I just picked up my Q2!

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I just bought it at my LHS, and let me say this is the best HO locomotive I have ever purchased, I am so happy with it, I will be buying a second one.

The whistle sounds just like the real recordings of the J1 and T1, you can quill the whistle, there are several other whistles to choose from on this model. The smoke unit is superb, in my opinion better than MTH’s even. But what has really impressed me the most is the slow speed performance, there is nothing like it! This thing creeps along ever so smoothly.

The brass detailing is out of this world, and the tender is filled with a real coal load. I can’t wait to pick up my second Q2, I’m consisting them! There are even illuminated marker lights on the tender that operate prototypically, and there is a very subtle cab glow that is not in any way overpowering or distracting. The headlight is back to Paragon quality, nice and bright with an warm glow, far superior to the Blue Line lighing system.

Much thanks to the Broadway Limited team for releasing such an outstanding model! I will gladly buy more models of this quality from this company if they keep releasing them.[tup]

This is my first brass train, would love to see Paragon 2 release the J1a and the T1 in this line!

And how about a few consolidations? [:D] Thanks again BLI!

2

Sounds great, just one question, what is the excitement that the locomotive goes very slowly?? a creeping locomotive? what reason would a model railroader want an engine that goes macro- slow and is barely moving? to bring these speeds to actual prototype speed would take some extreme calculations, but you can be assured the real-life speeds of an actual steam locomotive will be a lot faster than an almost backward moving model. When did anyone ever see a live locomotive "creeping " around a station or hauling 3 passenger cars at speed? I believe the concept of railroading was (is) to move certain products long distances as fast as possible, or am I dreaming? This statement is in no way to be interpreted as a belief in having models screaming around a layout like slot cars.

3

After some bad experiences with a few lionel locos I bought recently (from their scale line), I have seen what bad slow speed performance is, its not a pretty sight. The jerkiness and rattling of the engine is so bad at slow speeds that the whole table vibrates and shakes while the loco struggles to have its wheels make even one revolution and you can hear a terrible grinding noise. This is even after lubrication.

The newer lionel o scale engines made within the past 5 years greatly outperform their earliest scale pieces (made around 2000) now, and this problem is virtually nonexistent.

Whether a loco in real life would ‘crawl’ along is another story, but its a blessing that the newer models in HO (and in O) are able to do this. There is nothing worse in model railroading than an engine that violently jerks back and forth while going at slow speeds.

4

rjake:

Congratulations. Though the loco is all wrong for my layout, I’ve got to admit that it’s a very impressive looking Big Lady of an engine. And considering the general price of brass these days, it’s CERTAINLY a good buy!

One question, however. I have heard that the model is a little ‘light’ on its feet–about a 20 car maximum on level track. Is this true? If so, I’d be a little disappointed on the Tractive Effort for a locomotive that size.

Have you tried it out with a long train, and if so, how has it performed? If I remember correctly, Pennsy built those Q’s for both tractive effort and speed.

Just curious.

Tom [:D]

5

Rjake,

The loco is actually set to start at a faster rate than the manual stated. CV2 that controls start up speed is set to 3, if you change CV2 to 1 it will crawl even slower.

6

Thanks Tom, I am actually in the process of switching up rolling stock, I don’t have much right now, traded older stuff off and now I am buying mostly Walthers freight cars when I can find them. (Just bought 3 at the Greensburg Show today for half off. ) So as of right now, I actually don’t have more than 10 cars, so unfortunately I haven’t been able to pull a long train yet. But I will, hopefully soon.

Yes, I too have heard the same as you when it comes to traction, hopefully after the engine is broken in at higher speeds, the traction will improve, of course, I am buying another Q2, so no need for me to worry when I consist them. [:D]

I definately think BLI should release more Brass engines, they are great sellers and they apparently satisfy an important segment of their buyers. They must, because they sell so quickly.

7

Thanks for sharing that. I’ll look into it.

8

Tom, I’ve read about the Q2 being light on its feet but haven’t had that problem with mine. I’ve pulled 30 cars with it on level track. 25 were Bowser hoppers and the rest a mix and all had the standard trucks that came with them. I’ve only got a smallish test layout at the moment with 24 inch curves so I couldn’t crank up the Q2 to go all out but I did get it moving fast enough with that train that I had to slow down for the curves. I’m working on a larger layout and look forward to seeing what it can do there. Werner

9

Here’s a cross post I just put up on the BLI forum:

First off, congratulations. I am VERY satisfied with my new purchase. It seems like every new offering is an improvement. I thought the I1 and K4 were as good as it could get, but apparently not!

Now on to the comments/questions:

First, my front coupler does not have a centering spring. Is that by design? Not a big deal, just curious.

Second, I like the new sound system, paricularly that everything is remappable, and the startup/shutdown is now one button press. I do miss the coupler slack on command, because I use it right as I couple to a string of cars. I do however, like the “arming” concept, although I think I like the QSI slack sound file better.

Third, I have turned off the smoke unit using the physical switch behind the smokebox front, however I still hear what I call the “metalic tick” on power up, until I press F7 twice. Is my switch not working, or is there another way to have this off by default? I don’t see anything regarding this in the manual.

Fourth, The only thing I have changed from the factory config, is the address. This is the first loco I have purchased that did NOT need adjustment of VStart to creep at speed step 1. Good Job!!

Fifth, I like how it is now possible to attach the wiring harness with both units on the track and with the drawbar connected. Just a caution to others that the plug can make a partial connection, and the sound will work, the programming appears to work, but the motor control can be intermittant, and a reset will not fully “take”. Be sure it’s fully seated.

There have been some reports of a lack of pulling power, so I decided to test for myself.

I was able to pull 50 cars (and ran out because most of my rolling stock is put up due to construction) on level track. I was however forced to start the train around two 24" radius curves totalling 180 degrees. The first ten cars are Bowser H21 hoppers with Choo

10

Well obviously you have never watched a locomotive couple to a string of passenger cars that already have passengers on board. And watched how a good engineer eases the loco gently against the cars until the couplers mate without so much as a nudge to that first car.

In a model, slow speed translates into good control for switching and coupling, and, realistic stops and starts, since I’ve never seen a real train take off like a rocket or slam to a stop.

Should you wish to watch such skill you can visit the Strasburg Railroad as soon as their schedule starts this early spring and watch this type of move every hour on the hour all day long. The locomotive runs around the train and couples to the other end, while passengers are unloading and boarding.

Sheldon

11

In order for a stopped train to become a fast train, it must be able to do all speeds from zero mph to…whatever…and to to this realistically, it must be able to start slowly and smoothly. I thought someone with over 3,000 posts here would already know this.

12

Werner:

That’s good to know. I’ve often wondered about pulling power from some of the reviews I’ve seen about current steamers, myself. A few months ago I picked up a Proto Heritage Rio Grande 2-8-8-2 USRA ‘clone’, and the review mentioned that it was a little light on its feet. I actually found it to be a rather substantial puller on my layout (which has a lot of long grades), and as the factory ‘finish’ wore down on the drivers, the pulling power only increased. I’m really satisfied with it.

So it’s nice to know that your Q2 has some pretty ample pull to it.

Tom [:)]

13

It’s interesting what is considered good pulling power on model locomotives.

I was looking through Alvin Stauffer’s Pennsy Power II and came across a photo of an SD9 pulling 69 cars on a transfer run.

One locomotive.

69 cars.

I would think a Q2 should be able to pull 100 at speed by itself, no need for doubleheading, which I doubt would have been done on the full-scale railroad under any circumstances, unless a heavy train needed to be started on a hill for some reason.

Eric

14

Congratulations to the new PRR Q2 owners, I think the engine is great. It looks impressive, at least from the photos! [tup]

My modelling budget (and my layout curves) are too small to allow such an animal. [sigh]

And, living in Europe, buying it online and shipping over the “pond” could be risky/expensive bussines. Maybe next time…

15

Thommo,

here is a link, where you can obtain US outline stuff at reasonable prices, without going through the hassle of ordering and importing from the US.

I found out, that, even with some of the bargain prices you see advertised, this source is very competitive, if you add shipping and customs to the US price.

16

I believe one of the main reasons for developing larger and larger locomotives was specifically to avoid doubleheading, with the intricacies of corrdinated engine control, the associated loss of efficiency per locomotive, and the literal doubling in laobor cost for the second crew.

I don’t believe I have ever seen a photo of doubleheaded Q2 locomotives.

As stated in another thread, I got my out of the box Q2 to pull 50 high quality 40 foot cars on level track starting on speed step 1 around two 24" radius curves totaling 180 degrees. I ran out of cars, so could not test any further.

I am quite satisfied with this performance.

17

I response to the “slow” question:

This is a freight engine. It is not supposed to pull passenger cars.

As stated earlier, pasenger trains also need to start and stop smoothly and slowly.

It has taken the technology and cost of small DC motors and the mindset of the hobby manufacturers a very long time to provide us with model locomotives capable of the delicate and precise slow speed operation necessary to duplicate scale speed switching manuvers and drag freight running speeds.

The trade off, is apparrently that some locomotives are not capable of their scale top end speeds, usually in excess of 60 scale MPH. I for one do not have the room to run at 60 MPH for more than a couple of seconds, even with a layout of 15x19 feet, but I do have plenty of room and desire to operate at scale switching speeds.

Perhaps some of you remember back just a few years ago when nearly all locomotives started at 30 scale MPH, and topped out at about 300.

18

IN RESPONSE TO THE SLOW QUESTION:

Your, and others answered why the big deal about a model going super-macro slow, that being slow enough to hook up to a train of cars and realistically slowly start up, I sort of guessed this may be the reason, my beef was going to train shows and watching a train of 30 cars creep around the layout at speeds almost incapable of movement, it seems they enjoyed the task of seeing just how slow a train would go, I would ask the operator why so slow, and the answer seemed to be “because it can” no other explanation was given other than everyone else does it. So now I know, and let’s speed up (slightly)those trains(not as fast as slot cars)

19

Got mine today. We’ve all heard the good things about this engine, so now, the disappointments.

Can’t shut off the marker lights. When pulling a train, they shouldn’t be on.

Manual says the shut-off switch for the smoke unit is behind the smoke box door, but no instructions on how to open it.

Valve gear is stuck in neutral, the radius rod doesn’t move. Even my Tyco mikado knew better.

Headlight does not brighten gradually with the sound of the turbogenerator starting up, like they did on the earlier Broadways.

No doppler.

Bell sound ends abruptly with the last ring…sounds like someone pulled the plug on the recording.

Pulling power: Can only pull 24 cars up my steepest grade. My Bachmann Chinese diesel can pull 50.

Nice looking engine, though.

20

Ya think?

The PRR Q2 was the most powerful rigid-frame steam locomotive ever built, at 7,987(IHP)* @ 57.4 MPH, and tractive effort (pulling force) of 100,800 lbs. It was also the heaviest non-articulated, with a combined engine & tender weight of 1,053,100 lbs. So yeah, it could pull a measly 100 cars at any speed you need…

  • IHP = Indicated horsepower at the cylinders

http://www.steamlocomotive.com/misc/largest.shtml

Congrats, rjake - a sweet loco. Wish I could afford one…