I am using atlas switches on parts of my main line and it is just not working. I have tried everything and they are not consistent. I can run train for hours then get a hour of derailments. I need to replace the high traffic areas with better switches. I do not know what is meant by #4 or #6 switches. Please educate the ignorant before I go insane.
I can give you the basics, but hopefully someone will chime in with more details.
The number’s of switches-4, 5, 6, 8, etc, refer to the radius of the diverging curve- the size of the curve on the track that switches off to the left or right side of the striaght track- The larger the number, the broader-larger- the curve.
Number 4’s are used in areas that don’t have lots of extra space, the track that curves off will be a tight curve. 6’s are a wider, gentler curve, and take up more space being that way.
Some folk have very good luck with Atlas #4’s, some prefer the larger curves for a smoother transition. Others don’t care for Atlas, and go with Peco, Kato, Shinohara, etc. The main draw of Atlas is their price, I use them and out of dozens of switches, I had a few that caused problems.
On the MR home page, look for FAQ’s or somrthing along that line, and you might find someone who has dealt with this problem.
Hope this helped.
Hmm, also known as Turnout Training. [:)]
I assume you are using Atlas “Snap Switches”? They are the low budget Atlas turnout. The numbered turnouts are of better quality I believe. In any event often turnouts, especially the less expensive ones often need a good deal of fine tuning to work flawlessly. Below are some links that may be helpfull.
Yeah they are the snap switches and I should have never have bought them. This really chaps my hide. [C):-)] I will keep them on my rail yard do to slow movement seems to help but the main lines switches will be scrapped! i will investigate the Peco and other brands. Thanks for the help you have given. I will begin to fix this problem very soon.
Actually, the number refers to the amount of units required to diverge one unit. Ie, the #4 switch requires 4 feet to diverge 1 foot, a #8 requires 8 feet to diverge 1 foot…etc. It does not refer to any radius in any-way-shape-or-form (the diverging route is STRAIGHT, not CURVED). If you were using an Atlas snap switch or European PECO switch, then, yes, it has a diverging radius.
David B
It just seems a little odd that you say they work fine for hours and then you start having problems and immediately assume it’s the Atlas turnouts???[%-)] Did you check your wheel gauge? Your coupler height? Are you having temperature changes where your layout is? Is it the same cars and locos that always have problems? SOMETHING is changing to cause the derailments. Turnout derailments can be caused by bad track 3’ away from the suspect turnout.
I’d do a little more investigating before I started ripping out turnouts.[2c]
GTX:
Please educate me first. At present you are the one with all the data.
What sort of problems are you having? How are the derailments occurring?
I use the Snap-Switches and some clones and they work for me. Tracking problems can be with the switches or the equipment or both. Your problems don’t really sound like switches, or only switches, to me.
Do your cars have truck-mounted couplers? These often derail when backing, esp. at the head of a heavy train.
Are your wheels dropping between the rails, or climbing out over them? They may be out of gauge, or the treads may be too narrow.
I want to help you out, but I need GTX railroad schooling first.
When my engines go over the atlas snap switch two things seem to happen, the trix engine will short out everytime it passes through the switch. The bli engines do not do have this problem but they have the issue of the front set of guide wheels will sometimes get diverted off the track and will not follow the switch correctly. I have spent time to be sure my track work is level and the tracks are smooth with no bumps. I do know the Atlas switch sometimes splits so the engine does not have any where to go but to derail. I was thinking about buying one peco switch and just do a comparison and run some trains to see what happens. I only have three atlas switches in high traffic areas so the conversion would not be to expensive. The trix engine is having issues i think do to the short wheel base and i read in other places shorter trains like switchers and etc have issues with switches. I have not bought anything yet so I am still investigating. I have a tendancy to want my trains to run perfectly but that does not mean that this could be my fault and not atlas snap switches. I am using code 100 track and have no issues with the rolling stock on the switches or the couplers. My engines at very slow speed will switch correctly or pass the switches without fault. The trix engine always gets a bump up when crossing to another track on the switches. Sorry of I do not make sense but i am new at this. I do have the power before and after the switches with my feeder wires.
What size engines are you trying to run through these snap switches? Big steam wouldn’t do that well on them. Code 100 are pretty bullet proof.
How are you operating your turnouts? Atlas turnouts require that a switch machine be attached, whether it is one that comes in the package or something obtained separately. Without a switch machine attached, the points can move unexpectedly, thus causing derailment.
When you have an electrical short, is the locomotive trying to move through a turnout that has been thrown against it? Metal wheels can cause a short by pushing aside points that have opposite polarity from what the locomotive expects when operating in a given direction.
Check the points connection to the throwbar. Occasionally one will get knocked loose and cause all sorts of problems. Be sure the point rail is properly attached to the throwbar. Be sure the point rails do not wobble from side to side when rolling stock passes over.
Let us know what you find.
I have Atlas turnouts in an under-layout hidden staging yard.
One of the #@%%$ turnouts often derails cars but NEVER when I pull the yard out (the layout is modular) and test it to fix it.
I spent quite a bit of time putting the yard together and tested it extensively and had no problems. Only when it’s tucked under the layout does this happen. And of course, it’s one of the furthest turnouts in from the edge.
The biggest problem is that I glued the track down; I usually use nails. Replacing the thing is going to be a huge hassle.
Thank you for indulging me and my crabbing.
On that note, those Atlas switch machines with the soft plastic actuators often leave a switch with the points hanging out between the rails.
Thanks alot guys. I am running large steam and all kinds of stuff. I have a yb6 that does not like my atlas snap switches. It will derail if the switch has moved from traffic i suppose. I have 2-8-2, 4-8-4, 2-8-8-2 and some german stuff too. I only have the atlas switch setup with no motors just what came in the package. I like the Atlas switches in my rail yard but i am not liking them on my main lines. I am still doing some testing and watching the trains go over the switches very closely. I am thinking about doing some peco switches in my main line and keep the atlas snap switches on the rail yard since they work well at slow speeds. I also want to try the circuitron tortoise on the peco switches for the main line. Everyone I know swears by them. My layout is still very new so I can pretty much live and learn as i go. I will go to the train show next weekend and see if there is some deals on the parts I need. I want to test a peco against a atlas switch purely for grunts and grins.
thanks
Snap switches work better with short steam. (0-6-0, 2-6-2, 4-6-4) and 4 axle deisels. If you want to run large steam, you need to re-think things. Minimum #6 turnouts.
(probably should have mentioned the large steam in the first place)