Hi,
Except for a few locos in a display cabinet, all of my motor units are DCC. On the work/test bench, I have a Digitrax Zephyr which works great for working with DCC locos.
I also have an MRC Railpower 1370 that I used for testing DC locos - especially lubing and tuning them before adding decoders. Well, supprisingly that powerpack stopped working. And so far, MRC is ignoring me - which is quite a surprise as I have been a fan of their products for 50 years.
Ok, back to the zephyr… I know this subject has been beat to death, but I confess I never paid attention to the details. Soooo, my question is, can I use the zephyr to power DC locos/motors on the test bed? If so, what precautions should I take, Etc.?
Thanks all!
PS: The Stewart Santa Fe ABBA consist with the TCS T1 decoders works beautifully! And as expected, those four power units can really pull.
You’re better off getting another powerpack.
It’ll work, but not well, and you won;t be able to get accurate stall current readings. Some newer locos seem to completel ynot work - my 44 tonner caused an instand short using address 00, but it worked fine on a regular power pack, and works fine with a decoder installed. That was the first I’ve come along that wouldn;t go at all. If you just want to see if the loco moves at all, it’s ok, but it’s no proof of a really good running loco. On the other hand, I once had a stubborn Bowser steam loco that someone assembled and painted but never ran. The DC pack I had would not make it go. Ussing address 00 I was able to break the mechanism free and get it to run enough in both directions that now it would run on the DC pack. The strong pulses of DCC were just what it needed to initially get moving.
You select address 00. The direction lever may or may not be accurate, don;t worry about it. Drive the loco back and forth a few times on the test track isn’t going to hurt anything. Do not leave it sitting there stopped however, this will overheat the motor. Take it off the rails or turn off the track power.
Another DC pack is the best option for all testing though.
–Randy
You could use the Zephyr. It supports running an analog loco using address 0. However, doing so may have drawbacks, possibly as severe as burning up the loco you’re testing.
For that reason, I agree with the suggestion that you bite the bullet and get another DC powerpack. Maybe pick up a used one at a show, or on that auction site.
Ok folks, you supported what I thought - that while it could work, it is certainly not best practices.
I will bug MRC until I get a reply, and then either get the MRC repaired or just buy a cheapo Tyco pack off Ebay.
Thank you!
Late to the party, but I’d say you’re making the right call on getting another DC power pack.
Don’t get TOO cheap a power pack - and older cheap rheostat power pack won;t work well with modern HO locos. You almost need an N scale pack i using a rheostat type. The current draw of modern HO locos is much less than older ones and the result is that not enough voltage drop is realized across the rheostat, making the locos take off at full speed, AN N scale rheostat has a higher resistance and may work with newer HO locos - but then put one old Blue Box loco on the track and it will only go slow (and possibly burn up the N scale rheostat). You really want another newer transistor pack like the 1370. Because of the different way transistor packs reduce the voltage to the track, they work for any scale and any motor load (up to the maximum, of course). If you remember back, things like the 501 Throttlepack came in 501 and 501N versions - because the low current N scale motors were not controllable by the HO rheostats. ANd even further back, when people built their own, there were different rhostats for O scale motors and HO scale motors for the same reason. All the modern transistor packs, there aren;t seperate N and HO versions, because it doesn;t matter.
–Randy
Thanks Randy! I picked up another newer Railpower on Ebay yesterday.
Decades ago in the 1970s I had the 501 Throttlepack for the basement layout. It was the best I could afford, and worked great with the old Athearn locos.
What could have gone wrong with the OP’s MRC 1370?
Can it be repaired?
Is there an internal fuse that blew?
Rich
They have a internal circuit breaker to protect against shorts. It could have finally gave out. There are ways to test and repair, but it doesn’t appear that he wants to do that. So His decision to replace it would be fine with me. [:D]
Have Fun!, Be Happy, in Your Power Pack.
Frank
Rich,
MRC does not provide schematics to their packs. So, it is difficult to determine the internal path and values of the pack. If you have a known good unit to compare too, its much easier.
Other than a loose or cold solder joint, odds are it does need a part. However, MRC does not sell parts or boards so now you have to find a suitable replacement.
With the price of used and NOS packs on Ebay…[^o)]
Even though the OP is indicating that he bought a used one on eBay, it still makes sense to salvage the current one if you can.
Can an MRC 1370 be opened up without damaging it in order to inspect it?
Rich
The problem lies in the directional switch, which had to be jiggled for some time to make it work. Suddenly, jiggling doesn’t do the trick. The pack has 4 screws on the bottom, significantly recessed. They are slotted, but the slot is not continuous, so normal screwdrivers won’t work.
I’m keeping the pack, and will take an old screwdriver and cut a groove in the center and get the old one apart. I suspect the slide switch is kaput, and while I likely can’t get a perfect match, it likely can be replaced with most any spdt or dpdt switch that would fit.
But I don’t feel like fooling with it now, and I got a replacement for $18 at auction. Given that I rarely use it anyway, I probably won’t use the new one until next winter, if then.
Other than their odd screws (sometimes reported as a UL requirement, so people don;t open them up and touch the 120VAC wires and shock themselves), this would be an easy fix, new direction switch. Actually, if it still puts out power, but you just can’t reverse it, just hot glue a new switch to the back of the case and wire it between the track output terminals and the track. Don;t even have to open it up!
–Randy
These packs have security screws. The proper tool can be bought if you can identify which type it is. I have done that in the past but I have worked with 120AC and higher voltage over the years. I enjoy repairing things. Possibly some contact cleaner sprayed into the reverse switch might work if the switch is not broke.
Rich
On my Tech 2 2400 and 2500 packs, the security screws use a T 10 anti tamper torx extended shank bit or a T 10 anti tamper torx screwdriver :
No power whatsoever comes out of the dc terminals, and my educated guess is the slide switch just gave out. Until I grind me a driver that will work, I can use it for a pretty nice doorstop.
If it has the other security screws, they can be removed with fine point needle nose pliers.
A switch that should be similar, to that one:
This particular one being a center off.
Frank
Actually on my MRC 1370’s, the screw has a straight slot but blocked across the center.
Maybe you need to take a Dremel to an old screw driver and cut an indentation in the center of the blade.
Rich
Over the years, MRC used all kinds of tamper proof screws. A couple of Tech II’s I have use 6-point stars, that can be removed with a good flat blade scrooge driver. [:D]
Frank