I just got some track and couplers. The track is Code 83. the couplers were E-Z Mate Mark 2 couplers under shank. I have one engine that is too low but all the other trains are level with each other. What do I do? I also have an older SW1 that the back jump up and down. I think it is because the wheels are too big. Is it easier to change the track or change the wheels or grind the wheels. The wheels also have a lip on the outside of the wheel. What is the for and will that be able to go over switchs?
Thanks
you never said what gauge or engine manufacturer…if it’s an Athearn locomotive then you’re going to have to grind down the coupler mount until it fits evenly with the other rolling stock…they were bad about having low coupler mounts especially on their older blue box locomotives…now, Kadee couplers are the best couplers and if I were you, I’d use them extensively and exclusively…the wheel set?..I have no idea what you’re talking about…your best bet is to replace them with a new set that you can order from the manufacturer or have a good LHS order them for you if you can’t get the parts direct from the factory…i’d advise that you don’t grind anything on a wheel because you’ll get it out of round and then it really won’t work …chuck
It is a Model Power SW1. They have discontinued it. The other engine is about one coupler’s height above the lower one.
You can buy Kadee couplers that that an offset head, the head of the coupler is above or below the centerline of the coupler shank. Look at the Kadee website and they might have a recomendation.
Dave H.
is there a chance that you can put the model power locomotive on a shelf somewhere and at least go with an Atlas, Proto, or an Athearn locomotive?..model power is on the same list as TYCO…it’s really a cheaply made locomotive that has little pulling power and breaks down very easily…brands like the old bachmann, tyco, old lifelike, and model power gave the model railroading hobby a bad name and drove lots of people away from the hobby…chuck
They don’t make sw1’s. Walthers used to make them but they were retired.
Best advice I can give is to buy a Kadee height gauge - they’re not expensive and will solve your coupler height problems. The “underset shank” couplers are intended for locos and cars where the coupler pocket is set too low to use the standard centreset shank couplers (they’re handy if you want to put Kadees on anything other than American equipment too) which may explain the problems. Kadee probably have a neat diagram of how to fit their couplers to the MP SW1 at www.kadee.com which you should be able to use for the E Z Mates as well (though I’d advise buying Kadees in future as the E Z Mates aren’t as long lived and don’t work as well in my experience). Good luck!
PS. judging by your description of the loco it may originally have had traction tyres - is there a groove cut into the rear wheels? If so, you could either try to get hold of the tyres or (my preferred option) pick up a non-running example cheaply somewhere and fit the standard wheels from that in place of the grooved ones. The rest of the donor loco could become a repair scene, or a loco awaiting scrapping.
what do you mean by groove? They have a lip on the back wheels.
There’s a groove between that lip and the wheel flange - the standard wheel profile is supposed to be a slight taper away from the flange (as on the other end of the loco) but by the sounds of it this wheel has a groove for a traction tyre (hence the lip - that and the flange would keep the tyre on the wheel), which has parted company with the loco at some point.
ok thanks I will try what you said out.
atlas makes an S-1, you can purchase it from discounttrainsonline.com here’s a picture of it http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/Atlas-Alco-S1-Rock-Island-599/item150-8806.html
I noticed that the lip is on the left side of the rear truck. The S-1 is different from an SW1