I broke it, can someone here help me (PIC)????

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I was striping down my 4-12-2 Brass Sunset tender. I was removing the trucks and squeezed to hard on the body. I broke off a piece on the right side of the tender. I have no way of resistance soldering it back on. Maybe someone here can do it for me. I can ship you the tender and pay. The places here don’t do that. I really could use the help. I need to get thing painted.

2

I know this may be sacri-ligious to the brass afficionados, but what would stop you from gluing it back on ??? Seeing as how you are planning on painting it, the repair would never be detected. Use some JBWeld for the repair and it would never come loose.

Mark.

3

I’d say to use glue - Not CA however as that can be brittle. If you get one of the Evo-stick impact-type glues these still have a little “give” in them even after they dry, so you won’t have the part falling off from a slight knock. Hope this is of help!

4

I agree. First, though, use steel wool to “clean up” the solder foot print and to ensure that whicheve glue you use gets a good hold on the tender. So, both bracket and tender need to have their previously soldered surfaces cleared of any stuff that might prevent the glue from getting a nice, flat, and scratched-up grip. Be careful not to go outside the ‘lines’, like in colouring. BTW, if you had a soldering iron, you could wick up any solder yourself, and it would be much easier.

Then, I would get one of those slightly more expensive two-part epoxy glues, the ones with the double-syringe, if it is meant to be used on metal.

5

I agree with MarkR. JB Weld is a very good product for this kind of application.
It also has the added benefit of actually looking like an older solder joint due
to its dark gray color. I have done this on a few models where a small part has
come loose. Rather than risk losing the part, I have just gone ahead and done
the ‘horrible’ deed.[:O] Hope this is helpful. (I really need to get a resistance
soldering outfit, myself. I do enough with brass that I need one.[:D])

6

You can add me to the list of those who recommend J-B Weld. I’ve used it successfully on several brass scratchbuilding projects.

7

One question

What is JB-WELD???

  1. Do you have to mix it?
  2. Does the area have to be clean?
  3. Should I use a small clump and just attach it up under the box were it doesn’t show, or make a small line of weld and put it between the box and the tender, like you would if you are glueing a plastic piece on?

Thanks?

8

Check this out.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

Andre

9

I have used the thick gap filling AC to reattach parts on some of my Ebay specials successfully. I have used the Flash AC from NHP(the “slow” drying type 15- 30 seconds) , sometimes you will will have to hold or clamp the part for a couple of minutes, I haven’t had any fall off after gluing (and I can be a real clutz) so it should be pretty safe.

10

JB Weld? Absolutely!

11

The question of where to get JB weld is what I will answer. It can be picked up at your local hardware store, or even a hobby store. If you have any ACE’s or True Value’s near you, give them a buzz.

DON

12

Sounds like that JBWeld product can fix almost any busted brass parts…I’ll have to bookmark that site (thanks!) Good luck on your repair, 8500.

13

I went to 2 local HW stores here and one was Lowe’s. Neither one of them carried JB WELD. I finally stopped at a Auto Parts store and they had it and a lot of other things also. I will use it tonight and let you know.

Thanks For The Help
Michael

14

Solder it. it’s the original solder joint that came loose and you can probabaly re-solder the original seam------- it’s a 2 minute job. what is resistance soldering?? glue?? glue?? on brass?? better to sell the brass and buy a plastic tender.

15

5 minute epoxy

16

JB Weld; Menards has it.

Or Caboose Hobbies does repairs.

17

Boy, this is funny.
Why re-solder it IF THE SOLDER JOINT DIDN’T WORK IN THE FIRST PLACE?
I mean, come on.

Story about J-B Weld (also there is a quick version you can get at NAPA auto parts, done in 20 minutes instead of over 4 hours)…

Many years ago a guy brought a flathead 6 Dodge block in with a wrist pin loose and it had scored the cylinder badly.

Fixed the pin, guy had no money to re-bore, new pistons and rings and such, so we cleaned the groove, J-B welded it, next day honed it out, slapped it together, last I heard it had 10 more years on it and still going strong.

I’ve run into a lot of poor joints on brass, often handrails and grabs butt-soldered instead of holes drilled, insert parts and solder.
First rule they used to teach you in electronics was you need a good, solid mechanical connection before you make a solder connection.

Those who have punched out their own chassis and built 5-tube super-het radios know what I’m referring to.

TOC

18

happy new year

19

As the proud owner of about 40 or so brass locos, I can tell you that either gap-filling CA, 5-minute epoxy or JBWeld is the answer. And nobody’s going to nail you to the wall for it. So go ahead and use whichever you think will work for you best, clean the parts where they fit, apply the adhesive, wait about a day just to make sure that it’s all set and cured, then paint it to your heart’s content. The only time I’ve used solder to repair one of my brass locos is when it’s something electrical (as in making it run) that is wrong. Other than that, I head for the gap-filling CA, or whatever is closest.
Tom [:D]