Hi all, I haven’t been around much, work and family have been keeping me busy. But in my absence I found something that took me back to my childhood that I just could not do without. I found a Brand New Fairbanks Morris CF7 on Ebay and got it for like $14 + Shipping. Brand New!!! I was so excited, it was the exact same model that I had when I was a kid circa 1974 and was the first loco I ever owned. I traded my original loco to my cousin for a power supply all those years ago. So when I finally found one and did I mention it was brand new??? I just had to have it.
Anyhow, what I need now is someone to either help me with very detailed instructions or if I can ship it to you to do this I may be willing to do that too, but I need KD’s put on it. I downloaded the instructions from KaDee’s web site but their a little tough to follow. This is an AHM model and I bought the coupler kits for it, but man I don’t think I have the mad skills and tools needed to accomplish this. Not to where it would be functional anyhow LOL
Would anyone be willing to help me. I haven’t checked with the LHS, but I’m pretty sure they won’t do something like this.
I’m guessing what you have is an old AHM Fairbanks-Morse “C-Liner”. CF-7’s are old General Motors F7 “covered wagon” diesels that Santa Fe converted to road switchers (and were later sold to many shortlines and industrial users).
Sounds like you have an old AHM FM ‘C-Liner’. Kadee suggests a #31 for the pilot, and a #37 for the rear of the unit. Here is the Kadee web site with the conversion info:
David was right, it’s not a CF7, it’s the AHM C_Liner. Sorry for the mistake. Still need help with couplers though!!!
Ok, if you read my post and I’m done getting abused for not describing the right model, [:)] can somone help me out here? Like I already mentioned, I got the info I needed from KaDee’s web site on what couplers to buy, which I did. But the directions on how to mount them are a little out of my league at this point. I’m looking for real help here so if you can’t give real help please refrain from posting something someone else has already posted or the fact that I need #37 and #31 sets from KaDee. I just need help on how to mount them, tips, tricks, etc…
Sorry if I sound like a goof, but when I see replies to my posts I’m expecting to see something that will answer the question I posted.
Thanks to those who have posted already, it’s kind of hard to get help with something that you don’t give the right description to huh?
How’s your relationship with your local train shop? A lot of them actually can help you out with this sort of thing, if they’re really train shops and not simply general-purpose hobby shops. The best of them will show you how to remove the shell and the old coupler, and then point out where you need to drill the holes for the Kadees.
Yes, I think this is better than doing it for you, even for free. Coupler upgrades and repairs will be needed time and again as your railroad grows, and developing that skill will prove more valuable in the future than just getting one engine done now.
I probably should at least ask, no harm in trying huh? Maybe I’ll take it over there Saturday and ask them if they can either do it for me, or help me out. I only know those guys a little. They seem like a pretty good bunch of guys and there’s always people hanging out in the shop so even if they can’t do it, maybe they know someone who can.
Or, I can break down and get the tools I need to do this with, small files, drill and tap set for #256 screws? Is that right? And just take my time. Time, now that’s funny!!! I have none.
That’s a great idea. Most of us can’t resist a challenge like that. Pull out a mechanical problem, and a bunch of guys will always cluster around offering suggestions.
If there is a model RR club in your area you might try there as well. I haven’t seen the AHM FM C-liner in a long time. so can’t give you the information on mounting couplers. When mounting couplers allow for access should a coupler need repair/replacement. Also with Kadee couplers be sure to set the coupler hight with the Kadee gauge. DON’T- DO NOT even consider the Kadee imposters that claim to be as good as Kadee. They are all substandard IMHO. I junk the couplers that are in the kit when buying a new railcar.
FIRST OFF (as you’'ve heard) there vwas no such thing as as a 'Fairbanks Morse CF-7,.Secondlyly , you ask for help from us to GUESS what you have?.
Ask this from whom you’ve bought it…THEY would know…
WHILE you’re at it inquire what gauge and make it is - and does it have a 'snow plow ?
THEN contact Kadee for their recomendation,. They have a computer, but a phone call is faster… Ask for Sam (I think is last name is Clark).
I had a CF-7 from Athearn and I used a standard #5 but with the coupler lid upside down or remmoved to remove the lip - , as the centering screw was off center and wouldn’t let the coupler move freely. I don’t.recall a snow plow.
If you’re a ‘Newbie,’ I’'d suggest buying fom a retail store, untill you get your feet wet. THEY would know what you bought and how best to advise you…Anything bought ‘USED’ corries with added risk.(no warraties).
The 30 series Kadee’s attach to the locomotive with 2-56 machine screws. You have to drill and tap a hole in the bottom side at each end. A good hardware store will sell you the 2-56 tap and matching twist drill. Use something sharp (an awl or a center punch) to make a tiny dimple in the metal to guide the drill. Use a pin vise to hold the twist drill and drill with it. The frame of the locomotive is a soft metal casting and you can sink a deep deep hole in a just few minutes by hand. Then tap the holes. Put the tap in the pin vise, and lubricate it with just about anything (3 in 1 oil, grease, motor oil, butter, anything works). Start the tap and go forward a turn or two and then back it out to clear the chips, and go forward again. If you tap straight thru, the tap will get stuck hard and then break off when you force it free.
With the holes drilled and tapped, assemble the coupler, the box, the lid, that dinky little spring and the spring lid onto the machine screw and thread the scew home. Be careful not to drop teeny tiny parts on the floor lest they disappear for good.
When in doubt use the plastic screws to make sure the coupler is electrically insulated from the metal chassis. Lubricate the coupler assembly with powdered graphite, which hardware stores sell to lubricate locks. Adjust the screw pressure properly, if the coupler won’t swing from side to side the screw is too tight.
Assembling a 30 series Kadee coupler is very tasking to say the least. The way I assemble one is to skewer the spring with a cooking skewer of about 3/16 inch in diameter. I skewer the spring with the little “L” shaped ends pointing up then slid the spring to the other end of the skewer. By skewering it, it expands the spring and gives me a way to hold it with my “FAT” fingers while I align the “L” shaped ends with the holes in the coupler housing so I can get it into place without loosing it. Once the spring is in place I use a second skewer to hold it down gentle in place before removing the first skewer then place the coupler lid on the coupler box. Once assembled I use a small Phillips screw driver pushed thru the mounting hole and a small flat screw driver to pickup the assembled coupler. Next I use a pair of hemostats to hold the coupler assembly and remover the Phillips screw driver then insert the plastic mounting screw. And mount the coupler while still holding the assembly with the hemostats.
This assemble trick saves me a lot of [soapbox] LOL
I just had to have it.