I have tried to get vermiculite here in Sweden but it seems impossible to get the fine grade (less then 1 mm) that Joe suggests in the Scenery clinic. I know that Joe posted a link to a webpage that has this but it will cost me 17 USD for 2,5 liter and I think that is too expensive to cover my whole layout with. So I wonder if someone can help me to get this? I have 3 suggestions:
1 - Point me to a webpage where I can buy this cheap.
2 - I pay someone to buy it for me and send it here.
3 - I buy 1-2 mm here in Sweden and crush and strain it. Is this possible?
Electrolove, we don’t use the ‘v’ word over here any more. [:o)] The stuff has been known to include asbestos, and if it has not been reformulated, is dangerous. Here in Canada, it is no longer used, and buildings that use it for insulation have to be quarantined and made safe before habitation.
I really don’t know why you would want to used that stuff? My experiance with it has been it’s hard to work with,doesn’t take paint or stain well, and flakes off with time.
There are many better terrain forming matterials out there.
Didn’t know it had asbestos in it. That might explain some of my health problems.
Hmmm… Maybe I can sue sombody, get rich and build a bigger layout. Hmmm…
As to the notion that vermiculite contains asbestos, that is false, and I quote:
“Vermiculite itself does not contain asbestos; it was just the Libby, Montana mine which was contaminated because of the presence in the mountain of a secondary mineral called diopside.”
Vermiculite does NOT contain asbestos. That came from a report of mineral contamination that occurred at a Montana vermiculite mine, which is only one of many vermiculite mines in the world. Vermiculite itself HAS NO asbestos and is completely safe.
I mix vermiculite with portland cement and plaster to make a lightweight, tough and “rubbery” scenery surface. It’s easy to poke holes in the surface with a sharp awl or nail, so you can quickly plant trees.
It takes paint readily and is easy to work with. It’s only drawback is it shrinks when setting, so it will crack in places, but you can patch the cracks easily. I find the other properties to be good enough I am willing to put up with the shrinkage.
I’ve tried it but wasn’t happy with the results for the effort. I was frustrated by the shrinking and cracking. I’ll stick to using it ti pot my plants.
What are you trying to use it for? I tried it because it was light and I tried to build moutains with it. Covering built up screen screen, brushing the screen with glue, and sprinkleing it on for texture. every time I tried to paint it or add a tree or somthing, BIG chunks of it would crack off no matter how careful I was. I ripped it down and tries plaster o paris next,( because it’s light) but this did the same thing to a lesser degree.
I finally said heck with the weight and used regular casting plaster (fairly thick) which takes paint and stain very well, and than used Woodland Scenic ground foam to get a texture effect.I don’t think Hydrocal was around back then so I can’t advise on using that
but it seems to be the hot ticket everyones using now. You have to be careful with anything you use. Woodland Scenic offers a few products made for doing this but they can be pricey. Cheap scenery can be expensive in the long run.(to each his own)
Sorry for the misinformation, Electrolove and Joe. We in Canada have pathological aversions to risk, and when the announcement came some time back, the government urged all users to cease doing so and to get tested. In my case, as a member of the Armed Forces, our Married Quarters had been insulated with vermiculite in many cases, so we have permanent letters on file that will permit easy claims if asbestiosis is ever diagnosed among us.
But, from the sounds of some readers, it is all moot. Are you really stuck on using it? Can’t you get any extruded foam or plaster cloth, or sculptamold?
Thanks for answering. No I’m not stuck to anything particular. Just wanted to try it out and se how it looks. But to find fine grade vermiculite here in Sweden is difficult, maybe impossible.
Can you or someone else please tell me a little about plaster cloth? I know that Woodland Scenics have a product, but I can use paper towels in plaster of paris, right?
I f you go to the Woodland Scenic web site you can see the various products they sell .Some are harder for casting purposes, some have a more “vinyl” property to hide joints in your table surface. They show their plaster cloth on it. I know here in the states they will send you a catalog of their products for $1.75 U.S. (better pics than their web site)I’ve never used their cloth personally,but I plan on doing so on my new layout.I’ve heard more good things then bad about it.
Good luck!
EL, sculptamold may be more to your liking, it seems, although I have never used it. I have used WS plaster cloth and I found it to be quite useful if cut into 3X8" strips, with one other overlying layer for strength. I also know that paper towels, J-cloths, rags, old sheets, and others can be impregnated with Plaster of Paris (shoud be available and is very inexpensive) and used…a great many responders on this forum do just that.
The type you wipe your hands with if you get them greasy/dirty. You can use the industrial kind (coarse, but effective…and cheap) or the kitchen variety that are white, with a pattern, and more expensive.
If you could find a supply of what we call J-cloths, that come in large, relatively cheap, rolls, they would be the best, in my view. They’ll certainly cost more than paper because they are made of fiber.
http://www.jcloth.com/ Find the link for ‘everyday towels’. Something like these would be in your local hardware or grocery store…I think.
Yes, no reason why that wouldn’t work. Make up a batch of plaster, about 0.2 litre or less, and have a good idea what you want to do with it beforehand!!! Have your towels handy, and lay them with a 40-50% overlap, at angles if desired. You’ll have between 5-10 minutes before the plaster begins to harden and becomes hard to work with.
Do NOT wash it down the sink or toilet. Scrub out your mixing vessel outdoors, and clean it well. Dirty bowls affect subsequent batches of the plaster.
if you’re thinking of using a plaster gauze or plaster bandage for scenery you might try ans art supply store or medical supply store , it will be less expensive than buying WS from the hobby shop