4-axle roadswitcher that did share some features with the trainmaster line (the H24-66 and the H16-66) in the earlier production runs, but these similarities got cut later on to cut costs in producing them.
The baby Trainmaster was the H16-66, because it was a 1600HP prime mover in the TrainMaster series, as opposed to it’s ‘bigger brother’ the H24-66
Glad to hear your happy! I just switched about 6 months ago and I’m having MUCH more fun now![:)] Now go watch some Youtube videos of trains with sound decoders and you’ll want those too.
Congratulations, John! [#welcome] to the wonderful world of DCC! [^][tup] And I’m glad you’re happy with your Digitrax Zephyr. It will be a very good DCC system for you. And you can easily expand and build upon it - if and when your layout grows.
John, I know exactly what you’re saying about turning into a 5-year old. It’s been over 3 years now since I converted to DCC but I’m still amazed how much fun it has added to my own MRRing experience. No regrets for me…even now that I’m 8. [swg]
You made a great choice with the Zephyr, thats what I started with 5 years ago when I got into the hobby. DCC is all I’ve ever known, lol. I found it very easy to use as well when I first got mine.
Yes, Bachmann is wrong (there’s a shocker). The H16-44 is not the “Baby Trainmaster”. A lot of people call it that because they don’t know about the H16-66.
Me too. I was like a little kid again. I’d been out of the hobby for 40 years, and 3 months or so earlier, I’d set up some trains and started a layout. I found myself with a bit of spare cash and bought into DCC. After half an hour of smiling and playing like an 8-year-old, I powered down the DCC system and ripped out all the DC stuff. Then I brought DCC back up, and I’ve been happy ever since.
Don’t spend too much on decoders until you’ve tried one with sound. After that, for me anyway, they all have to be sound.
Oh yes…sound is next! After checking out sample videos on You Tube and Joe’s site, I gotta have sound…which is why I posted my other questions separately for sound decoder advice…
If you want to really improve things, take the next step. Get a Digitrax MS-100 or USB-Locobuffer, depending upon your coumuter ports and download Decoder Pro (free). Decoder pro will make programing your decoders a breeze; and you can also use your personal computer with Decoder Pro as additional throttles for your Digitrax system.
It depends which DCC system you get. Digitrax and NCE (except for their Power Cab) have a RS-232 port on their systems. The NCE Power Cab now has a USB interface available (purchased separately) for connecting to a computer.
Although I haven’t had a chance to use the JMRI Decoder Pro software yet, I have seen it in action and look forward to using it - i.e. whenever I get me USB interface for my Power Cab. The fact that it’s versatile, powerful, FREE, and well supported is a real plus.
Keep it simple, just get the Locobuffer II USB. Plug a Loconet cable in one side and the USB cable in the other. Loconet will carry the comamnds to the comamnd station. Works like a champ. You’ll then want to go to the JMRI website to get Decoder and Panel Pro.
I use an old Pentium III PC with Windows 98 to run Decoder Pro. I was going to toss it out as Microsoft no longer supports Windows 98. I re-formatted the hard drive and installed the windows 98 that came with the computer; donloaded current edition of JAVA (free) and Decoder Pro (free). This computer has a serial port and I already had a Digitrax MS-100. When the computer dies, I will need to get a USB-Locobuffer.
For Digitrax Systems you plug a Loconet cable into the USB-Locobuffer. Your Decoder Pro/Computer communicates through your Zepher (in my case Digitrax DCS-100) to your programing track and to the layout. Rather than use CV codes on a DT-400 or your Zepher command station Decoder Pro uses drop down windows for you to select the decoder functions you want. Decoder Pro converts these selections to CVs and sends them to your Command Station then to the decoder on the programing track. Decoder Pro allows you to save the file for each locomotive. Sometimes some of my decoders start acting weird. I just take the loco to the programing track; fire up Decoder Pro; and re-write all of the saved CVs back to the decoder.
I never did the “wait” thing. I discovered the wonders of command control right at the beginning with the CTC-16 (about 1979). I instantly saw the advantage of not having all the complicated wiring and having to continually flipping block switches just to keep my throttle in contact with my train. So having that revelation the instant I first saw the system, I am truely curious, as to why others such as your self do wait. Do you not believe all the other people that post messages similar to the one that you just posted? I am not trying to be condesending or smart-alecky, I am truely puzzled with the situation.
I understand the financial aspect, I understand the fleet of 300 locos to covert aspect, but I don’t understand the waiting-to-see if it is something I really want.
That has been my battle cry for years now. Everyone tries to make it so !@#$92##$@ complicated with all this mountain out of mole hill talk out spewing of their great knowledge of power bus, power districts, “DCC friendly” turnouts, which-what is best…blah de blah. Hook two wires from the DCC unit to the track and run the trains.
I am guessing a reference you are using is the 2nd Diesel Spotters guide about page 337. The text on that page would lead one to believe what you have said. First let’s back up a bit and review FM diesel numbering nomenclature. It is easy Hxx-yz.
H = hood unit.
xx represents horse power or 10 = 1000hp, 16 = 1600hp, 24 = 2400hp, etc.
y
I’ve only been back in the game for a year. Call me slow, but I had no idea what DCC was or what it entailed financially or technically. I’m not one to jump into something without researching what I’m about to jump into…
Never heard of the Diesel Spotters Guide…guess I’d better get one…I actually saw that difference pointed out on the web somewhere…I can’t recall where I saw it. I was just wondering if it was a typo on the box it came in or something…